chris

My information may be outdated, but as of the end of the climbing season last year, a day use permit was not required to ascend the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, which is a climber's trail used to gain Iceberg Lake and the East Face, East Buttress, and Mountaineers' Routes on Whitney. That is a big day - most people go ahead and camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake or Iceberg Lake. An overnight permit is required to do so, but they are easier to gain than on the hiker's trail along the South Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The South Fork also requires permits for day use. However last year climbers were also being asked to voluntarily "register" if they were accessing the North Fork for day use activity, which sounds ominously like the beginnings of another quota to me.

Best burgers and beer - Archer's Alehouse in Fairhaven Best breakfast - Old Town Cafe Best Coffee - the Black Drop Best wine and appetizers - Temple Bar For all the smack-talking I gave Bellingham, I'm sure missing it right about now...

It is so cool to see how far Blake has come. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=18&Number=277160&Searchpage=1&Main=18802&Words=&topic=1&Search=true#Post277160

Check out the Mountain Khakis - Feathered Friends has them in stock. http://www.mountainkhakis.com

I think you need to visit China.

CJ, what about the 3 Sigma testing that BD does? I do know a few engineer-type climbers who insist on purchasing BD products because of the 3 Sigma test standard. P.S. If you scroll down that quote, I included BD's description of the 3 Sigma test standard.

What absolute bullsh*t. (OK this is inflammatory, but the OP got my ire.) You already buy a number of products that you don't worry about that are produced in China, like your computer. "I asked him if they are tested upon return to the US and he was not prepared to give me a straight answer. He said BD employees are making the cams in China...I asked him if the employees came from the US and he could not give me an answer. With all the crap coming out of China nowadays and the seeming lack of quality control on this end in America I really wonder about BD and their products....." He wasn't prepared to give you a straight answer? Really? You mean he didn't have a notebook full of answers to stupid bloody questions like, "is my cam tested when it comes back from China?" and "do the Chinese factory employees come from the US?" Quality control issues from Chinese factories are the results of American manufacturers insisting on lower production costs, not because of post-production testing or the nationality of the employees. Companies that pay a reasonable cost for production aren't having problems. What the original poster clearly dosn't know is that BD owns its factories in China, and BD employees from the corporate office live in China and work with the factory management team to make sure that not only your precious bloody cams are up to spec, but that the employees are treated fairly. How do I know this? I asked two reps - so I wonder who the hell he spoke to.

I sometimes add a single or double shoulder length sling to the first piece at or after a roof to allow my partner to french free/A0 through the difficulty. On a couple of longer routes I regularly climb I even bring an alpine aider to clip and provide a little more insurance.

Hey Wayne, on Mongo Ridge, what was your technique for the bits you rope-soloed?

Kong makes a nifty - and far cheaper - adjustable daisy buckle that you then have to string with 8mm cord and add a biner. I have a pair and completely dig them. I got mine from Pagan Mountaineering in Moab.

Pemberton-Lillooet?

Its pretty grim. I'll add pictures on Wednesday. I hiked into Mt. Gilbert three days ago with two guests, intending to climb the North Couloir. We found the middle 100'/30m, in the throat of the couloir completely melted out. There is typically a 20-30' (call it 5-9m) bare section in normal years. The melt-off from the upper half is turning the lower half into a dirt-streaked bowling alley, and the recent warm temps haven't helped. Before we could look at Thompson, we discovered that one of us had an equipment malfunction (note to self: always make sure borrowed crampons work on the borrowers boots before the trip). From what I could see, the Smrynz Couloir was definetely out, which is typical, but the Knudtson and the Harrington may still be climbable. The Harrington looked very possible - we got the best look of it, but still didn't see the last 300' or so. So we hiked out and ran north, climbing Crystal Crag on the way, and then climbing the North Couloir on North Peak. This route is still in great condition, with steeper neve up the entire right side until 200' short of the notch. The left side and top features lower angled, but bullet-proof, bare ice. Rockfall was very minimal, and all debris fall down the double fall-line to the left side of the couloir. So stay right. A friend and co-worker reported that similar conditions made the V-Notch and U-Notch unclimbable as well. A large bergschrund on the V-Notch prevented access, and rockfall in both couloirs convinced him to climb rock routes instead. Conclusion: Mt Thompson may by climbable via the Knudtson or Harrington, but I wouldn't count on it. North Couloir on the North Peak is in great condition, and will last the season. North Couloir on Mt Gilbert is out of condition, but may come back in when temperatures drop below freezing (minimizing the rockfall and creating water ice in the throat). The 'schrund on V-Notch may have closed it for the season, but the U-Notch may come back when temps drop enough to still the rockfall. All these warm temps and stable weather days have convinced locals to work on the big alpine routes. I found myself and a guest on Starlight last week with 9 other people on the summit. 5 were accomplishing the Thunderbolt-Sill Palisade traverse.

