kurthicks

Any foam helmet will impart less force on your nogging compared to a plastic model. They're the way to go, although they are less durable (excepting maybe this sirocco).

Two great geezers raging in the mountains. Grand! Looks like a perfect trip!

Exit 38 We Did Rock July 26, 2013 Your Sister - Replaced 2 anchor bolts and chains. My X Wife - Added one anchor bolt with chains. Will replace other bolt in the future. Didn't have the proper removal tools to take out the open shuts on the existing manky anchor, but at least now there is a closed link to thread the rope through. The Joke - Replaced missing hangers and added camouflaged chains. Some Drugs - Replaced the existing stacked chain/washer rap anchor. Thanks to Petzl for donating the hangers!

As a lot of folks mentioned, I'd recommend a twin rated rope. Chop it into two sections and split the weight between you and your partner. Also you might consider using a redirected rappel (Z-rappel) for rappelling on skinny ropes. In the photo below, the blue cord is the rappel extension sling. The skinny (red) rap line comes through the device, down to a biner on your belay loop, up to another carabiner on the device, then down in the normal brake position.

Exit 38 July 24, 2013 W/ Forest McBrian & Erin Smart Substation Wall Homo Erectus - Replaced both anchor bolts Write-Off Rock Flammable Pajamas - Replaced both anchor bolts Knife in the Toaster - Replaced one anchor bolt

Here are a few that came to mind. I didn't get to make it to the meeting tonight. glacier creek (baker, north side) shannon ridge (shuksan, south side) schreiber meadows (baker, south side) middle fork of snoqualmie Sibley/Hidden Peaks lookout NF Sauk (glacier peak) Clear Creek (darrington climbs) FS 41 (Three Fingers Lookout) Hannagan Pass Downey Creek (Ptarmigan Traverse) Mtn Loop Highway (the FS part in the middle)

You pretty much summed it up Clint. Thanks for teaming up on such an incredible route! I, too, am looking forward to many more mountain adventures with you. I put a few more photos and words up on my website too: http://kurthicks.com/2013/05/07/fun-day-on-mount-huntington/

Wear less clothing and keep yourself from sweating.

I left a rope near the base of Saber on Friday, July 12. if you happened to find it, please give me a shout and I'll hook up a reward and shipping costs!

i downclimbed off the top of Stuart the other day, crossing the usual snow patches at the top of the Cascadian. Approach shoes and a nut tool worked just fine. my partner was glad to have an axe, but did it in tennis shoes.

Leavenworth Mount Stuart, North Ridge Gendarme rappel station (original route) July 11, 2013 Replaced two 1/4" bolts with 3/8" stainless and a Fixe stainless anchor. Good for another 100 years!

We descended this yesterday and tried a new variation to the traditional Sherpa descent that I'd seen some anchors on previously. We walked one major notch east/past the Sherpa Glacier col to an existing rap station (blue webbing on a horn). We did 3 raps straight down, scrambled about 200' across an easy ledge (east to a slung block with green cord), then did about 5 more raps (down and to rappeller's left) to just above the 'schrund...then did one downclimb (lower first person over schrund, then down climb easily with the one set of axe/pons). all raps are done with a single 60m rope and are mostly rope stretchers. we wandered down the Sherpa medial moraine from there, avoiding the rest of the steep snow. the raps are rubble strewn down low, but the anchors are bomber.

Leavenworth Clamshell Cove crag July 8, 2013 Replaced 5 top rope anchors. Inspected all remaining anchors. Didn't bring a rope, so I didn't replace any of the lead bolts. Don't put epoxy on the top of bolts!

You might also check out the cragging at Hatcher Pass.

I was up there the last 4 days. 6-8" of new snow above 9000' in the past few days. old trail above 8800' is largely obscured. managed to find running water at 8700' with some searching. parking is still in short supply, but a short bit of shovel work would fix that. Road is fine, just drive slowly.

and the toilets are no more up there (no funding). take blue bags. Camping across the Easton, under the Squak, is a nice option. so is the route.

It is private property and not open for camping. Please inform those that you know who camp there.

24" picket 48" sling girth hitched onto it Knot tied in the sling at the mid-point Locking carabiner on the sling.

Found!

I think I left my Grivel Thor hammer (it's red) at JY Crag after doing some bolt replacement the other day. If anyone finds it, I'd love to get it back. Kurt

Leavenworth 6/2013 JY Crag Ragweed, 5.9** Replaced all 3 lead bolts Domestic Dome BS, 5.6 Replaced 1 bolt plus one new anchor bolt. 5.8 sport route above BS, tightened loose hangers and replaced one hanger. One new anchor bolt. Other stuff done recently by others: Fourth of July - Blue Moon, fully rebolted Jello Tower anchors Some stuff at Rattlesnake Rock

a wet sleeping bag is a miserable sleeping bag, regardless of the fill material. keep it dry in the first place.

I'll try to get to it next week when I get back from Alaska.

Sorry to hear about the accident. This is the topo that I've drawn up over the years. The topo in Selected climbs is incorrect because it was based on a photo taken from a suboptimal angle. Kurt

No overhanging drytool caves to speak of. There are some steep mixed routes and a couple overhanging drytool climbs up at the Rap Wall below The Tooth at Snoqualmie Pass.