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Everything posted by chris
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Lillooet is forcasting a high of -4 on Friday!!! Jordop is obviously a "half-empty" kind of guy...
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Who regulates the camping? Is there a provincial park ranger station somewhere's? EDIT: Ahhh, the power of Google. After living in Jackson Hole and visiting Mazama a bunch, the rates weren't too rediculous. Just more than what I can afford. If I could justify spending for a little more comfort, I would!
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OK, so while I'm sitting here waiting for another draft of my dissertation to print out I flip through the Beckey III book (2nd ed), and on page 224 I notice on the map that a "private jeep road" accesses a lodge on Quiniscoe Lake. Can anyone tell me anything about it?
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dude has too much free time
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Thanks Paul, Don's link didn't work for me (said "server not found"), but the second link is.
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Wow! Not what I had heard - thanks for the link Paul. Sounds like ski cutting is mandatory until we're confident that this 12-18 inches of heavier snow has bonded.
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I can't help but notice that while Lillooet is having daytime highs around 5, Pemberton is around 1-2...
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Is there an online topo service similar to www.topozone.com for canada, especially bc?
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Snbowpack has bonded well to the surface in every report I've heard, which fits a cooling trend. Since the snow has fallen very consistently in the past 72 hours, I wouldn't expect distinct layers to have formed. HOWEVER: I will be looking for windpacking after last nights event, and watching the temperature tomorrow. In my injured state, I'm not supposed to go skiing or lift more than 10 lbs. But I plan on digging a pit near Mt. Baker on Friday, weather permitting. Of course, skis may be the most expedient method to travel to the pit site...
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I'm trying to find weather stats for late September on Baker, Shuksan, Boston Basin, and around Mt. Triumph. The forecast models on www.nws.noaa.gov would be fine, but I don't know how to look at past forecasts. Can anyone help?
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Thanks everyone, We're chuckling that everyone has assumed that my hesitation to see a MD has been financial. It's not! I'm well insured. In another career (almost seems like another life) I was a paramedic and I hate going to the ER for something that isn't an emergency. Friday was a Unviersity holiday so my regular MD (at the University clinic) wasn't available. Its not a big bulge - probably the size of my thumbprint - but I'm having to reduced it every hour or so that I'm standing up, so I'm probably going to get eval'ed for surgery. Its a simple outpatient procedure, and will only sit me out for a week. Thanks to everyone who posted here and PM'ed me too.
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Shouldn't have to verify anything, IMO. If you are on belay, you should be on belay... That said, if you have the time, it's not such a bad idea to wait for acknowledgement. I agree, but all too often I see teams at crags have the following script: The climber reaches the anchor, clips in, and says: "OK, OFF BELAY" "OK, YOUR BELAY IS OFF", his belayer responds, and proceeds to take the rope out of the belay device, or feeds several arm-lengths of slack out and lets go of the rope. A few minutes pass by as the climber unties from the rope, threads it through the anchor, and carefully reties back into the end. "OK, TAKE", the climber calls out. Wait a minute, my internal monkey cries out. Didn't he say "OFF BELAY" a few minutes ago? This new command results in any number of scenarios, some as disastrous as you can imagine. I've watched belayers scramble to suck in slack and re-thread ropes into belay devices. I've witnessed people getting dropped, near dropped, and die. Another reason I get scared climbing at crowded crags.
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I found 6mm to small to handle, and have compromised with 7mm static line instead. I rig it like you've described, with the knot on the "skinny" side of the rap ring. So far, I haven't had any problems.
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DPS is the shit. I'm doing what he says.
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Arc, With the road as damaged as it is, I think it will amazing luck if they get it open in time for a one night ascent. You better get ready for a 7+ day expedition!
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Carrie, we love your enthusiasm but your post implies a considerable lack in research and experience. I'd suggest at least looking at the Beckey guide, and if you have the time check at Alex Van Steen's and Mike Gauthier's guidebooks as well. That should straighten you out and answer all your questions. Not trying to be mean, and Good luck.
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Thanks for the confirmation, doc! Hmmm, this thread is less exciting than talking about shit, but more exciting then talking about Spokane?
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Dude, I didn't want my medical problems to be posted here anymore than you wanted to read them. If anything, this should have been down in the Training forum...
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I thought so, but I'm not the original poster!
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She does, but so does every other medical geek I know. I called a 1-800 triage nurse that WWU provides. Its doesn't qualify a trip to the ER yet. But no heavy lifting this weekend, so no trip to the Eastside to try to find dry rock or any good trail runs in the rain. MF (oops, there's that Tourettes kicking in). EDIT: And the nurse said I should limit my diet to liquids until I get checked out on Monday. Guess this means lots of trips to Archers!
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Getting her to stop cackling would be worth a trip to the ER!
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Ithasn't been an umbilical for 34+ years, it is a navel. And I don't have anything poking out now, that what reduced means.
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Great. I live in a two room apartment, sitting less than 50' away from montanapup, and she goes and puts my question here... Yeah, I seem to have a ventral hernia, located immediately above my navel. Something was pushing out (start thinking about hte scene in Alien) but during a little exploratory palpatation I reduced it. So now I'm wondering - is it an emergency, or can I wait to be checked out by the University Clinic on Monday?
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Mark - if this is a photo of a FA, how did the chalk get on the crack above the climber?
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I've simply been looking for 4 or more consecutive nights below the freezing point. For the last three years that's worked pretty well.