fenderfour

WA Pass would be a great area: Beckey Route on Lib Bell, North Arete on SEWS, North Face (?) on Kangaroo Temple Boving Route on SEWS... A more adventurous n00b might even have fun following on Cutthroat SEB. I've been to Erie a few times and I don't think that it has a lot of trad. I could be wrong, though. Mostly just TR'ed faces and a few bolted routes. I have a n00b friend who followed the West Ridge of Prusik last week. His only other trad climb was a trip up R&D. HE had a great time. Spring ropeup goes alpine?

I'm not sure that I want to sell them. I might butcher one to make a special tool to help a single-handed friend do a little ice climbing.

Just an FYI - There's a guy on Ebay selling what looks to be Stubai Ultralights for $37.99 + $8.00 shipping. He calls them "trampons" BTW - Does Stubai have longer extender bars available? One more thing - I'm not the one selling.

I can finally get stoked about ice climbing now that I know enough to not get myself killed. Thanks Dave.

I was sleeping in my tent at the top of Asgaard pass when it hit. I tried to solo the walkup on Dragontail earlier that day, but I didn't like the glacier. Too manky. I saw a party of 4 coming down the glacier after I got back to camp. I'm assuming they had done a more difficult route. BTW - I hope you appreciated the steps I chopped.

I have found the The Tech Wing for $140 each. I swung Micah's Light Machines at Baker and they great, even a little sexier than the BD Cobras. Grivel says that the Tech Wing has the same basic geometry as the Light Machines, the bend has been replaced with a gentle curve. Thanks for the input

Is there any particular reason?

Lightwing or Techwing? I don't think that I will be doing any extreme WI6 or gnarly mixed stuff. Mostly Alpine ice and funking around in Lilloet. FYI - I want to replace my straight BD Black Prophets.

I'm getting into trad climbing, and I wanted to know if my mountain biking skills could help out with paragliding. Any info would be appreciated.

And damn good fun.

Markill Devil is light, but not as light as the Pocket Rocket. It's also dirt cheap ($20 at Second Ascent) and reliable.

Carlos Buhler and Mark Price 1999

I bet you can use two sets. Give it time. You will want doubles.

The Intermediate Class requires that you have the skills taught in the Basic Class, but there is no exam. You just have to convince the lead instructor that you know what you are doing. This shouldn't be very difficult if you have been doing any climbing before the class. I would say that very few people in the organization are considered an "expert" for any given subject. We find the most experienced people we can to teach the different aspects of climbing. Gary Brill gave a very nice lecture on avalanches this year to the ICC. Climbing resumes are reviewed for the Intermediate Class. You don't need any spectacular climbs in there, just some evidence that you have taken the initiative to push the envelope beyond what would be learned in the Basic Class. There are other benefits to classes - We teach all of our Basic Class students how to escape the belay and how to get back in. We also teach all of the Intermediate Students basic vertical rescue tehniques. Both are things that are frequently missed when learning from a friend.

My name is fenderfour and I am a Boealper. There are more of us lurking around here, but it wouldn't be polite to expose them. Boealps does allow non-Boeing people in. If you are interested, IM me and I can give more info. The Basic Class runs from late February through late May, with Wednesday night class sessions and an outing almost every weekend. We focus on glacier climbing, but we do a little work on rock climbing. The class is organized by teams that climb together throughout the class. Hopefully this will give the students a base of climbing partners for the inevitable attempts on Rainier and the other area volcanoes after the class. Climbs are usually at Mt Erie, The Tatoosh and on Baker. Total class size is usually around 35. The Intermediate Class focuses on leading mid fifth-class rock in an alpine environment. The class starts in March and lasts through mid-Setember with a class meeting and outing every other week. The ICC outings are more realistic alpine outings than you will find in the basic class. Usually an outing will have two students and two instructors. Climbs vary greatly. Students will usually complete at least one difficult carry-over in addition to a few alpine rock outings. The class culminates with a grad climb which is fully organized and lead by the students. Instructors tag along t omake sure that the students don't kill themselves. Total class size is usually around 12. You can get into the Intermediate Class without having taken the Basic Class. You must show proficiency with the skills covered in the basic class (no formal test). There are some major differences between the Boealps and the Mountaineers - Boealps does not require summits for class completion, all Boealps instructors are volunteers, none are required to teach for class completion. Someone pointed out that some instructors are the "experts" from last year's basic class. This is true to some extent. Each team is lead by a very experienced lead. They have a team of other instructors backing them up, some inexperienced, some very experienced. Being a volunteer organization, we don't want to discourage anyone whoo might want to help out, but we make sure that people are doing things within their capabilities. If you want to know more about the Boealps, drop me a line. I will be happy to help.

Arr! Ship's Ahoy matey!

Hmmmm. I disagree. I was up there two days ago - Asgaard has zero snow. The Glacier on the Dragontail walk-up is ugly. There was 2" of crappy foamy ice/slush on the surface and water ice beneath. It was tough to get a good crampon placement, but it was doable once you kicked away the surface mank. I don't think you could do the glacier without either crampons or chopping steps.

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An acclimitization "table"? Do you mean a climb schedule? If so, many of the pay to climb companies post trip itineraries on their websites. They are usually well thought out plans to acclimate to the needed elevation.

The North Bend Pizza Place is called "The Pizza Place". Pretty good pizza. Robertiello's is a nice Italian joint on the main strip. They have good food and have accomodated parties of stinky climbers in the past.

Gratuitous use of seizure causing robots?

Los Alamos Sunrise (a friend's) 2 Shots Tequila 8 oz cranberry juice Like a Cosmo, but with balls. A link for fun: Sotally Tober

That would make a bitchin wallpaper.

Pacifist

Not overall more valuable, but more useful to a new climber.