chris

We've done this to ourselves - its easy to argue that the government is inefficient, but that's not the case. We're demanding the government provide more services for more people with less money, and we're hitting the wall of what's possible. http://www.usatoday.com/money/perfi/taxes/2010-05-10-taxes_N.htm If you want to increase government services, don't support Eyman initiatives. Support state income taxes. Lets honestly address the issue - a system that relies on a healthy economy to generate state revenue is going to be in trouble during times of poor economic health, as with sales taxes in Washington. Simply demanding that the state pay for it, and then breaking the law with righteous indignation doesn't solve the problem. Figure out a solution, talk to your friends (and not-friends) about what you want to see changed, write to your legislators about those changes you want to see made, and vote.

I don't think this is as crazy as some may drum up here. The newly passed law simply states (bold emphasis added by me): So, the three scenarios that I can see are: 1. Dude is snowboarding all day inbounds, then ducks a rope into a closed area and triggers a slide that sweeps down out of the closed area and onto a cat track being used by other riders. He's guilty as sin and gets charged with this infraction. 2. Someone wants to ski out of bounds from a ski area, but the ski area doesn't want the public to exit from that location for some reason. This is done by simply setting the closed boundary signage back within the permitted area, forcing a violator to cross a closed area to leave the permitted area. Jackson Hole did this almost everywhere before dropping the ropes in 1999. 3. Dude skis into a closed area within a ski area from out of bounds. This has actually happened to me a couple of times doing traverses in California that ended at a ski area parking lot. The crux is whether or not I could have knowingly entered a closed area. I got a away with it once, and simply got a warning the second time when I explained why I wasn't aware. In Alpental's case, the commonly used track to Source Lake IS HAZARDOUS. I'm talking about the track that starts from the last parking lot, by the water tank, that runs along the west side of the valley. Its within the ski area permitted boundary, and it runs through numerous slide paths that Alpental Ski Patrol regularly chucks bombs on. They are understandably nervous that one of these days someone skinning uphill is going to be taken out by a slide that they triggered. This law now means that when the Alpental Ski Patrol places a closed sign at the end of the trail in the upper lot, even the non-lift ticket public will have consequences for ducking around the sign/rope. I won't be surprised if a Sheriff is there the first few times to educate the public and make a point either. Again, I don't think this is such a big deal. Alpental's concern is understandable and justified. The less used summer trail route on the east side of the valley isn't bad - it just doesn't see the same traffic, doesn't start from an obvious parking lot point, and therefore users gravitate to the west side. Both routes travel through significant avalanche paths, so if Patrol is chucking bombs on one side of the valley you may consider not wanting to expose yourself to natural activity on the other. Just my two cents.

FOUND: One MSR Picket On the trail to Heliotrope Ridge, Harrison Camp, Mirkwood, the Coleman Demming Route, and other assorted destinations on Mt Baker. The picket has someone's first name and initials marked on the picket. Tell me when you think you lost it, what name is marked on it, and any other distinctive thing (like is it threaded with a sling or not), and we'll arrange a return. Cheers Chris

Thanks for the photo - is the road open to the trailhead?

Which plane are you talking about?

Is this for ice tool tethers or an anchor system?

Trip: Mt Gardiner - Tour Date: 5/6/2011 Trip Report: With the May weather in the Cascades being so "eh", I took a trip down to the Eastside of the Sierra for a six-day tour. The territory west of the crest, between Whitney and the Palisades, rarely sees a soul. We saw ski tracks on day two from someone heading south several days earlier, then nothing more until the last day as we approached the parking lot. Our camps were at 11,000', the ragged boreal edge of treeline there. One hopeful descent that we wanted to do but had to pass on was this gem, the Northwest Couloir on Dragon Peak. A crown was visible 1/5 from the top (in the shaded area of the photo, completely flushing the couloir to a bed surface that shined icily at us in the right light. Still, this is a pretty line! A lot of photos and a little bit of text can be found on my blog: http://climbskirun.blogspot.com/2011/05/heading-south-six-days-in-high-sierra.html Gear Notes: Used ski crampons on three days. Didn't use boot crampons or ice axes. Rope/harness essential to negotiate North Dragon Pass. Approach Notes: The flight into Mammoth Lakes is straight forward, and cost-effective with some advanced planning. Other options are to fly into Reno (4 hours to Bishop) or Las Vegas (5 hours to Bishop). Our trailhead was outside of Independence.

Thanks guys - I'll contribute whenever I learn something new.

Exactly.

Dude, nice work - everyone here has been waiting for it to dry out!!

Climax avalanche events from higher on the mountain can end up in Source Lake, and several slides this winter reached the lake too. I recommend taking the time to hike up and camp on the Snow Lake divide (45 minutes) or even down and on the south shore of Snow Lake (another 30 minutes) instead.

Very much so. A week ago the north aspect snow line started soon above the Pearly Gates, which was still running with water. I'm pushing back my typical spring climbing agenda by a month.

