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Everything posted by fenderfour
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Sweet!!! Stomach stapling, here I come!!!
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For the record, I'm not trying to scare anyone. What I am trying to do is add a different perspective to the board. Most of the posters have been climbing for a long time and use complicated techniques and take extra risks because they know what they are doing. I have seen more than one newbie ask a question and get buried in a pile of complicated explanations or have things recommended that aren't necessarily unsafe, but have more risk involved than other easy methods. Example: I could show a new climber a double bowline with yos finish to tie in with - Yes, it is a better knot and easier to untie, but it is more complicated and has a higher risk for error than a figure eight. By recommending the use of a daisy for a personal anchor while belaying from your harness (as I see most people doing), you are assuming a certain amount of risk for a new climber. You are assuming that they won't double clip the loops, you are assuming that they know the loops can fail under small loads. These are a few reasons why I recommended a sling in the first place. If you want something adjustable and bomb-proof, you can tie a daisy out of some 9/16ths webbing. It's almost as versatile and a lot more mistake-proof.
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As I said I know nothing....
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-<shrug>- it's your ass, not mine.
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Deleted due to my ignorance. Please forgive me for recommending a safer way.
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I am the fat kid... Dru pretty much hit it on the head. I have a friend that works in public health (cardio-vascular studies) and she said about the same thing. The BMI does not work for athletes or for people who are very fit. It was created as a statistical tool for the masses.
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I think you missed the North Cascades forum with this post. i didn't see it in the Climbing Gyms forum either. Someone might miss it.
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I had a good time on Dumbell a couple of weeks ago.
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60 meters long, 9.7mm-10.5mm in length. You could get a dry rope, but it's unnecessary for cragging (unless you like climbing in the rain). Check out reioutlet.com and gearexpress.com for cheap ropes. I don't know about quickdraws. I use my doubled single slings
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The rope should be your personal anchor. Ummm... what about when you're at the top of a sport pitch and you have to untie yourself to feed the rope through the chains? Or any time you're getting ready to rap off of anything, for that matter? What do you anchor yourself with then? Personal anchor = tied double sling. It's cheap and multi-functional. A daisy chain is only useful to clip yourself in when you are waiting to rappel. Beyond that, it's a good possibility that you will have a couple on your rack for climbing, and you won't need them for climbing when you are rapelling.
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Cheap Gear: Forged Friends #1-4 (9 cams) $277 Huevos (stoppers) $60 #1-#13 Trango Nutz #1-#8 $42 No shipping charges from Gearexpress.com
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1. Rope 2. More locking 'biners and webbing to set up topropes (learn how) 3. Quickdraws to lead sport routes
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Climb: Kangaroo Temple, Cutthroat -North Face, South East Buttress Date of Climb: 7/18/2004 Trip Report: Just an FYI - There are 3 bolts hidden on the far north side of the summit block to rappel down the North Face Route. Single raps will do, but we did a double and a single to get back to the notch. IMHO the route is not really worth the time. Two pitches of ok climbing. I would definitely recommend the NW face or SW face. they looked bitchin. We just didn't have time to check them out. We also did the SEB of Cutthroat on Saturday. I lead all pitches. It kicked major ass. Gear Notes: Standard gear. Need something big (#11 hex or 3.5 camalot) for the offwidth at the top of the SEB on Cutthroat. Approach Notes: Good trails, chossy gulleys
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Just a website. But you can have any order sent to a local REI store for free (save shipping $$)
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My favorite cam - a #1 clog cam that I got for $20 from REIOutlet.com. It's cheap and always semms to fit.
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Spent Saturday getting chewed on by mosquitos while we climbed the SEB of Cutthroat. We saw a big black bear on the way out. Spent Sunday getting chewed on by mosquitos while we climbed the NF of Kangaroo Temple. We should have climbed the NWF instead.
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This jog down memory lane took me all of 7 minutes to complete. At least I'm efficient in my wasting of time. BTW - Once I saw the mullet thread, I couldn't help myself.
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You're right. I could be arguing about politics instead.
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I'm almost getting tired of taking cracked's
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I am the sniper
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The thief is everywhere...
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goin' on a hunt... I'm not scared! I'm not scared!