kurthicks

According to the tests, it will reduce the number of falls held by up to 50%. The real danger comes from loading that exact spot over an edge or biner...read more about it here. http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/Marking%20of%20Ropes.doc my recommendation is to weave dental floss or heavy thread through the sheath very carefully at the middle of the rope.

it's too bad that it will probably fall down this weekend when the temps hit -10 or so.

2 people climbing the infamous "pencil" pitch on Polar Circus. edit:just wanted to say that I didn't take this pic...

good call Dru, you going to be there too?

or check out one here... golite 6 month parka $99

a couple years ago my goretex jacket and new windstopper hat fell off my pack while descending cross-country after climbing the Prouty Glacier on South Sister. sadly, it's probably still out there.

yep, after looking at some pics it appears that the gully i was thinking of is the right most obvious one on the Reid HW. awesome looking line.

awesome job guys! :insert jealous graemlin here:

new gaiters, winter mittens, and an 8 day climbing trip to Banff with the girlfriend. w00t!

Jake, do you mean the "trigger" things? you can get them from Grivel NA http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/index2.html or I bet John could order you some. now that you've got 2 tools, you're coming ice climbing with me after christmas.

We had the same. my helmet saved me more than once. I'd love some pics of the lower part of the route if you took any. PM me if you do. Kurt

there was a pencil of ice coming down the east face on Monday. The gulleys on the west face of Queens Chair(?) (the one above I-rock) looked awesome. I didn't see much else though.

Climb: Mt. Hood-Leutholds Couloir Date of Climb: 12/20/2004 Trip Report: climbed Leutholds on Monday with Bala (pup_on_the_mountain) during a brief break in the high winds that buffeted the mountain during the early part of the week. The route is in awesome condition, with the 'hourglass' being about 300' of WI2. we climbed about 20 ropelengths w/our 50m rope, just pausing to belay Bala up the crux 55-ish degree ice step. The route took bomber pickets and screws wherever we needed them. Great route with the conditions and not another soul in sight. looking down above the hourglass Upper Yocum Sunset from Crater Rock Gear Notes: 1 axe & tool each 3 pickets 3 screws 50m rope Approach Notes: awesome snow

were you guys up there on Sunday evening? We ran into a party of 3 coming down, all covered in rime... Kurt

well, my car is now at the shop. They won't get it done until Friday, but i did find a partner and will be able to salvage the next 3 days.

So there I was, 15 miles out of town with the intent of climbing the next 4 days and my car started screaming from the rear axle. w00t is that I though? My christmas present to myself is now a fixed car (taking a week & going to cost me $300+). everyone else has gone home for christmas and I'm stuck. This is so suck.

check your PMs.

partners found. thanks all. EDIT: Scratch that. I'm available still, but am carless and now stuck in Pullman. Come pick me up and we can hit something up in Idaho/MT/Canada...

I am neither. Most of that stuff was from posts and various websites. I've got some more stuff at home, but am still looking for more info...pass it along if you've got any. Kurt

