dmuja

Stopping on the "nose" of the DC for any reason can be a deadly mistake due to rock fall from above. You should get well up on the spine before pausing imo - there are some slightly sheltered areas up there but as CBS said aluminium crampons should be fine (this time of year) but with a little wear on them.

These suggestions so far are funny. Why don't you take him cragging first before you scare the shit out of him on exposed multipitch. Not that he couldn't do it, but jeeze, if the guy (55yo btw) has never climbed before, give him a taste first..

As far as I know, (second hand info only) at least in the past, a certain guide service on Rainier would leave clients -alone if need be, but with a sleeping bag or such- above the DC and pick them up on the way back down. My guess is that this would be in good weather only though. Again, its just what I heard a while ago so maybe someone else could correct this or inform me otherwise.

well... you know... we fight for our leads at each belay

For TR Solo, Ive only tried various knots, hitches, a rigged belay device, a Gibbs #2 ascender (which cuts the rope at 2000 pounds of force supposedly) and the P Microcender (my latest preference). Anything that stops you quickly however puts alot of force on the rope (ie, the surer the grab, the harder it is on the rope, the bigger the forces encountered etc..) so avoid slack maybe even weighting the rope with a sack of rocks to keep the device level with you. I avoid anything with teeth made for grabbing the sheeth of the rope, or anything that looks like it could easily pop off the rope. The P Basic fails on both counts. Prolly the best devices however are the Soloist or the Silent Partner. There used to be a good web page out of the UK with test beta on various systems for TR soloing...maybe google? JMO

Found it... Thnx

http://www.acmeclimbing.com/browseproducts/Petzl-Microcender.html

There are only 2 climbers in the world. One has never fallen. The other is baby Jesus.

Monsieur Noggin, Yul fwends weel be safe, I am ciltan of eet.... if zay doo not fall! Zay ahr climayaz ahr zay not? In Fwench, oui say "climbing iz zee ought of naught fawling" Zoes zhat fawl becawz zay have enjoyed too much "le ought of fawlink on le bolt" oui call zem "le fawluers". Zayer ahr too many of "le fawluers" and not enouf "le climayaz" oui oui?

Just wunderin what the parking conditions at Blue Lake TH are like right now? Lot open? and # of spaces? Any other helpful beta, route conditions etc.., for SEWS or Liberty Bell is appreciated. Lookin for this weekend if the weather breaks good. Hoping for some snow cover still. Thanks, D

The best rock climber is the one who does not fall off the rock. The one who falls off the rock is the best "faller" ("falluer" in French).

Because Infinite Bliss is an "Infinite Debate" taking place within every individual climber. We all always struggle inside with ethics and style etc. On occasion the debate manifests outwardly via the extremes. I must say though, all this could be solved if everyone adopted the "no fall" rule. If you can't climb it without falling, don't. If you climb it and fall off, assuming you live, youve failed, on this day, on this route, youre a fucking loser, period. Just accept it go home! Take a psychic shit, practice some more bouldering and gym climbing and try again some day in the future. Bolts (even run-outs) make falling ok. Its not. Falling is falling, not climbing. The better you get at not falling, the less protection you have to have, the less "impact" you have on the rock (pun intended). Its really quite simple if you think about it. There are too many bolts out there, I fucking hate them. On the other hand, I climb bolted routes and enjoy the experience. See, I still can't resolve the fucking debate my self!

At the crags, it seems like there are more and more people climbing routes ropeless, and climbing "relatively" serious (ok, "+5.9") stuff to boot. Yes I know free soloing is as old as climbing itself, but Im just noticing a trend I think. Anyone else think so? (I don't mean bouldering btw) So, is this where climbing is headed? Will using ropes and pro soon be looked at the way many presently view aid gear & style? Just curious what others think..

