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Everything posted by fenderfour
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Correction: Sausage Party Is it our fault that most women don't possess the testicular fortitude to throw down?
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Where is it acceptable to take beginners?
fenderfour replied to catbirdseat's topic in Climber's Board
Sucks to be CBS... -
Step... Step... Step... Just kidding. The key to a safe trip up Rainier (IMHO) is knowing glacier travel and crevasse rescue. The Mountaineers cover this stuff for about $400 in their basic class, the Boealps do the same thing for $200. Both of these classes teach you a whole lot more than just glacier travel. Another route to take is to get a good book (Freedom of the Hills) and practice the techniques in a safe setting. The techniques are not difficult, just specialized. Throw a rope over a tree branch and prusik up. Learn to build snow anchors. Set up a Z-pulley over a large snow embankment and pull someone up. My last recommendation repeats Blake's thoughts. Get some experience. Climbing Rainier in good weather can be a cakewalk. Climbing Rainier in a nasty storm can be terrifying. Good luck.
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We almost got to eat a this weekend. They were staging an all-out 5 sided assault on our packs at Summerland this weekend. My partner grabbed a rock and nailed one. The little bugger got stuck on "left turn" and spiraled into the bushes.
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I will give you one BD #6 stopper that I found on Shuksan and a bottle of Nair for the whole lot. No comment on the increased climbing skills.
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Big fat stupid
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Don't touch the third rail.
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You can leave the tent poles at home. Th canopy will be held aloft by positive air pressure.
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I was with the Boealps. And I want to make a correction - we were aiding up those finger cracks, not TR'ing them... sheesh Everyone has to learn somewhere.
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Pics!!! The start of the route taken from our bivy site. The route goes under the bulge then heads straight up the hill. Paul C, Doug S, and Jim S. (whitetrash) ahead of me on a traverse above a crevasse. Mt Baker from high on the North Face of Shuksan My camera is starting to crap out. This was a cool artistic shot of the summit block that it produced for me.
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I'm working on resizing some pics now.
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Climb: Mt Shuksan -North Face Date of Climb: 6/26/2004 Trip Report: Other Participants: Doug S., Paul C., Jim S. The route goes around to the right up a creek through scree field to a shoulder just below the North Face at 5500 feet. We found a great biv site on some dry rocks. We were up and climbing by 4:00 am on Sunday. The face was in great shape. The snow was perfect styrofoam for kicking a trail. There was no noticable rockfall and little evidence of recent rockfall on the way up. We got to the shoulder in about 4 hours. We decided to go 'round the pyramid to the South Gulley to gain the summit block. About half the gulley was still in snow. The summit was dry with a 30 foot scramble to the top. White Salmon descent: Found Hell's Highway to get to Winnie's slide - note: Winnie's Slide is mislabled on the USGS topo. Downclimbed to the lower White Salmon Glacier, went left on the lower White Salmon. It would have been easier to go right and descend the slopes to the base of the glacier. As it was, we had to navigate through some cliffbands, moats, and minor crevasses to get to a scree field leading to the base of the glacier. Not a whole lot of fun. The very bottom of the glacier is icy. The bushwhack out is even more fun than the bushwhack in. Leave at least 3 hours for this. We got back to the cars at 9:00 pm, 17 hours after we started. It was a great climb on an excellent route. I would recommend it, but the bushwhack is a real trial. Gear Notes: Pickets, second tool (did use) crampons, rope Approach Notes: The high approach really sucks. We had hoped to find snow in order to make the traverse easier, but it just wasn't there. The bushwhack was a good way to start what would become a North Cascades classic. We cut down through alternating heavy timber and clearcut devil's club fields. The basin was plastered with slide alder and talus.
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Moose Goo is my favorite. It's just honey, corn flour, and peanut butter. Mix it up and put it in a refillable tube ($3 for two at REI). It tastes like a peanut butter and honey sandwich. I have tasted this one, but I haven't had it as a meal: Doug's Dinner 1/2 cup freeze dried refried beans (fantastic brand) 2 cups minute rice 4 oz Velveeta mild mexican cheese 2 cups boiling H2O Mix and eat
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Schweet! I ordered the orange one!!! I will look like somebody!
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ken4ord was there a couple weeks ago... you might want to PM him.
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at REIoutlet.com
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"Stop anyway you can stop." The whole cramponed feet thing depends on conditions... etc.
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Keep on dreamin boy, 'cause when you stop dreamin, it's time to die. -Shannon Hoon
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Serratus Icefall? Modified Golite Gust (add compression straps & widen hipbelt) mmm.... Turgid Sausage...
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3 strikes and drug offenses... Don't get me started on that. You mean like the much maligned Omega Pacific program? Personnally, I'm all for inmate labor. I really don't care if it is taking advantage of them. Think of all the work that the states could get done with that workforce. Local governments would love to have prisons around for the cheap (free) labor. I don't agree with the way we currently dole out the death penalty. Although it has improved greatly over the past forty years, it still isn't 100% accurate. That doesn't mean that we should get rid of it.
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I have two stoves: a Whisperlite for the cold trips and a Markill Devil for the warmer trips. The Markill is a cannister stove that is lightweight and works great that can be had at Second Ascent for aboot $20.
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Beyond all the rest of this BS - what happened to Justice? That's not justice like the UN does justice, appointing the world's despotic governments to the Human Rights committee. It's Justice with a capital "J". That's John Wayne Justice, That's Winston Churchill Justice. The kind that stopped the Nazis from killing the Jews. Has Justice truly been served if the man who raped an killed your child gets to live his life out in the relative comfort of jail, with guaratneed room and board, healthcare, education...
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Then cj001f said: WTF do you care anyways?