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The deal with Daisys is not that the webbing is weaker but that if you clip and the stitching blows you could be clipped into air. As to the screamer I think that you probaly won't die. I have finished some trips with partial screamers and had no troubles. (of course after the initial fall I was a little more careful next time around ) Just be aware that it is not capable of dissapaiting as much force.

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking possibly glue-ins fro the marine enviroment. Bill, I too am wondering about the matrix of the rock. This particular batch is primarily larger (2" -6" round rock) with varying from 1" to 3" of matrix in between. It seems solid to the hand and to relatively hard wacks with a hammer. In some of the places I observerved cracks tha have propagated through the cobbles and all. Any info on how to verify the rock? Should I try to place in the matrix or in the cobbles? Who knows I may just top rope some prospects for a bit and then have a more knowledgable guest for a visit.

So any of you geologists or experienced bolters this one is for you. I have recently been given access to start putting up stuff on a good sized series of cliffs. They look like fun as they will most likely be accessed via water. The trick is that they are all a tight conglomerate. They have weathered as an exposed sea cliff for a long time with no deterioration so I am pretty sure of the stability. Here's the questions. I am assuming that stainless bolts are better with the salt exposure (and accepting more rapid deteriration). Is it possible and are there any tricks to bolting conglomerate? Any help that somebody out there would pass along would be good.

Matt, If you go this way, I would think carefull. No matter where you go a WFR is about 80 hours of class. I have been to WMTC and WMI, friends have been to Remote Medical. They are pretty close. But 80 hours can be done in one week off and the included weekends. If you go the night school route you are looking at 3 months of freguent night class. I ended up finding that forceing a hole from work was way easier.

Skeletor, I was up there earlier this spring. The white chuck road is washed out big time in two places and once more to a lesser extent starting about 10 miles from the trailhead. The trail is washed out in 9 places from the trailhead to whats left of the hotsprings. Bring a mountain bike and drag it through the washouts. Once you are on the trail it is not too bad to bushwack down in to the river and bypass the washouts then climb back out once you are past. Long day, But it was a really rewarding climb to do Kennady ridge after the battle to get there. When I went up it was about 9 hours From the first road washout to Kennady Hot springs. You time would vary as there was still quite a bit of snow low when I was up.

May your boat sink and you drown, while your mother runs up and down the beach barking for help.

Brazillians play soccer too

Same on Glacier for me. I was up there solo early season. No sign on the way in. On the way out after Kennady Ridge there was fresh scat and tracks all over. I heard noise a fair distance off so it didn't seem like they were looking for me at the moment. Even so I didn't goof off to much getting out.

I would not use REI as a comparison in the normal sense. They have generally sold out (or at least the perception is that way) on climbers. The equipment that they offer is somewhat limited as compared with what most climbers want. It is a good reference as to what the general public sees as outdoor equipment. I might be tempted to use them when determineing what they desire. As to climbing, the simplest assortment should work. If I dropped or forgot a critical piece of gear I would run to the local shop so as not to waste a day. When I am shoping for new protection or stuff on my rack then I would not mind ordering from a catalog if I was useing the local guy. On the Water stuff, I know of one local kiteboard person on Orcas, and a couple sailboarders and surfers. So I think your accurate in assuming it is not catching on very quick.

I agree that you need not to be concerned about money. It would be sweet to have a more local gear shop, but most of the time when I am actually headed towards a mountain there is a gear shop along the way. Mostly for me that is Second ascent, Feathered friends, AAI, MEC, Valhalla, and a couple Online shops mostly Backcountry gear. In Anacortes you would need to primarily sell water sports stuff in order to keep the doors open. A small gear selection on the side would be awesome. Aside from the biners and such that would cross over to water sports use think of all the other wanabes that would buy gear.

I was up there a week and a half ago. It was melting out pretty quick. By now I would expect the Roman Headwall to be pretty icy. One could traverse from the top of the rib and finish as per the Easton without to much trouble. The lower portion of the route was changing quick due to the melt out, just keep your eyes open. On summit day go real early and it should be fine. I was coming down by 8:15 and it was already starting to get soppy. By the time I was down onto the lower Coleman it was mostly pasty wet stuff.

Just a shout to the folk at AAI. I recently posted for some help as I could not make there schedule match with my trip due to my location out in the islands. One of the crew there saw my post and arranged a special deal. Mad props to them for the special effort. Just another reason that I prefer to shop at the local stores. Any of you others out there in the B'ham area probably already shop with em but if you are passing through it is a good little shop with great crew.

