chris

Because the right is all about the love. Sure.

I've said it before, but I'll repeat it again. My biggest complaint about the Mountaineers, Mazamaz, WAC, BoeAlps, and similar clubs is that they teach cookie-cutter "recipe" problem solving skills. "If you find yourself in X situation, then do Y." Climbing is rarely so simplistic. That complexity was the draw for many of us when we started out. These clubs seem to churn out graduates who believe the know EXACTLY what should be done, and refuse to consider other options, possibilities, or alternatives. Many club instructors I've spoken with don't seem to teach that nuance, that there are other ways "to skin the cat," and that good judgement is based on experience which is determined by days in the field. And they don't pass it on to their students. And so their students march out of their courses with uncompromising opinions gained with no more logical an explanation than, "That's what I was taught to do in the Basic Climbing Course this summer." No course alone can teach judgement without adequate time spent practicing, succeeding, and sometimes making mistakes and failing. The goal is recognize and correct the small mistakes before they build into big mistakes that lead to unacceptable consequences. That's why NOLS courses last 30 bloody consecutive days. And we must make a distinction between clubs, outdoor education, and professional guide services. The consumer demands are different and the services provided are different. I think if we want to start a discussion about NOLS/Outward Bound, or AMGA/RMI/professional guiding, those should be sperated from the clubs. If we want to compare them, that should be a seperate thread as well.

Well said, Joseph. It seems that a lot of climbers over-engineer redundancy into systems where it isn't necessary. For many of them these are systems they were taught as beginners, and they've never questioned them.

The same ST discussion is taking place here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=271445&msg=271974#msg271974

Another acces point is above Mirkwood and the viewpoint. A faint trail crosses scree slopes to access the glacier. There was some nice climbing to be had there in September.

I agree with you Matt - the top pitches of Dreamer are definetely worth climbing. I want to do a little more exploring on the Green Giant, including SS and that alternative northern descent that you told me about.

Yep, but I hear more stories about people bailing on Dreamer than rapping on SS. Thanks for the check-up, Mr. Cash.

Dreamer, Green Giant Buttress, Darrington So a couple of seasons ago I cut the tat and replaced it with chains and quicklinks up to the top of pitch 7. Can anyone tell me how they're holding up?

Dude, check your pm's

Steve, "technically excellent, morally repulsive is not a comment about this conversation, or this rescue. Its an automatic footnote that is added to the end of every one of Oly's posts. Relax.

Joseph, Black Diamond is always interested in testing out hypothesis like this, and they have the lab equipment to do so. If you're interested I'll send them an email.

Places I've skied with my dog: Heather Ridge (across from Stevens Pass Ski Area) backcountry around Mt. Baker

I think the blog editor made a big mistake in not distinguishing between the interviewer and the interviewed. Also, this article was special-written for Outside magazine, who has a markedly different audience then, say, Alpinist.

From http://www.nps.gov/archive/mora/general/pets.htm: Note: I've been told personally by a Ranger that "Do not leave your pet unattended at any time" includes your car. To be really clear, I was told that it isn't alright to leave a dog unattended in a car. The Ranger went on to tell me that cars have been broken into by Law Enforcement Rangers to rescue animals in danger (usually from heat exhaustion/stroke) on warm days.

From what I remember (Mike Gauthier, you out there?), ten ten-day IBPs (Incidental Business Permits) will be awarded annually to IFMGA/UIAGM guides who can also meet MRNP's liability insurance requirement.

The RMI "cook shack" and the current public shelter were built by the CCC and the WPA, respectively, and are listed as historic landmarks. The story I've heard is that the Butler Shelter (that little a-frame) and the RMI "bread box" will be removed, the rangers moved to the "cook shack", the public shelter renovated and handed over to the guide services, and a new public shelter built at the site of the "bread box." This is complete heresay.

GGK, I finally sat down and watched the footage you posted. Thanks for sharing. It is sad and horrible and sickening. I still stand by my original assertion, that involvement and standing witness to this will produce more results than attempting to isolate them will.

