kurthicks

The real question is can you arrest on glacier ice? If not, they why use a rope at all? For practicing crevasse rescue, it would be fine. I just did the Adams Glacier in a party of 2 with a 20m rope. scary if one of us really fell in? yes. light? totally.

How about CC'ing (carbon copying) for PMs?

I use my MSR dragonfly on the Trillium baseplate and swaged a wire hanging system to that. Clip it to the apex of the tent. bungee the fuel bottle to the underside of the baseplate. I bet it would work with one of the new XGKs with the flexible fuel lines.

I've got some route pics and pics of you i'll try to post tomorrow. Anyone know how to post/attach a video?

are the hexes slung or wired?

that's what I meant to do, thanks Darin.

Beckey says it's pretty crappy rock, but who cares when it looks like this: looks like a brutal approach though.

it looked pretty dry on Friday afternoon.

what gear are you looking for? I may be interested.

7mm.

Full size pics Sunset on Maude Juan on 7FJ-Maude Col traverse Maude North Face Juan chilling with the Death Cornice Fat marmot posing in Leroy Creek Basin This was a pretty fun trip. Thanks Juan for the burger and Jens for the steps. Time to go back and do the N. Ice Couloir...

I was up in Marblemount this weekend and met a ranger who lurks the site for beta, not to bust people. Feds can be climbers too...

all of this has me inspired to head down there soon to check out some alpine routes there. Anyone interested? thanks sobo, when are you coming out to Lightning Dome area?

Were you the one that soloed it? If so, that was my girlfriend and I finishing it up when you were there. perfect timing.

here are a few: DPS on the Kahiltna Hunter Foraker Denali from KIA Me enjoying the views from 17k

PDX actually. right in your own backyard.

It's not Dan Fido. I've known John for going on 10 years, so I'll vouch for him and UTS. Anyways, here are some pictures: http://www.uncagethesoul.com/CascadeTrifecta/index.html

Thanks Bill. Everyone else, please refrain from ripping on my friend. His production work is pretty impressive. I believe the drive time is somewhere in the 6 hour range...

It is not uncommon for guides to have new clients belayed with a separate rope while rappelling. Although it does add some confusion for the rappeller initially, it does make them feel a lot more safe. If it's a short rappel, do it with a doubled 60m rope--fix it halfway and have them rap the fixed side while belaying (say with a Munter) on the other half. no extra equipment necessary. For style bonus points, belay on a separate rope and give a fireman's on the rap line.

Perhaps most importantly: DPS and I met Annabell Bond's guide for her April Denali climb. Nice guy with some interesting insights into her climbing mentality. Dinner and had at the West Rib Pub.

what is your intended driving route from PDX to stanley? I-84 to Idaho then north?

I just found this thread. Some of my thoughts on the trip: I had a great time and am not disappointed that we didn't summit. just hanging out at 17K and catching views of Foraker and Hunter were more than enough for me to feel like it was all worth it. Take the time to enjoy the scenery since being back in the office sucks. People climb Denali for all sorts of reasons, especially for the "trophy" of climbing the high peak of North America. I never got this summit fever and am amazed how people can go back year after year to try this route (except for the beauty of the Range). Good for them, but it's not my definition of climbing. I was amazed by how physically easy it was and my muscles were never tired. my hardest days though were the carry days to 13,5 and 17K, but the move days were a breeze. I attribute this to being my first time at either of those altitudes. Our longest travel day was 5.5 hours on the move to 17K. There are pickets on the Denali Pass traverse, just clip and go (dig out if necessary). Tie in long (30+m) if you're on a team of 2 to have a picket between you at all times. There is one piece of fixed line at Washburn's Thumb and a picket here and there on the ridge. I'll post some pics today or tomorrow when I get the chance.

there is granite in the Wallowas and some limestone. the W. Face of the Matterhorn is the largest face in Oregon, supposedly, at over 4K tall. TG was talking about putting a line up it a while back. there have been numerous attempts, some involving some spicy aid. I hadn't heard of House's line on it though, sounds interesting.

A friend of mine documented their climb via photos and video. it should be up on his website in a few days. uncagethesoul.com

I just got off the mountain. right now aluminum pons would be ok, but 2 weeks ago aluminum pons would have made the trip nearly impossible since the glacier was all blue ice. it snowed a lot since then. i was glad to have steel pons on the HW though, even with the fixed lines. the pickets are in place on Denali Pass, about 100' or so apart. some were burried, but could be easily dug out. all have biners attached to them w/duct tape. tie in long if there are only 2 on your rope team. Kurt