glassgowkiss

colin, the new cm leash seems to be quite nice. i haven't climb with them, but when i tried it it was easy to clip in and out. i use andreoids, even for alpine. for less steep or to plunge i just use it unclipped. last trip i climbed for a couple of days leashless. far, far better, specially for mixed. there is always a danger of dropping your tool, so add an extra pair of these bd plastic clippers , just for your tools. you can modify any tool to climb leashless, lot's of climbers in the rockies do. i will be making my rages into leashless this week. hope it helps....

caveat your clown

whatever i am out. pope said a psycho ass puke biatch??

now we are talking bolts, no bolts, but she's got nice mamelion protruberances

pope, take a chill pill, don't you have anything else to do. everyone leaves trail, even you. couple of facts: 1. you want to tr these routes. as far as access from above, it's not that easy as far as i know. so you'll have to thrash through some stuff with your crampons, so how is this no impact in your mind. oh wait, you actually don't ice/mix climb, the only time you wear crampons is on flat glacier, so how would you know. 2. you are arguing about estetics, nothing more nothing less. ROCK DOESN'T ABSO-FUCKING-LUTELLY CARE IF THERE ARE BOLTS OR NOT. like original bolts on the nose turned into rusted crap and eventually they some of them fell off, these will too in 25 or 50 years and in 100 there won't be a fucking trace, so why so worry about it. 3. people bolted for decades now. so with the same energy and vengance why don't you start your bitching about routes like liberty crack, thin red line, the nose (fuck pretty much every route in yosemite). oh fuck, even alska. such a pair of weak sport climbers like jack tackle and donini did place a few of them on cobra pillar. so why don't you complain about that too? 4. climbing with crampons and ice tools on thin ice or rock scratches it, hence it leaves a "trace" for the next person. so why don't you start complaining about that? 5. if your brain can't figure it out people were trying also point out the fact, that on a scale of things bolts are a minor issue. compared to acress of artificial lakes, clearcutts, forest road construction, acid rain, 40% of population without health insurance and many many others a few pieces of metal on a chossy snowed up rock are a very minor issue. so there, go drink a beer, go climb something, go ride a bike or whatever you decide to do, go do it and enjoy. stop fucking bugging people, we all know how you feel. if you don't like what's going on near alpentall- don't fucking go there, go somewhere else. there is plenty of mountains around. and if this pisses you off so much quit climbing and do something else. i like climbing and i don't give a ratts fuck what you or other people think about styles, ethics and other bullshit. i will use any style that i see fit and i will enjoy every fucking second of it. so there, now go and punch your clown- r

pope you just don't know when to shut the fuck up. why don't you get your pansy ass down here to b-ham and i will give you something to cry about looser. you are just another sheep shagger.

pope, the question is very relevant. you are voicing your opinion on the subject you know nothing about. you also stated you started climbing in 1984, so what? i started climbing in 1980, which gives me better perspective then you have. newsfalsh punter- things change, get on with it. just because some forms of climbing don't fit your vision doesn't mean they are less or more legit. there is plenty of route potencial, for all styles. notice these climbs are on a small cliff and not in the alpine terain? so where is the problem? anyway, to argue with you any further would be a complete waste of my time, so i am out of this.

Yeah...what kurt said!!! CO is for punks! Conversation w/ typical boulderite: "Hi, my name is bob, i'm from boulder....did i mention i'm from boulder...hey, back in boulder, where i'm from, we gots all that...i'm a co native' Word on the street is colorado aint the center of the universe!!!!!!!! hi my name is bob i am from boulder. did i say i live in boulder? check out my $4000 mountainbike on the roof on my suv my parents bought me for my high school graduation. i really care about this planet and place i live.... boulder, so i can drive my gass guzzling lexus suv to the coffee shop. sometimes i will ride my $4000 bike, but only in boulder, so everyone in boulder can see what i am riding."

yeah, some of my friends moved to colorado too, so what? i am not talking about climbers only. i am talking about people who live in boulder in general. you see, there is a group of very good, motivated and fun indyviduals there. the problem is the number of spray wanna-be, who (for all they care) should live in nebraska or iowa. their idea of great outdoors is going to your local coffee shop and try to look cool, drink their wanna-be cappucino (btw- like 90% of the coffee shops sell wothless swill for very much $$$). PNW isn't great either this way- trust me- i have waged my war on this site several times and as far as i know i am the only person kicked out of here twice. werd

look you psycho- ass puke puff. you aid-gabage dead animal raper. i am sure you smoked all the local clasic solo and then you moved on to canada and sent all the hard lines there too. i am sure you did os every route on ww1 wall, you can solo every m8 and wi6+ is just a stroll in a park for you. so what is exactly YOUR contribution to climbing? all i hear is you camplain about bolts. so why don't you show us how it should be done? why don't you go and put up some 5.13XXX? i forgot- you don't climb. you just wank. fuck you and fuck your spew. you are just another throat callus sloafing jizz gurgler. why don't you shove i big donkey kong up your gob and another up your rectum you miserable waste of human skin. now i feel better.....

