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The thread is about bashing Lambone. I can't quite do it. Like Oly I feel like discussing it is worth doing but maybe on a differant thread. Any one that feels like they can make the decision here and now from the comfort of home has not done this enough. The more I go out the more apparent it is that making the best decision you can with the info you have in the place you are works. However, that is seldom the "perfect" solution.

I am from that same generation. I also have I think a couple various eights at home. If there was a need I could dig them out. But for normal use I never count on it as a backup. Most of the time have a few biners that get more use for the weight carried and if I'm out of biners (save one) a munter works good. If you are counting weight it seems that they weigh the least.

Depends a little on how well you know rope and what you want. If I need a short I will often check WesSpur climbing They have a clearance special on remnants from there spools. Keep in mind that this is a Arborist site and most of what they use is static. If you can shop by spec sweet deals often come up

Thanks for all the replies. Kurt and G those are the article and pics that I was thinking of. I thought I remembered a pic that had a biner gate actually blown as well. I am one of those that rapped on biner brakes and eights for a long time and didn't have any problems. But then again I try to always be extra attentive when I rap. Mullster good point on the fire service. The biggest challenge is that the NFPA is a consenses standard that changes as the varies fire chiefs around the country agree. That's probably enough said on that except to consider that most of them are not climbers.

So I'm looking for some info. I know of the occasional injuries and worse that occured when a fig 8 device busted the side out of a biner. I'm pretty sure I have seen pics and a reference to articles on this site a while back. Searches havn't turned them up yet. Anyone out there have a link or help? Thanks

Now in your trip report you claimed to eat your neighbor. You didn't say anything about a barbecue.

Those crazy Danes got it backwards again. Over here the more jiggle the more it speeds up. It would appear that as the jiggle increases the speed decreases there.

Arch you are assuming that there is a coherant signal somehow connected to a post on this board.

At a risk fo generating huge nerd points. I have more trouble with the lawyer that quotes Princess Bride as part of the legal defense, than with the guy accused of the "crime"

I have not found a "system" that works perfect. I have found I do better if I snack on a frequent basis. I also mix it up regular. I usually take some dried fruit and some fresh, some bagels and some bars, and a couple gu's and stir in a frequent drink usually with cytomax or some other sports drink mix at about half strength. This rather inexact formula works good for me. Now for reference my longest days are always biking. At the end of a double century I am usually pretty wiped but not out of energy. When I hike or climb I don't push quite that hard but even after a 20 mile day I usually stop in good shape.

If we can get together a B'ham pubclub we can do a rerun night and even let you show before everyone is toasted. I'd love to see your pics to Mos.

Glad to hear that all went well. Your making me more bummed that I couldn't make it. Thanks for the props though folks.

I like the Denalli. I think that they are the most bang for the buck. However, I did an eval on the lightnings when they were new out. They do as well as my old Denalli's and with the fabric deck they were way less noisy. None of the clack, clack, clack you get from the plastic if the snow is a little hard on top. If I ever bought slowshoes again I would go with the lightnings. The only down side to them is that they do not accept the tail extensions. If you are going to be extra heavy or in extra fluff there is no helping them out a little.

Good that the projector and stuff is back on this side ofthe hill. If it is with Matt I have only Tuesday or Sunday of this week that I can make it down there. Are you all too partied out to have a Pubclub on Tuesday and make the trip a little more worth the time? Or sould I just plan on picking up gear. Of course if someone steps up to get stuff closer or even to the island thats ok too.

Ya, there is a little adventerous stuff on Orcas. It is still being looked over and developed. Some of it is water access. I am open to having another helper at times or another pair of eyes in the explore. Are you planning a trip to Orcas? If so when we can hookup for a day or so. PS I am told of some good bouldering on San Juan. I have not seen the it but the reports have been positive. I think I could track down some info on them as well.