Climb: Mt Baker-Coleman Deming Date of Climb: 7/25/2006 Trip Report: So I had to get a quicky TR posted. We left mid morning from Heliotrop ridge trailhead and did a leisurely walk in. Monday morning was teach the newbs basic arrest and rescue skills. Then we climbed to the shelf at the base of Colfax. More goofing and sight seeing. Tuesday we summit and out. Nothing really special to report we met or crossed paths with your typical cross section of interesting climbers and non climbers. Only on one occasion did I need to tell my party to sit down and take a break as I didn't want to be close to that other group. (they were obviously an "interesting" party) The one thing That I wanted to get posted is for those that are thinking of doing anything that involves the Roman headwall. It is partially melted out now and at the rate I observed I would guess that there is about 1 1/2 - 2 weeks left before it is at that late summer all ice state. If you want to do it with snow then get it soon. The rest of the route is in real good condition. Early morning is outstanding, later the snow is wet and pasty. I observed one other party that went as far as the top of the pumice ridge with boots only and only used crampons for the headwall. Probably not a good choice but it worked for them with only a few falls. Gear Notes: Typical glacier stuff

I usually don't have any trouble with cotton. That said I was given a pair of capilene made by Mountain hardware that has silver entrained in the fibres. It really works good to reduce the mank factor. I usually wear them on multiday trips.

When are you going to be out to do the climb? Temps up there are pleasant. In a few months it won't be quite as nice. I was up there recently and was perfectly good in a 1lb down bag. It is good advice to bring some extra insulation in case it gets chilly.

Come on now, that would be a valuable study. If Beer causes beer goggles and whiskey causes whiskey goggles, than a person could decide in advance what kind of ugly they wanted to wake up with. Lets all tell our congressperson to support that.

So my niece and her husband just called and will be in town and would like to climb something. I can't quite cover all the gear needs for the group. I am hoping to rent from AAI. I am looking for someone that is close to Fairhaven that can swing in on Friday the 21st and pick up some gear. We will not make it to that part of the world until 9:30 ish sunday morning. Anyone out there that will be in town that weekend that can help out give me a PM. Thanks

No Doubt, I take off for a couple weeks and this is not what I prefer to come back and hear. Kurt, I'll keep you in my thoughts and the good vibes flowin. Great to hear that you are getting better so soon.

Mountain Girl, if you have a fairly good map it is not too hard to figure. The regs do not apply to parks or non parks. The reg is in regard to Designated wilderness areas. Inside a wilderness area the party size is limited to 12 (including stock if applicable) and no mechanical items are allowed. Looking at Mt Baker is a classic example of the rub. Most of it is inside a wilderness and so it's manual stuff only and limited parties. (even the rangers have to use hand carry or horse carry hence the interesting "suitcase" potties) but there is a small pie shaped piece that roughly follows the railroad grade that is not in the wilderness area. This is where sledheads often bump heads with climbers. Look at you map and your should be able to see the boundaries labled pretty clear. I don't have the map with me right now but I am pretty sure that Nsister is not in a wilderness area. So no worries some may say that large parties are bad form it is in this case not illegal. Glad you had a good trip

5mm works great. 6 and up is a little bit fiddly, 4 works very well I just can't bring myself to prussic out on it. I use part of my texas rig to tie to an anchor initially so that I can get out of arrest position. In this use I would stay with the 5. If all you are doing is preplacing something to transfer with 4 would hold just as well, you'd just have to fiddle a bit to get it released after the transfer.

Now I have seen a pig carcass on Index. And some friends and I for a couple years hauled a 30'x40' canvass wall tent into the hills for "base camp". But this piece of gear seems to say some Brits are a little off center. And it was found buried under a cairn no less.

Thanks all, the response is great. i may even make use of the pinup too. I have been mentoring a high school senior that has choosen for his project research on people that choose the vagabond or dirtbag lifestyle. If anyone else out there has stories that they feel like shareing let me know.

I am trying to find a link to that pic of Fred with the cardboard offering to trade belaying for food. I have searched a fair amount and it doesn't come up under any of the parameters I can think of. Any one out there have a link or know which thread to look in? I know that I have seen it posted on this site.

I hate to see this can of worms get opened too. I have enjoyed climbing in Arches partly because the regs were straight forward. Ya arrive at the gate and they say pretty much climb whatever doesn't have a name, use colored chalk, and approach on rocks or roads. Other than that it's pretty much just play nice and have a good time. I do not forsee huge changes in what is available. But, the potential of a legalese "document" being produced as opposed to a brief welcome paragraph in their handout is unfortunate. Especially if this is due to another climber that woudn't play nice.