I think its completely weather and climb dependent. I hate putting on cold, frozen boots, so if I can't keep my leather boots dry the first day I'll go with plastics instead. With plastic boots I sleep with the liners in my bag to dry out, and they're warm in the morning. I also think that most of the time they need to be insulated leather boots. My leather Rainier climbs have been done in a pair of La Sportive Nepal Extremes - my plastic Rainier climbs in Scarpa Alphas.

I agree with DPS.

I'd also recommend going alpine ice climbing before going water ice climbing. Alpine ice typically happens mid- to late-summer, and can be on easier terrain than mid-winter waterfall ice, but uses the same techniques. So you'd get to be introduced to the same skill set on easier terrain and in warmer temps, and can step up to waterfall ice the following winter. So, intro to rock -> intro to alpine rock -> alpine ice -> waterfall ice

SALE PENDING: Cleaning up the gear-closet a little bit and have a few extra Camalots that aren't really getting used much by me. These previous-generation Camalots are perfectly good, just not as sexy as the current models. You're welcome to inspect before committing if you live in Seattle. I'm willing to deliver inside Seattle city limits, otherwise you'll need to pay for USPS shipping or come to Seattle for the trade. #3 - retails new for $69.50 - for sale for $35.00 #3.5 - comparable to a current #4 - retails new for $84.95 - for sale for $45.00 #4 - comparable to a current #5 - retails new for $110.95 - for sale for $60.00 Feel free to pm me with any questions or offers. Chris

I'll put another vote in for the BD Covert. It fits a longer back than the Outlaw (I did a comparison check to make sure), and I prefer a diagonal ski strap system. I'm able to fit everything I need for a full ski-mountaineering day in the pack, including rope, harness, and ski and boot crampons as needed. Like its been mentioned, I can fit my "wet" gear - shovel, saw, and skins in the outer zipper, everything else in the "main" zipper. My BCA probe barely fits in the outer compartment though - maybe the probe dimensions are a bit longer than a comparable BD? So my probe ends up in the main compartment, where I end up using it more often anyways for snow/weather observations. The "goggle" zipper in between the two works better for small things - cell phone, gps, thermometer, bits and bobs. Two small pockets on the hip belt are great for skin wax, ski wax, diamond file, scraper and sunscreen. I've skied 40+ days with this pack this winter, and I'm completely satisfied with it. The only thing I'd re-consider is getting an avalung version.

Supertopo offers an "ultra-classic" select guide book for the Valley and a seperate edition for Toulumne Meadows - those alone would probably take up your whole trip. IF you insist on passing up miles of great climbing to drive down to Mt Whitney, then I'd really recommend climbing the Premier Route (aka the Beckey Route) on Premier Buttress in Whitney Portal (5.8), listed in Bishop Rock Climbs. Anything away from the road is in Sierra Peaks and Passes, which is kind of like all three of the Cascade guides in one volume (and about as heavy!). For comprehensive roadside guides, from Whitney to the Valley there's 7 guide books, an 8th alpine guide book, and 3-4 select guidebooks that I can think of off-hand. Good luck fitting all that into one week!

There will be some great alpine ice climbing to be had later this summer, and keep an eye on Pro Guiding Services website next fall - they're talking about trying to expand their ice climbing opportunities!

You don't have to carry enough gear to replace the entire rappel route - on the most popular routes around here, there's been enough traffic that you're maintaining already existing rap anchors by REMOVING old, ugly, untrustworthy tat and replacing it with a bit of your own, newer, trustworthy stuff. That's what makes 6 mm and 7mm cordelettes so perfect: they're cheap to replace, you'll always have one or two for anchors on the way up, they're cheap to replace, you can cut them into smaller pieces for rappel anchors on the descent, and they're cheap to replace! Having a couple of quicklinks or "leaver-biners" is wise as well.

My goto alpine pant is a pair of OR Credo [ur]http://www.backcountry.com/outdoor-research-credo-softshell-pant-mens[/url]. If the weather's threatening, I carry a pair of MEC goretex pants (bought on sale, never seen again), that DON'T have a powder-cuff and DO have a 3/4s zipper that I can fit a crampon-ed boot through. I'll add long underwear if and only if the temps are in the low 20s or less.

There is a great gully to the east of the parking lots that is perfect for what you're looking for. Typically the only lot to the right of the road (as your entering) leads straight to it.

Hopefully this is for a pair.

I'm trying to determine where mile marker 11.5 is geographically on the Suiattle River Road (FS Rd 26). My work is mostly stumped because I can't tell on my maps where the FS Road starts and the county road ends. Can someone give me a geographical marker - campsite, creek junction, etc?

Limited-time offer, must sell this weekend and deliver on Monday - leaving for Canada! BD Outlaw Pack, size M/L Like new, used less than a one month. Selling because I received a second pack as a gift. Blue. BD's description here: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/ski/snow-packs/outlaw-pack Retail price: $140.00 $80.00 includes delivery in Seattle on Monday.