mike1

Chris Long, State SAR Coordinator. Thanks OW and all who tried to show in person! Also to everyone that helped to knock it down by writing in. Stay tuned, I guess...

I would too, but I left my credit card at the gas station...

Holy crap man! I just started a 6 gallon jug of Dead Guy KO and felt pretty proud of myself. You must be running a full bar with all that equipment. I got one bucket, a few carboys, some hose and a couple boxes of EZ-cap bottles (can you say amateur). My last batch was an amber ale, but it had an odd flavor to it. Maybe sweetness? I’ve tasted it before in some darker porters and don’t care much for it. I’m thinking I should have used more hops. When you’re loading the hops in, how tight do you need to keep your measurements when you’re following a recipe? Extra handful here and there make or break 6 gallons? Ounces?

I almost missed this post! I spent the day on Hood linkin turns........ not bad for an old fart. Thanks sobo!

I really like my Canon Rebel XT (DSLR). It’s fairly light for its size. The bulk is the obvious drawback. I keep mine in a Tamrac Holster Pack attached to my hip belt. So far this hasn’t inhibited my climbing experience.

Done! thanks for putting this together!!!

North Face Looking forward to it or would rather see Avatar?

still kicking it in an old skool HB.

letter sent! Let's let PMR speak for themselves please.

i like Fred

[video:youtube]

cool link

Top of the world!

pretty cool stuff out there... Here are a few more dated pieces.

I agree with the use of a single strand to a point and I think you guys are defining that point. Something to keep in mind is that even though they say the rope is tested to take 9 falls per strand, they are testing at a lower standard than a single rope. The 8.5mm sharp has an impact force of ~5.4kn (with 80kg (176lbs)), while the Laser Arc 9.6mm, for example, is ~8kn (with 80kg (176 lbs)). Another example: Mammut tests their half ropes for falls with 55kg (121lbs) and their single ropes with 80kg (176lbs).

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hP9DEU1NokM

I too to have the 8.5 sharps and I have doubled one to simul as you describe. I wouldn’t recommend using a single rope for alpine ice though. I use a single for glacier travel, but if you begin entering into the more vertical alpine ice world you should double them. Maybe I am misunderstanding your question...

I have had a light weight Magellan for years, but have yet to take it out climbing... I’m with you Rad, relying on map, compass, altimeter, and proper planning. I helped lead a training exercise for a rescue team I was on years ago. It was our annual map, compass, and GPS training. Members brought their own GPS units, but many didn’t understand how to use them. Part of the exercise was to walk with a topo map that had UTM coordinates on the side rulers, down a forest road a few thousand feet to a given UTM coordinate, then collect that location and move into the forest to locate a secondary point, then walk a grid south and west from that point collecting way points along the search covering 250,000 square feet (a 500' by 500' square). This would later be downloaded and resolved for search confidence and scored for the ability to follow direction. Anyway, one guy started walking the other direction down the road from us. I caught up to him and asked where he was going and he told me that he was going in the direction that made his coordinates smaller. I’m not picking on this guy. He didn’t know how to use his GPS or understand coordinate systems and the point of the course was to teach those things. Point is, he had confidence in his GPS but no idea how to use it. A GPS unit is only as good as the user. IMO the fatal flaw of GPS is the reliance and confidence one might feel from a unit driven by batteries. It’s essential to plan routes and escape routes and to be fully competent in the use of your map and compass. Having said that, all my years on the team, we never had to search for anyone lost because of a GPS. Quite a few folks we found that didn’t know how to use their compass though.

Baller

Nicely done man. Such a classic climb.

I need a line on where I can find a good knock-off of Double Dead Guy

Damn...

Wow! Very cool pics!!

Thanks Dane. I have the 1960 printing and it doesn’t go into much detail on their ascent. Maybe there's more detail in later chapters, but I don't recall. It does have a very nice trifold-out photo of the face though. Mike

A memorial wall for those that have perished.