a very good climber said once (during quarry ice fest)- colorado- florida with hills. it's so fuckin' true. i am sure it has some cool climbing and good skiing, but get over yourself people. as far as skiing goes n. cascades have 10 times the back coutry. vail is not a world class destination for ice. even rifle isn't so special. newsflash- around canmore there are 15 places like that, so there is no reason to pop big wood about your little playground. and rudy is right, after about 12 hours in boulder i was ready to go postal....EVERYONE IS SO FUCKING COOL THERE (NOT!). tlg- telluride is still driving distance from boulder. on the top of that you get people from texas

I TOTALY AGREE yeah, right. in your dreams. i lived in bend for 7 years, so don't fucking tell me what it is like in orygun. it's more like you kill your sheep before fucking it- safe sex in orygun- you don't get all scratched up

chicago is kind of like that too.

mattp, my point was that the whole system with granting concession to 1 or 2 or 3 companies in national park stinks. there is a universal system used in the entire world, canada included. the system grants guiding access to anybody who is certified by uiaa standards. so if you want to be guided to the top of matternhorn, mont blanc or alpamyo and you have a working relationship with a guide you can hire them and they can work for you all over this planet. the exeption is us national parks, where this system is not respected. american alpine institute is guiding people up on aconcagua, in bolivia, patagonia and few other locations. they also do trips in the alps. i wonder what would guides started to say if guides from the US were barred from guiding in national parks in europe or south america, nepal or other locations? hence i think the whole discussion regarding access to one or 2 or 3 companies is just another spin on the same old story. i was talking to a couple of the guides and they are pissed of, since one of them is trying to offer 7 summits. that leaves denali out of the question, since it is a national park and again the concession is granted to only a handfull of the services. these guides start to get quite pissed off at the whole situation and they are voicing their opinions louder then ever. the proposed solution is to close their markets to the guides from the usa, untill there is a change in the policy in national parks. i really don't care one way or the other, since i don't guide, nor i use guided services. but in all fairness it really buggs me looking at this situation, where the whole issue is regulated by strong arm tactics of lobbying power of some services and government. regardless of the number of companies granted permits in raineer np, it will remain the same old system. all i am saying it is time to join the rest of the world and use the same rules.

now, before you reply think. granting a concession to one or 2 or even 3 companies is a socialst thinking and socialist way of economy. so your comment should be treated as a brain fart.

yeah, i moved here as i fit right in. that just confirms what i am saying.

belive it or not i agree with you on this 100%

it would be time to join the rest of the world as far as guiding and access issues. USA is only country in the world right now using protectionism policy in regard of regulating guiding in national parks. even in canadian guides certified by uiaa can guide without special permit. the same format is in europe, where uiaa guides can guide parties naywhere in the world, exept for national parks in the united states. so this issue is larger then just who gets the piece of pie on raineer or denali. the whole system has to change. while my visit to poland and slovakia this summer i had a talk with a very good guide (does a lot of trips to nepal and pakistan). last summer he issued a request to PZA (polish climbing association) to prohibit guiding by any guide from the us in poland. more, there are similar sentiments among some british guides.

ok according to someone who sub-contracts for seattle city light the road past newhalem will not be open before february. there is a chance this road will remain closed up to a year, depends on the slope stability. if the material was pushed into the river bed it would level it completly, so they have to truck it out and it will take a few months. on the top of that, there is a chance they will have to blast the whole side of the mountain to prevent further slides. aperently they will also build a retaining wall, but not untill the whole issue if slope stability is resolved. this sucks, since there is no chance of climbing around colonial/pyramid this winter.

no i am serous. when you fly into seattle it's always a cultural shock, specially from europe.

i agree with you 100 %. and this is what we could do. someone should write a letter and post it here (i am a very bad writer). we can print it and send it to nps. they count something like 600 people behind each signed letter. this could work as far as letting them know climbing is here and should stay this way...

all you had to say is MILF

some of the posters here (like pope) just point to the fact, that besides having pretty cool backcountry PNW sports: 1. some of the highest concentration of stupid people 2. some of the largest numbers of ugly people 3. even larger number of bad dressed people "i see fat people, they are everywhere..."

you guys are just juvie morons. fucking wankers. whoever poaches project is a fuckwad wanker. whoever doesn't agree with my statement is a fucking wanker. and pope- just go fucking flash all these routes, show us how it's done or shut your yapping gob the fuck up. you piss me off more then anybody on this site. you are a dolt, lame wanker and i can outclimb you anytime. you are pathetic weak wankstain.

big snow dump not only effected avi conditions, but also driving. people are getting stuck in Ghost and are digging for hours at the time. there was monster truck or two, making it into south ghost and north ghost is a good question. you can make it to the bottom of big hill and try to walk from there. whiteman falls is in and the road is open till Dec 01. other option could be climbing south, in waterton park. as far as polar circus- it's not the big slope you have to worry, it's the small slope on pencil bypass. it get loaded with spindrift. there is no possibility of protecting this slope is it slides. why is this so hard to comprehand by some of the posters on this board?