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glassgowkiss

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Everything posted by glassgowkiss

  1. hey scott, good to hear you are climbing! - i think that pitch is more like M5 at the most.
  2. i use rock empire harness. light, comfy and very cheap! best buy for your$$. MEC sells it.
  3. "But seriously, those Australian and Canadian chicks were hot! " "If only she knew about the sheep..." beeeeeeeeeee
  4. A-strain. that's a good tick. now young skywalker- don't get any frostbite before going to high peaks. how was suffer machine- did you do that bolt ladder free?
  5. like the song says: stary, stary night....
  6. smelling the glove mike?
  7. very fun route. 2 notes. while starting the ice corner pretty substantial "spindrift" hit us. i would be cautious going up there after a snow fall. after rapping down west ridge- i would recommend another way down. from the summit rap to the snow gulley between main summit and south buttress pinnicle. then just walk down the gulley and do 2 more raps on the bottom to the snow basin.
  8. hard to say about the conditions. there was a bit more snow then normal, but on the other hand the snow was very stable in february. i looked at the peaks from the visitor center lot. a lot of blue ice. nf of athabasca was blue, a lot of ice on andromeda. as other ascents go: wild thing on chephren was done in a nice 3 day climb. also asteroid alley was done in february. a few parties climbed Slipstream. There was a new rote on nf of white pyramid, to the right of rality bath.
  9. i think this is 8b or 8b+ in frankenjura.
  10. http://www.boulderrausch.de/blackball1.htm
  11. ride'em cowboy! fucking choice! internet rules. yeah, typing out of jail. btw, there were not ice climbing trips to the east coast, baaaaaaaa fucking a, i hit 1000 post, i am an internet junkie!
  12. like we talked about. proper footbeds, and muscle balancing.
  13. hey, what's up everyone working or what?
  14. check you mail, tried to call but no answer.
  15. posted some ice porn from my last trip in ice galery.
  16. these ticks are easy to spot, compared to these on east coast and in europe- they are much, much smaller. during tick season i have a change of cloths in the car, so when i get back i strip everything, change all my cloths, put the climbing cloths into a plastic bag, sinch it and wash when i get back. getting rocky mountain spoted fever is no fun
  17. need partner for wed/thursday next week. i can ropegun, but pls be legit. if i don't know you have your resume ready. i'd rather solo then go with an idiot. i'm a total dick...
  18. check you mail
  19. nothing to write about. one trip up on stanley glacier headwall and a whole bunch of moderates.
  20. so why didn't you go to the rockies?
  21. after climbing with darts for 2 years now, i think this is the best crampon i have ever had!
  22. so the rockies didn't suck at all. as the matter of fact i enjoyed 2 straight weeks of sunshine with some of the most stable snow conditions i have ever seen in the past 13 years. some of the routes (field in particular) are chipped to shit, so you end up climbing ladders. Pillsner is in 4+ shape, Even Thomas Creek routes are WI3 at the most. both left and right weeping wall are WI3-4 at the most. ddin't go to the ghost, so i don't know what shape the routes are in. Janez and i did French Reality on wed. The most amazing line! there was another party on Nemesis, so we had the whole headwall to ourselves. the route wasn't chipped to shit, so you actually had to swing your tools now and then. after doing several routes on this amazing wall i am convinced this is THE BEST area for doing hard long mix and ice routes. the exposure is amazing, the lines are superb and i am exhausted every time i climb something on this wall. acid howl is not in, but all the rest is. nemesis (first hand info) is in great shape, so is suffer machine. the routes just to the left of suffer machine are not in anymore, but Mr Hullot area is in fine shape. looked like French Toast was in too. team Sample/Slawinski/Wallsh did FWA of Mt Alberta in fine 3 day effort (via Japanese route), so one of the last unclimbed peaks in winter received proper winter ascent- congrats!
  23. i see the weather is still shit since the dicussion is about gear instead of latest route conditions.
  24. there is absolutely no ice this year in the rockies. avi hazard is through the roof, the weather is total misery +2C and rain mixed with snow all the time. the mosquitos are out too. stay home, don't come here. specially republican voting suv driving money hungry shit for brains seattle fucks . we don't need your type here
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