The coating on the crack has been a bit evolutionary. The wood part is painted with some oil base paint that I mooched at one of those hazmat round ups. I liked the notches and sculpting of the front and sides but it was not quite enough. I added thinset mortar mixed with a latex adhesive additive. This worked well but did not stand up to being outside very good. In the Pics you can see where the next thing was an Epoxy coating. This works good but you need to let it cure fully and then give it a vinegar bath to clean off the amines from the surface. Very smooth and comfy but when it is a bit humid or damp it is a bitch. So I gave it another epoxy coat and sprinked it with fine screened sand. No slip, no dampness problem, but if you work it too long there is no skin left. What I did last year is to strip the thinset base and redo the epoxy then fill it a bit with epoxy over the sand. That holds well and doesn't tear up the hands. It also allows me to sculpt a bit and make some features. The foot chips idea works good too. I tried that with some sprinkled around so that I can work tips a bit better. Ken, This one is real solid. I have no flex in the crack that I have noticed.

So I have a ride for the gear (I think) but the generator is not going to make it home in time. We have a volunteer for a generator so it looks like life is good.

Word on Peters post. Often just rethinking your approach is what is needed. I used to work with a guy that drove on Mondays and Fridays. He would cart in spare clothes and stuff monday. Then he biked the rest and took all the dirty stuff on friday. Not a purist bike commute but way better than a total car one. On another side I have a Dr friend that has one of those electric assist hubs for his mountain bike. He rides to work using as much assist as he can get. Then works it on the way home. He swares by the thing.

Oly I think you are right. But this thread needs some pics anyway. Ken, the crack that I built is made out of a pair of 2" x 10"s. The fancy part is that I built mine with a gimble at the bottom so that I can tilt it either side or can add some chain to the attachments and make it overhung. You may just want to build it straight as this is much easier. Do for sure put in some sort of hinge at the bottom. To adjust it you need to tip it down and move the nuts. Without a pin of some kind it can get away from you. The basic design is two 18' boards. I drilled both with holes that were on 1' centers vertically and offset by 3" in a stagger pattern. On one board I put tee nuts on the inside, the other I hogged out the holes a bit so that I can put taper and flair in to the crack if I choose. Each hole got a 1' piece of 3/8 all-thread. On the tee nut side I put a washer and nut to act as a locking nut. On the other there is a nut and washer inside and out. This way I can change from tips to offwidth. So here are the pics: this one is taken when the crack was going up. I had the side of the woodshed off to do some building changes to support the tilt function Here is a shot of the bolts up close. (Normally off limits but if you are starting to grease and you are at the top they make a good grab ) This one is from the side. You can see the all-thread pattern well. That row of eye bolts on the side and on the Barge rafter couple with a shackle and is how I tilt it from side ot side. This should give you a good idea. If you want any more specific stuff give me PM.

Havin Crack at home is good. I have been happy with mine. A simpler version is quite easy. I am still experimenting with texture or lack of. Finding something that can stand outside in the PNW and takes loads of foot work is a little tricky. I have pics somewhere and there was a thread once too. I guess Oly and I have a race on to see who gets there first. Does this qualify me for the upcoming Special Olympics if I win?

So here is the update on my gear. The projector and the screen are definatley a go. The generator is still a question. I should have the scheduleing of the generator nailed down in the next couple days. The generator (if it can go) is a super quiet small job. It will drive this projector and have 3.8amps 120volt left over which should handle a computer. If it needs to drive a sound system it would be a little small unless the sytem is small. I will post up as soon as I get mine figured out or someone else could step up with a bigger one. The big challenge is that the projector does not have a ride. Is there anyone out there that is in the Anacortes area or could make a detour? I could meet them on Friday afternoon to hand off gear. I will need to check ferry schedules to see when I can get there but it will probably be afternoon sometime. On the return I should be able to pick up the stuff from anywhere B'ham to Everett after the weekend. I am pretty open then.

I am hoping to. The schedule is still a little up in the air. Right now it is tending towards not making it. But the gear can go. I can check the list I may have one of those littel quiet generaters that can go if needed as well, or is that part covered? While I am posting again a quick question for those that are wanting to bring pics. What computer is going to show them? The projector accepts 15pin or DVI which loosley translates to PC straight across and Macs if I send the appropriate adapter. So who's bringin what?

One of my small projectors and a 6' screen is available. If I can hook up with Billygoat to get it there I can send it. Billy you out there?

Thanks Chuck, I may have to adopt a new sig. "Just spin the toilet paper and no one gets hurt."

To put this slightly closer to on track. The normal that I follow is that when I do anything multi-pitch When transfering gear I put it on my partners rack the way they want it. That is how to solve the mixed rack challenge that you mentioned. As to the opposed or same I prefer same but have been known to change as required.