this isn't my most recent version, but here you go. ---------------------------------------------------------- Wallowas Hurricane Creek Drainage Note: All climbs mentioned here have huge avalanche danger Falls Creek Falls Elevation: 5,000’ Grade: WI3-5? M 4/5? Length: ~50 ft Approach: about 3/8ths of a mile from the Hurricane Creek trailhead. Follow the sign on a tree that says “Fall Creek Falls.” Couldn’t be more obvious. Alternately, continue on the main trail until you reach the creek and walk up the drainage. Time ~ 10 minutes Unnamed Falls Elevation: About 5,200’ Length: ~35’ Approach: Across the canyon from Falls Creek and up the hill. Slick Rock Canyon Falls Elevation: 5,760’ Grade: WI2 for the first steps, above unknown Length: 2 small steps (15’ each) with what looked like a longer pitch above Approach: about 3 miles from Hurricane Creek trailhead, about 150m from 2nd switchback) Time ~ 1-1.5 hours Wallowa Lake Climbs BC Creek Falls Elevation: About 5,600’ Grade: WI2-3 Length: ? Approach: From the Wallowa Lake TH, take the West Fork Wallowa River trail. At the Chief Joseph Mtn. Junction (0.3 miles), turn right. Follow the trail for 1.2 miles to the falls. Time ~ 30 minutes Boy Scout Falls Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length:? Approach: ? ---------------------------- Central & Eastern Oregon Three Fingered Jack SE Couloir Grade: 45-65 degrees (from Oregon High) Length: 800’ Season: Jan-March. Usually, by the time the trailhead melts out, the route is out of shape. Approach: From the Jack Lake TH, follow the trail to Canyon Creek Meadow. TFJ is obvious. Middle Sister Ice Hose / NE Face Direct Grade: WI 4+ Length: 2 pitches. The rest of the route was 55-60 deg neve to the top. Approach: just to the left of the NE Face route as shown in Oregon High. Paulina Falls Elevation: 6,200’ Grade: WI4-5 ? Length: 100’ Approach: From US 97, drive 6 miles north of La Pine and turn east onto Paulina Lake Rd. Drive 10 miles to the unmarked parking lot. Hike along an old jeep road at the end of the lot. After 0.4 miles, turn left (west) and hike for another .6 miles. Strawberry Lakes The Strawberry Range has excellent ice opportunities. They are spring fed and form every year. Season: ice begins forming in late October at the high elevations and is usually filled in by Christmas. Snow melt throughout the season can form twice the number of climbs but is usually ephemeral at best, thus hard to predict Strawberry Falls Grade: half a dozen routes up to ninety feet mostly pure some mixed. (wood finishes on a few!) Length: 90’ Approach: about 3 miles over pretty moderate terrain. The big issue would be getting your car to the trail head Little Provo Grade: WI4-5 Length: 1 long pitch Approach: the west of the lower lake Honey Pot Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: East of the upper lake amongst the island of trees The After Image FA: Feb. 1996, who? Elevation: ? Grade: V, WI5+ Length: 120m Approach: drive as far as the county plows, usually to the timber just below McNaughton spring. The After Image is obvious above and south of strawberry lake. Note: “This grade v wi5+ is a serious alpine endeavor. It consists of 120 meters of steep ice in the middle of a 420 meter alpine north face. The overall grade depends on timing. Later in the season when the cave pillar touches down, it’s a bitch to approach, often bad depth hoar. Early season it can be a cruise to get to it but, the overhanging climbing pumps the technical grade.” Camp at the trail head campground or find a bivvy at house rock adjacent little strawberry lake. The crux pillar on “after image” usually does not touch down until the upper sixty meters fills out. This route is best done late in the season. ----------------------------- PDX Area and Gorge Climbs: Ainsworth State Park Grade: WI 4-5 ? Length: 700’ Approach: take I-84 east from Portland to Exit 28 (Bridal Veil), and follow highway 125 for about six miles past Multnomah Falls and Ainsworth State Park entrance. Crown Jewel Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Sheppard's Dell Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Mt. Hood Eliot Glacier Moraine Season: October-May Approach: From the Tilly Jane Campground, hike up the Timberline Trail for a mile. Holly Falls Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Illumination Rock “March Madness” Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: Walk uphill from Timberline Lodge. Ski Bowl Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: to the right of the main ski run at Ski bowl Pete’s Pile Elevation: ~3500’ Grade: WI4+ and up. Most are TR able with bolts at top. Length: Mostly 1 pitch, some 2 pitch Season: They will form when the Gorge does, and stick around a little longer. Approach: a steep 10 minute hike from pull off on Hwy35 to main crag. They are visible from the road. Note: Find a copy of "Portland Rock Climbs" by Tim Olsen -----------------------

Cascade. occasional avys though. Professors. same. longer approach We'll be up there the same time if, say, she wants to go ski and you want to climb... Kurt

aaron check yo PMs.

Goals: more solid as a 10/11 trad leader lead harder ice routes: Liberty Ridge ice FAs in Idaho Enclosure Couloir OS/Orbit linkup Hood, NF (skunked 2 years in a row) Eldo, NE Couloir must stop: climbing the Beckey route on Liberty Bell bitching about weather spraying...

I'm looking to get out this weekend & early next week. Banff for ice would be my preference, but Cascades alpine would work well too. I'd like to get out all 4 days (Saturday morning - Tuesday night). PM me or post... Kurt