fenderfour

I was with the Boealps. And I want to make a correction - we were aiding up those finger cracks, not TR'ing them... sheesh Everyone has to learn somewhere.

Horsethief Butte?

Pics!!! The start of the route taken from our bivy site. The route goes under the bulge then heads straight up the hill. Paul C, Doug S, and Jim S. (whitetrash) ahead of me on a traverse above a crevasse. Mt Baker from high on the North Face of Shuksan My camera is starting to crap out. This was a cool artistic shot of the summit block that it produced for me.

I'm working on resizing some pics now.

Climb: Mt Shuksan -North Face Date of Climb: 6/26/2004 Trip Report: Other Participants: Doug S., Paul C., Jim S. The route goes around to the right up a creek through scree field to a shoulder just below the North Face at 5500 feet. We found a great biv site on some dry rocks. We were up and climbing by 4:00 am on Sunday. The face was in great shape. The snow was perfect styrofoam for kicking a trail. There was no noticable rockfall and little evidence of recent rockfall on the way up. We got to the shoulder in about 4 hours. We decided to go 'round the pyramid to the South Gulley to gain the summit block. About half the gulley was still in snow. The summit was dry with a 30 foot scramble to the top. White Salmon descent: Found Hell's Highway to get to Winnie's slide - note: Winnie's Slide is mislabled on the USGS topo. Downclimbed to the lower White Salmon Glacier, went left on the lower White Salmon. It would have been easier to go right and descend the slopes to the base of the glacier. As it was, we had to navigate through some cliffbands, moats, and minor crevasses to get to a scree field leading to the base of the glacier. Not a whole lot of fun. The very bottom of the glacier is icy. The bushwhack out is even more fun than the bushwhack in. Leave at least 3 hours for this. We got back to the cars at 9:00 pm, 17 hours after we started. It was a great climb on an excellent route. I would recommend it, but the bushwhack is a real trial. Gear Notes: Pickets, second tool (did use) crampons, rope Approach Notes: The high approach really sucks. We had hoped to find snow in order to make the traverse easier, but it just wasn't there. The bushwhack was a good way to start what would become a North Cascades classic. We cut down through alternating heavy timber and clearcut devil's club fields. The basin was plastered with slide alder and talus.

Moose Goo is my favorite. It's just honey, corn flour, and peanut butter. Mix it up and put it in a refillable tube ($3 for two at REI). It tastes like a peanut butter and honey sandwich. I have tasted this one, but I haven't had it as a meal: Doug's Dinner 1/2 cup freeze dried refried beans (fantastic brand) 2 cups minute rice 4 oz Velveeta mild mexican cheese 2 cups boiling H2O Mix and eat

Schweet! I ordered the orange one!!! I will look like somebody!

ken4ord was there a couple weeks ago... you might want to PM him.

at REIoutlet.com

"Stop anyway you can stop." The whole cramponed feet thing depends on conditions... etc.

Keep on dreamin boy, 'cause when you stop dreamin, it's time to die. -Shannon Hoon

Serratus Icefall? Modified Golite Gust (add compression straps & widen hipbelt) mmm.... Turgid Sausage...

3 strikes and drug offenses... Don't get me started on that. You mean like the much maligned Omega Pacific program? Personnally, I'm all for inmate labor. I really don't care if it is taking advantage of them. Think of all the work that the states could get done with that workforce. Local governments would love to have prisons around for the cheap (free) labor. I don't agree with the way we currently dole out the death penalty. Although it has improved greatly over the past forty years, it still isn't 100% accurate. That doesn't mean that we should get rid of it.

I have two stoves: a Whisperlite for the cold trips and a Markill Devil for the warmer trips. The Markill is a cannister stove that is lightweight and works great that can be had at Second Ascent for aboot $20.

Beyond all the rest of this BS - what happened to Justice? That's not justice like the UN does justice, appointing the world's despotic governments to the Human Rights committee. It's Justice with a capital "J". That's John Wayne Justice, That's Winston Churchill Justice. The kind that stopped the Nazis from killing the Jews. Has Justice truly been served if the man who raped an killed your child gets to live his life out in the relative comfort of jail, with guaratneed room and board, healthcare, education...

Then cj001f said: WTF do you care anyways?

NOHHH shit.... one of the biggest hypocracies of modern times. Yeah, how can anyone be AGAINST offing an innocent fetus and FOR frying someone who rapes and murders a 12-year old? Incredible! Definitely "one of the biggest hypocracies of modern times." Now, I'm not a believer, much less a theologian, but I would think that old testament bit about "Thou Shalt Not Kill" would seem pretty clear. Did I miss the part where it said "unless they deserve it" or "unless your secular ruler tells you to" or "unless they aren't in your clan" or any of the other loopholes people imagine they get to use? I think it pretty much means that any Christian (Jews too, right? Doesn't the old testament apply to them as well?) who supports the death penalty is an out and out hypocrite who for damn sure can't criticize anyone else about moral relativism. I'm no believer either, but I always thought that studying religion was damn interesting. So here's what I know: The Old Testament very clearly required capital punishment for crimes like adultery. Remember how Mary was almost killed for getting pregnant? We can go further back and look at Genesis 9:6: "Whoso sheddeth man's blood, by man shall his blood be shed: for in the image of God made he man." Hipocrisy? A quick search yielded the following biblical crimes punishable by death: Following a different religion strangers entering the temple black magic talking with spirits adultery incest prostitution in the temple bestiality fornication having sex with mom & daughter being a priest's daughter and a prostitute you could even be killed fo rdoing work on Saturday. You had a funny post with an interesting thought, but you didn't do a whole lot of research.

Jail overcrowding BEsides that, if these people are indeed sick, wouldn't they be sent to mental hospitals?

FYI - your morals aren't my morals.

Just a thought about Green Tea - 20Mg caffeine, Coffee 80 Mg. Other places list green tea as high as 35Mg and coffee as high as 140Mg. The whole green tea has more caffeine than coffee thing is a myth. BTW - thanks for the info. I get some gnarly cramps in my quads.

Criminals that get caught are for the most part dumb. That's why they get caught. How exactly is someone sentanced to life w/o parole going to get out? Umm... ok.

Nothing gained, just things disposed of. Most of these people are very smart, otherwise they wouldn't have gotten away with so much. They probably wouldn't have too much trouble convincing the system that they are "reformed" or "cured" when in fact, they aren't. Did you ever see the interviews with Ted Bundy? He didn't seem like a killer to me.

I think you guys are right. We never should have electrocuted Albert Fish, a man who kept a 4 year old boy for 5 days, beating him to "tenderize the meat" before he killed and ate him. We never should have put Henry Lee Lucas to death for killing at least 20 people even though he admitted to killing Hundreds. Richard Ramirez, the Night Stalker should probably have been let out on parole for good behavior. Even more recently, we have the beltway snipers who were just misunderstood as they killed innocent people just going about their lives. Read about them here Every now and then an innocent man slips through the system, but I think that is becoming less of an occurrance these days. As for preferring death to incarceration - that's a noble statement, but self-preservation is a powerful thing. Winter's statistics - I have heard the same thing elsewhere.

I don't think that this is about ego, but ethics (as the poll says). People's ethics are different which is why (I think) Dane started this poll. You're right Lucky - Routes are different. Some are run out. If you don't want to climb a runout, don't climb the route. Some are 5.14. I'm not going to chip holds to make it a fun route for me, I will respect the others who can climb it. I agree that a group of out of control crowbar climbers is scary. Are these guys really out of control?

A riveting story about the loves and losses of a former Catholic priest...