ketch

I agree Arches has some sweet lines. They have a real no-nonsense climbing plan and have been very open to climbers when I have visited. Some of the rangers have even been good about pointing some good new places out. Their regs have for years said plainly "no climbing the named features" I would admit to looking at the same arch and drooling myself. But, restraint so far has been tempered by a good relationship with Larry. Even so, I envy you Dean. Great line.

I'm going to get a trip report together in the next day or so. But when I was just up in that area (across the river though) there was fair amount of snow starting at 2000' and by 2100' it was time to walk. It was not melting out real quick but I could see where a couple days would make it much easier.

I agree with Ade on this. Using French Technique is helpfull in saving the calves. I currently climb in Scarpa Freny XT's which are plenty flexible but I still like saving the calves for last. CBS, as to your question I usually do transition to front points quicker. I do also keep the French in reserve. On a longer piece that I need to keep moving on, switching technique around keeps differant muscle sets in use. Frieh you could heel hook if you want but dont try Pied Assis (the rest position where you sit on your heels facing down hill) the spurs get a little caught up.

So, if you load a camelback with beer, then give it a shake do you get a beer hoser or a drink sprayer?

That would be correct. If you are trying to match something like that. If it is going to have an interesting twist or slope than try to orient the board appropriatly.

What Bronco said. Just put a board and stakes on the sides of the drive if you are trying to match that line. Pour it right up to the asphalt. Oh and if yu want to match the asphalt order the concrete with lamp black and it will be real close in appearance.

If that picture was of Brett with a wild hair in the ass I don't think it's a dude.

Here's a couple that are more specifis to the obliques and the smaller stabilizers. Offset straight leg situps. Brace your feet with the legs straight. Hold a dumbell with both hands at your chest. lower to "down" then hold thew dumbell to one side as far out asyou can keep both hands on. Raise, transfer weight to opposite shoulder, Repeat and transfer at each "up". Oblique twists. brace feet with knees slightly bent. Hold a dumbell with both handsat arms lengthin front of chest. Recline to where you can maintain. Rotate upper body to one side as far as possible. return to center and then rotate opposite. The farther back you recline or the farther you extend the weight either increases difficulty.

Not directly gas price related. That is a factor though, I have made a couple early trips and having looked at some of the hills I havn't done and some I want to go back to. Plus the shorter access I have pretty much decided to spend most of my alpine time this year in just what I can access between 20 and 530. Of course there is that trip to the city, and one or two to smith and a possible in the olympics, and a possible Bugs. But those are partially Gas dependant.

I recently had a bunch of cams redone by Yates. They do good work and are quick on the turn around. Many of them I had redone in a double sling similar to what Dmm uses. They won't do this on small single stem units. So the camalots stay single but the Aliens are now double. Only had one chance to climb since they came back, so far it was a good move.

Just take up liven in your then you have all that nice yard by the highway to enjoy and built in traversing walls in many places for your enjoyment too.

I don't know about herding cats, but keep me posted. If I can make it to a B'ham pub club (you hamsters do have those don't ya?)I've got a great story about getting my ducks in a row.

You post some good reasons Franko. Especially since I think most PNW climbers live close to sea level but venture out. I think the first item is to get acquainted with the signs of various altitude disorders. I do not know of anyone that has died from altitude that did not also ignore the signs. Next the extra day thing is about all it takes. For most people going to 14k from sea level in a day is unreasonable and two days is sometimes challengeing. Around here just do the approach and climb on seperate days and enjoy the climb. Especially with new folk most of them are not into the car to car dash. By the time they are, you will already know how they respond to altitude. If wer'e talking time with the daughter you definatley can find better ways to spend the money.

Lest this thread turn into a copy of the RC.com link referenced. I for one am waiting on the day when harnesses come with airbags and heads up route displays. Belayers should also be equipped with autobelays so they don't need to actually touch the rope. As long as we just bolt all the rock sketchy placments are not a concern. While we are at it replace em all with 3/4 stainless and we won't even need to equalize.