RMI used to do this on Rainier, but I've heard that times have changed (and the guide:guest ratio has improved) and this practice has stopped. When they did "bag" someone at a rest break, it would occur if and only if 1) there wasn't a guide immediately available to turn around, 2) the guest was able to remain comfortable and warm, and 3) the guest was trusted to follow the guide's directions about the borders of the "safe" area. Guides would even carry up an expedition sleeping bag, typically one for every three rope teams, to facilitate this.

Bug is my hero-for-the-day.

The face is huge - there's room for at least two or three more distinct routes - does it really prove anything if one route is a bolted direct line? Edit: I've been hoping to go back this fall and repeat the original solo route, roped.

Kevin, I don't need to climb IB to know it takes pro across a bunch of those pitches. Get real you're comparing a few feet on one pitch with 22 pitches on another. John's in, how about you...? Joseph, I have to call bull on your assertion that IB takes gear across "a bunch of those pitches". I have climbed IB and I don't recall see any locations that a bolt was placed near a feature that could have been used for gear. The fellow who accomplished the FA of the West Face did so by soloing up to about 5.8 in difficulty, and zig-zags across the face. His line shares only 5-6 pitches of IB. I have nothing but respect for you, but in this instant your assertion does not match with my experience on the route. Chris

It is dry. And hot. Seriously, its looking like, and feeling like, a typical July.. The lower Owens Valley has already reached 100 degree F on multiple days. I've driven over Tioga Pass three times already, and there only route I can see with some snow to block climbing is the N buttress on Tenaya. I've climbed Langley and Whitney these last 10 days, and there is no snow on either routes. On Whitney, the E face and E Butt are as dry as a bone. The Mountaineers route still has a patch of snow up high, but you avoid it easily coming up and down. no ice axe or crampons required. I'm heading into Williamson and Tyndall on Wednesday, and will post more when I get back. Cheers, Chris

Alpaholic, your quotes are only relevant for the Whitney Trail corridor, and is handled seperately from the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek (which accesses the east face of Whitney, the east, north, and west faces of russel, and Keeler and Crook needles). There is the possiblitity of getting a walki- in permit for the climber's side of Whitney. You;d be better off calling ahead, tell them very specifically what your trying to do, and finding out for yourself. P.S. An alternative campsite (not very suitable for Whitney climbs) is at Alpine Lake, for climbs of the Fishhook arete, mithral, etc. P.S.S. sorry about the mispelling, but iMac's suck.

Construction harnesses also have the conection in the back to keep the front (where tools and material have to be handled) free from obstructions. I think its also simple to say that climbers take a bigger accepted level of risk.

just talked to burdo on thursday night at the gym. he's got fliers up in vw and feathered friends announcing the book release, partay is in mazama - hosted by the guide service there, himself and vw. will have food, beverages, his book and more next weekend (16 and 17). in the meantime, he's working away at the other book too for wa. pass. hi blake! montanapup!

I'll be looking around during June and August - I'll keep you in mind. Chris Edit: I forgot to mention - theres now a staple-back guidebook for Eastern Sierra ice (winter and alpine), written by SP Parker - you can get a copy at Wilson's in Bishop.

Whatever.

How about any single-pitch OW routes? Boulder problems?

Sunny, Just my two cents, but I'd make the following gear recommendations: I wouldn't use VB barriers for your hands and feet (I've never even heard of them for your hands). Since much of your climbing will be below freezing, a waterproof coating for a sleeping bag is unnecessary - in fact, you want your bag to allow your condensation to escape. The Denali climbing season has 24 hours of light - no one brings a headlamp. Since the pilots do a mass sled carry at the beginning and end of every season, I'd recommend simply bringing a second pair of cheap aluminium ski poles and a bunch of cord, webbing, and bungees to rig a sled at the Kahiltna Airstrip. If your serious about using skies, these boots aren't appropriate, and the One Sports and Spantik won't need overboots.

There was a great article a few years ago about the running culture amongst the indigenous communities in Copper Canyon, Mexico. They routinely hold races from village to village - up to ultra-marathon distances - that includes kicking along a ball the size of a softball. A few of their best runners were brought up to the States to run a marathon, and given new running shoes as part of the program. They tried the shoes on, and then immediately prior to the race, removed them and put on their sandals instead. They all placed high, I think one even won the race. I've seen Nepali porters' feet (and the bare feet of people from Thailand, Mexico, and Ecuador) - and I wouldn't call them mangled. They're heavily calloused, muscled, and gnarled from spending their entire lives in direct contact with the ground - not unlike the hands of a carpenter or a fisherman.