In addition to above advice.. my "cure all" for elbow/forearm pain (muscle and tendon "soreness "- not torn btw). Stop, adjust around, or cut back on the weight lifting if your doing any. However, I don't like to be sidelined and have found that rest alone will not improve my elbow/arm pain. Before training/gym climbs, soak arm in hot water, apply tiger balm (not essential but I like the stuff), massage, do easy warm ups, stretch. After climbing, soak it in hot water, intense massage, more hot water, stretching, more massage. Apply Tiger balm and massage in and then use a vibrate thingy (the sort of thing girls might own but claim its only for their sore shoulders or something). Wash off the stinky T balm and then do the RICE treatment. A Frozen wet sponge with an ACE bandage rap for 30 min works great. You can toss in a Ibupro or Naproxin if you wish. If Im in pain , I do this treatment whether or not I climbed that day. Ive found that a good time to do the above is right before I go to bed. After a few days of "treatment", my pain will often go from an 8 down to a 1 or 0. Now add some light therapeutic weight lifting of various types into the mix... When you feel up to it again continue climbing and training as usual. - I make no claims of effectiveness other than what works for me. If youve got something more seriously damaged then thats another story.

".then she said that hiphop is going to change the world.." Ok, the other day I met this dude who is a professional break dancer. He actually makes a living at it but he has to travel all over the rest of the world to do it. He told me that break dancing only "died out" in America, and thats its still big shit - along with hiphop culture- thoughout much of the rest of the world. Who'd a thought? So maybe we'll finally win their hearts and minds through rap. I mean, you gotta always look to the young (younger than me) for whats really happening next..

I likes Bill, 'sept when he got stuck on that Joseph Campbell neo-spiritual psycho babble crap for a while

"people coming up from Mexico and Central America seem to be pretty tolerant." They percieve themselves generally as powerless right now so they have to be tolerant. Once they achieve critical mass they will be indignant assholes like the rest of us. America is a delicate ballance of freedom, power and fear. It works better in some ways than any other place on the planet - politically speaking. As Ivan pointed out a while back, one of the good things we got going for us is a tradition of immigration and assimilation of some basic values. As long as those basic values are not fucked with too harshly the great experiment will continue. Right now though were being tested by 2 extremes, Bush..ism and Binladen..ism imo.

"HELLO CLIMBER FRIENDS I THOUGHT ISLAM WAS A RELIGION NOT A RACE OR CULTURE?" Ask Arabic muslims that question. Much of what gets pushed and adopted all over the world as "Islam" is Arabian culture.

"intolerant majority in a democracy?" depends on what they decide to "intolerate" They, (we) must decide what they are about as a society and keep to those BASIC values. It could go like Germany in the 30's or the other extreme I suppose, but understanding clearly what you or the newly arriving cultural influences are about is KEY to maintaining those values and thus heading off the extremes before they overwhelm the society. Standing behind a veil (pun intended) of "Im so tolerant and accepting of all cultures" etc.. is like climbing Hood while ignoring the weather forecast.

I think JB is trying to point out an "apparent" irony in Bill Moyers (liberal) doing a show on the rise of intolerant Islamic radicalism within a tolerant liberal society. I agree with JB in this case, sort of. Im a lefty, not a liberal, therefore I don't tolerate intolerance the way liberals do. "Tolerance" btw is stupid term that certain "liberals" (another over and mis-used term) and many left leaning people buy into until it bites them in the ass the way radical Islam may end up doing in the long run. Personally, I know and actually am quite fond of many muslim people - but I fucking can't stand their demented belief system any more than I can any that of say fundamentalist Christians. I might love the people, but I will neither accept nor tolerate their twisted religion or repugnant, misogynistic practices and brain washing.

"...Embodying the high end at base camp this year is the "Tiger Dome," a white double-insulated structure that offers a cozy respite for members of the Himalayan Expeditions (or HiMex) team. Inside, HiMex clients can warm themselves near a wood stove, sip a cocktail, gaze out through transparent panels at a panoramic view of Everest, or sit on chairs and couches and watch movies on a widescreen plasma television...." http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/nationworld/2003716805_everest22.html Shut'r down for good, and ban that name from this board forever as well - the way "D*a*n* the man"s name has been expunged

Doctors kill thousands of people every year with their "mistakes". Own your health!

Godamn Mr Beckey is an inspiration! Well done!

update 5/21 Ok, who the fudgepack left their draws all up the south face?

With quality threads like this one, why would anyone think this site is a joke? glassgowkiss, maybe a shrink can help with the obvious anger management issues that seem to pervade so many of your posts. Have a nice day at the beach or something...