Americans are killing Iraqi and Afghanistani civilians. So have Canadians, British, and Polish. Should I stop buying everything American too? Fact is, improving the economic standard of living in a country encourages more revolution and change than economic sanctions. Visiting a country does more to show opportunity to a suppressed culture than staying away. Sanctions and closed borders haven't done a bit of good for North Korean or Iranian farmers. I've been to China - I can tell you about the racism I witnessed against minorities and how the education system makes no mention of Tianamin Square uprising, and has effectively eliminated it from the cultural history of a nation. I can tell you about how many people I saw practicing their faiths openly - even though it eliminates them from becoming a member of the Communist Party (avowed atheism is a requirement), and therefore unable to get a government job (the biggest employer in China). I can tell you about the damage I saw first-hand as the Chinese goverment builds as many dams as it can to create hydro-electric power and flood control. And I can tell you about the Muslim noodle restaurant I went to, almost daily, in Chengdu, sometimes just to have a cup of tea and watch the owner make noodles by hand for each order. The conversations I had with the owner's son in pidgin english, who was going to university to become a doctor. The friendly assistance of the Sichuan Mountaineering Association office. And the generosity of the ethnic tibetan family I stayed with in Siguniang National Park, and how my partner helped their daughter with her english lessons when she was home for the weekend from school. I can tell you that my computer was manufactured somewhere in China, and that someone is able to send their child to school because they work in that factory. So I'm taking Mandarin lessons this winter. And I won't give the Chinese goverment one more penny than I absolutely must - so that eliminates any trips that I have to work with the China Mountaineering Association, since they're just an element of the Army. I'll help support the noodle restaurant, Mr. Ma, and Mr. Wong in Siguniang National Park with my business. And their families. I'll tell everyone about the incredible diversity that is in China - both good and bad. I already participate in the call for Tibetan autonomy. Now I'll also speak up for the rest of China too. So I'm going back to China.

You can also contact Carolyn through her guide service, Suntoucher Guides, www.suntoucher.com

I haven't guided in Nepal but I do run trips to South America. I speak spanish and do all the guiding, but hire local staff to assist with reservations, hiring a car and driver, porters, and camp managers/cooks (when necessary). The rate you paid for your trip included the cost of hiring logistics staff. Likewise, your tip to the guide can be expected to also tip the logistics staff. I tip all my logistics staff - driver, cook, porters, and any local guides I hire to assist. I've had clients tip the staff directly, and also give me a larger tip with instructions on how to disberse it. Otherwise, I tip the staff just like I outlined above. Everyone starts at 20% of their rate, and that tip is only lowered for poor service. I usually find a good moment to let my clients know on a trip that I intend to tip our staff, and how. Most clients appreciate being involved in the process. Sometime mid-trip I start sounding out my clients' satisfaction with our staff - I don't always see everything. Talk to your guide about it - a good guide should be polite and comfortable talking about gratuity.

I recommend that you tip your guide like you would tip a waiter. 10-20% of the rate you paid the guide service.

From the NPS - Mt. Rainier Website:

Wow. Like a lot of people have said, I don't agree with Joeseph on a lot of access/climbing issues, but I don't think this post was appropriate or called for. Joseph is an opinionated, crochety curmudgeon, but also a strong climber and tireless advocate for climbers freedoms, and I'm deeply grateful for his voice and opinion (not to mention his hardwork). I only wish he spoke more often and in more venues!

Wait, I thought it was only gri-gris for the TR. Alpinefox is a rockstar and would only go there to lead, whip, and boulder, so he would be expected to use his own belay device. I actually like the pre-rigged gri-gris (Couloir, you're not expected to bring your own).

You can still get the topo by stopping by the North Cascade Mountain Guides (google their website) in Mazama. The route is well bolted and worth doing. Its also a great introduction to the Goat Wall rock.