Yes gslater I have experienced challenges with GPS that were weather related. I can not name models off the top of my head but two of them were Garmin units one was a Magellen. It does take a signifiant amount but it does happen. Even when it is not completley lost the signal can be degraded to where position reliabilty is not as good. As to the big rock thing, think large face, if you are at the base you can loose up to half of the sky. If you are in a deep canyon more than half, and hope you never try one from a crevasse or severly restricted sky. Point being that GPS only works well if it can see 3 satelites and preferably four, If a large solid object impairs your view of the sky it don't work so good.

Timy you are right, but you know I can't read TomToms reply without . Here is another hint 1/2 of 2000 =1000, 1/4of 2000=500. I hope you see a pattern here. I would strongly recommend gettin this straight before you try to use your GPS. My experience is that substantial cloud cover, or snow, or a big rock, or ??? can interupt signals enough for the GPS to not be reliable. All the cool toys are nice. I've got some of them but, if your map and compass skills suck there will likley be a day when you are screwed. PS. They make the fancy cards with multiple scales for people that don't want to think on their own or don't want to spend the time. PM me if you want to know an easy way to fashion your own scale for whatever map you might have.

So here is the report. I pretty much settled on a bike. I had a day yesterday so I loaded four days worth of stuff into a pack and did a couple abandoned roads. One of them was 6 miles long and had a section where there was 2000' of verticle in 3 miles of road. What I learned (1) with a pack on saddle position and weight position needs more work. (2) on the downhill if you relax on the brakes while still in the steeps, the acceleration is amazing. (3) on the long descent I really liked the disc brakes. (4) On the steep stuff, when you finally get to lowest gear and are tempted to get out of the saddle, you might as well get off and walk. (5)On the decent having full suspension was a definate plus. (6)This mountain bike approach stuff could be a real blast. I'm starting to plan a trip already. Thanks for all the input. By the way I did end up with the Kikapoo Deluxe.

I'll give you a hint. In UTM, "U" stands for universal. The location does not change due to map scale.

I know of some other type athletes that use simulators to enhance performance. I don't know that they help in the hills as the only way to gain in climbing or slogging when in up ther is to actually excert effort under the same conditions. This is where the simulators fall flat. (unless of course you rent a hyperbaric chamber for a while and then move in your climbing wall, Oh wait that would be a problem too )

Probably won't ruin your trip. The trip from the gate is about 9 miles of pleasant stuff to the top. According to the DOT there is 5' at the gate, close to 10' for much of the highway, and 45' in places at the pass. I would imagine they will be at it a while. My .02 is go for it.

Don't let CBS get a swell head for being right. That recipe says to add gin to the GU if you are using certain flavors.

Hmmmm, you aren't a female Llama by any chance ? I wouldn't worry too much, I don't think Fred has a thing for female Llama's.

Larry, Thanks I called the shop and the unit they have is the Kikapoo Deluxe which also has the Propedal lockout. I guess the trick is to pedal nice and rythmic not stand and step on them and it works well so I was told.

Thanks all for the input. Will, very good stuff and it seems like indeed full suspension is the way. Mike, Ya missed the point brother, I am the one who's old and I don't feel like gettin beat to shit. But really that is pretty much whats happen. I'm tall enough that I need a large frame. A local shop has a rental unit that doesn't move much as it is too big for most so he just wants to get it off the floor. So it seems I'm going to take single track now.

So it seems that more of the stuff I am doing, the roads stop a bit short. I am starting to look for a Mountain bike for those approaches. I am am gettin into the fun issue. Over the weekend I did a ride with a 45# pack on a full suspension bike. The extra cush was nice for the bumbs wearing a pack. I am told a hardtail bike is more efficient for the uphill stuff though. So here's the questions; For you that use a bike on approach or just getting to the trail head, do you recomend hardtail or full suspension? Also I have located a sweet deal on a full suspension bike, If the deal is pretty sweet are the differences worth passin up a deal? Of course I am open to any other input that is relavant as this use of a bike is new to me.