Sphinx

Yer old.

Said 'crowd' consists of one. I'll bet Distel goes. Thanks for the info.

I have seen a few bobcats/lynx in the OR wilderness. Don't know which they were, though. Cool to watch.

Yup, I certainly haven't been exposed to your perspective! You need to be more outspoken, Dwayner. Too many people have that attitude, apparently including your buddy Dope, uh, Pope. With what?.....dude. The adults are trying to have a discussion here. You two please run outside and play. When did you ever contribute to a 'discussion'? I don't mean pagetops, either.

Have fun pooping. I'll be climbing, if you need me. This is cascadeclimbers.com, not cascadepoopers.com.

What's your point, Allison? An alpinist has different needs than a camper. For example, a camper expects to be warm and comfy at night. An climber on a hard route wants it to be survivable. Iodine pills weigh about as much as a mouthful of water. Saves you a pound. Sleep in ALL your clothes for god's sake, you'll be warmer. Haven't we all discussed this before? BTW marylou, do you do any climbing at all?

I'm sure that if we were back in the good ol' days Dwhiner and Pop would be bitching about something else. Perhaps the loss fo nailing. Or the lack of respect that the good climbers gave them.

God has spoken. Take note, Tex. SEE!

No, the function that determines the shape of the cams is the same for all cams. The only thing that changes between companies is the cam angle. But as far as I know, all cams have a constant cam angle, giving each one ONE strength.

Lame J_B

Yes, Dwayner is guilty....and I AM GUILTY of stirring a bucket of shit. It is not, however, my fault, nor is it Dwayner's fault, that the bucket of shit exists in the first place! And you are forced by a vaguely humanoid power up in the sky (ie God) to stir that shit?

Hell, look at this thread, it proves Matt's point. What started out as a discussion of caves has now become another Dwayner-bolt thread. Pathetic. Dwayner, you suck.

Metolius cams are very easy to fix, I'm not sure why. But in my experience, I have struggled with Metolius cams much more than with Camalots.

I might be wrong, but I thought the entire principle behind cams is that the angle between the cam lobe and the rock is constant through the entire expansion range. If what the manufacturers say is true, then the cam angle is constant (it is physically possible), and the cam will have the same holding power no matter how much it's retracted. If I am wrong, then the cam manufacturers could improve their cams by using the correct shape. Wild Country says that they use a constant cam angle of 13.75 degrees, and they mention nothing about it changing depending on the degree of retraction. Do you have verification of your theory Tex? I'd love to see it.

Fuck you, dipshit, don't speak for me. I don't feel 'guilty' when Dwayner posts a photo essay implying that sport climbers are gay. His 'questioning' is so ridiculous that the only emotion I feel is disdain for such a terminal loser. Speak for yourself, not for others. Now fuck off.

Captain Morty Flint.

This sentiment is false. The design of a cam means that the low end of its 'acceptable range' is as small as you can retract the thing. There is no physical reason for a cam not to work as a cam when 'overcammed'. I don't know why people keep spouting that cams work like nuts when they are overcammed. They don't. The same physics is at work. How can it 'pop' when all lobes are contacting the rock and acting normally? The only problem with an overcammed piece is that it is difficult to remove. The strength of the placement CANNOT be compromised, according to Newton and the rest of those geeks. Personally, I like a cam that is reasonably deep, but still easily removed, with the lobes retracted between 1/2 and 3/4 of its range. We should get rid of the 'cam as a nut' argument, it is nonsensical.

Yup, astoundingly well "thouhgt-out". Yer ethics have been left in the dust sometime in the 80s. I agree with everything in your book of rules EXCEPT that you should only place bolts on lead by hand. Sport routes are legit, and are here to stay. Keep trolling, chuffer!

interesrting topic. But I firmly disagree. There are people who are better than others. And they desurve to be admired for their skill, acomlishments, hard work or what have you. Granted this does not make any person perfect. and said person my commit a crime, or cheet on their spouse or whatever... but they still have that skill or talent. Not every person who writes will be a Shakespear, not every person who thinks is an Einstien. not every woman who climbs will become as acomplished as Lynn Hill or Steph Davis. That does not mean that we can not love what we do, it just means that there are those that truely are head and shoulders above the rest. If we do not recognize that we lower standerds to the lowest commen denominaterm, and actualy lower our capacity for sucess as humans. my .02$ Um, Muffy, I hate to break it to you, but you're agreeing with Wayne. Recognise and admire those at the top, but don't worship them. They are but people, not gods.

Pope, nobody really gives a shit what you think. Especially since neither you nor Dwayner ever gives a logical, thought-out method for deciding which bolts are poperly placed and which aren't. Wasn't it Harding who compared your views to a puritan's aversion to and avoidance of sex? Sport climbing is here to stay, no matter what a pair of crusty old farts post on the internet. You're out-dated, get used to it. I'll raise a stink when I see sport routes anywhere other than a sport crag. I'll also raise a stink when sport routes are inappopriately bolted considering what kind of route they are. An example is Flagstone. Spray away, just be aware that nobody cares and nobody will be 'converted' to your religion.

THE BIBLE IS THE ONLY BOOK NOT WORTH READING!!!!

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I've got a big mouth and I climb every week.....5.2 at the gym.