Rad

Once the fire closure is cleared, I would think you can get by without an ax. I did this route in early August a few years ago and we didn't have to touch snow. We stashed bikes below Burgundy and biked back around to our car to save some miles.

Lovely. We were on a family backpacking trip that weekend around Stehekin and the weather was perfect. Thimbleberries are the bestest!

Thanks for the enthusiasm. Most folks here are just as stoked to see pics and read about your (mis)adventures on 5.8 trade routes as read about 5.12R FAs. So please share your via TRs. They're a way of transporting us from our desks/couches into the mountains. Climb on!

@JasonG that's a powerful tale that says a lot about you and Tim as well as TJ. RIP.

My view is that there are different kinds of protected areas, and that all of these have value: 1 - High use areas concentrate impact, are carefully managed, may be crowded, likely have limitations on spontaneous access. Examples are overnight permits in the Enchantments. Some have tons of facilities, like Yosemite, some are in the back country, like Enchantments or Grand Canyon. 2 - Medium use. Trails, trailheads, parking, forest service roads, and a variety of parks. See medium use, have some facilities, often have areas of high use within them and areas of less use. Examples, Blue Lake Trail and climbing around WA Pass, Mt Rainier climbing and hiking. Trails along the I90 corridor. 3 - Wilderness. This is the most protected, where people are visitors who are not to remain, protection is more important than human use. Examples: designated wilderness areas. There are climbing and other adventures available in all three of these. Some need more advance planning than others. Learn the rules, follow the rules, and let's behave like a civil society rather than a bunch of selfish idiots. This will improve/maintain good relationships with land managers who have the power to limit/increase our access to the natural places we love.

Wow @JasonG, it looks like instead of rolling the dice you were climbing them.

Nice Scott. I was gassed when we did that track in 19 hours C2C. Ropes and trad gear slow things down apparently, but I'm not willing to go without them. Jornet fans should check out this piece in UKC from his recent record there: Peak running record by Jornet in the UK

There's an outstanding bivy at the base of the wall that should still have some water nearby. Flat. Great views. Close to your route. And you walk past it on the way down so you can stash gear if needed.

Lovely adventure and TR. Thanks for posting!

A well known local climber, who shall remain nameless here, was confronted and ticketed by a NOCA NPS ranger for not having a permit. He thought he didn't need a permit and explained that to the ranger. He was ticketed anyway and went to court to contest it. The judge not only didn't waive the fee but quadrupled it because the climber clearly didn't understand the message of why he was being ticketed and needed to be taught a lesson about respecting authority. I don't know whether this person technically needed a permit or not, but his attitude landed the first citation and its subsequent doubling.

Nice looking rib there. And giant trees Tim's Jalapeno chips. Mmmmm

Thanks for posting. Note to self: don't be that dad!

My daughter was born on the solstice, so I'll be celebrating her birthday!

Sweet! Impressive on many fronts. Thanks for posting the TR.

Go get it and put up a report!

What do you mean by snow-free? There's a glacier at the base. You mean the rock? It's probably clear after this heat wave. I bet this is a great time to go get Goode, wish I could be there myself, though creek crossings may be cruxy.

Anyone know this guy or know anything about his whereabouts? If so please contact NOCA NPS. See more in this brief article on the search

Nice TR. Thanks for posting. It's smart to go up there when snow is still covering a lot of features, like that gully in your photo. When those melt out they'll be unpleasant at best, dangerous in many cases, and downright impassable at worst. Challenger solo in a weekend? That's a lot of ground to cover and a big glacier as well. Be safe, have fun, post more TRs! Cheers, Rad

No TR. GITM was an interesting rappelling adventure because it's quite overhanging in places.

Great question. In our case, we got off route after about 5 or 6 pitches and ended up rapping the route through the night. That's not the desired finish or descent!!

We approached this route via Stuart Lake and Horseshoe Lake. No bushwhacking at all. I'd suggest you pick up a copy of Blake Herrington's book for all the beta you need for this route. Cascades Rock Guidebook

You might want to talk to guides about what their life is like before you sell all worldly possessions to go become one. It's a long road to get there, and it might not be what you envision.

This works unless you have a user name like mine that appears in the text of many trip reports.

An excellent read. Thank you for linking the primary source. Two quotes stand out: First, the Court acknowledges that, "The climbing community appreciates the inherent danger of the sport and is perceived to value the individual freedom of a backcountry experience." and this ruling in many ways upholds the right of climbers to preserve that freedom. Second, the closing sentence makes me smile: "The record in this case may have been more helpful to the court had both counsel devoted more time and effort developing the facts and less time and effort squabbling with each other"