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Everything posted by chris
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Ready for your shot on the next TGR film? This helmet is your ticket to a life of fast lines, fat boards, and good times. "The Giro Revolver has all the style and safety you want, plus a few killer features you didn't even know you needed. Center brim Stack Vent pulls fogging exhaust away from the top of your goggles. Soft internal Subliner lets you remove the fit pads and rock a beanie without irritation or discomfort. Goggle Channel provides space for wearing your goggle strap inside the helmet. Hard Shell takes the dings of daily use without damaging the protective EPS foam liner. Bottom Line: Reliable under fire." -www.backcountry.com This helmet retails for $69.95 + tax + shipping (or your time driving) = $90 In new condition - size Large - yours for $35 + $10 shipping. PayPal preferred. $45 Shipping Included LINK to backcountry.com and reviews.
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I agree with JH - its worth it!
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Hey Hugh, Yeah, I didn't think they really had the sex appeal to make it on tgr's forum. I opted to craigslist them. Thanks! Chris
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Sent ya a PM.
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I've got a pair of resort-boards to sell, and I'm not sure that here or TAY is the best place to sell them. Do any of the local ski clubs have forum boards? Does anyone have ideas?
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[img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_cDSpCB5TF6E/TJf0-wauFqI/AAAAAAAAMV0/qjvQ9Ca98FQ/Eastern%20Sierra%20Ice.jpg[/img] Eastern Sierra Ice, by Robert SP Parker "What started out as a small online guide to Lee Vining and June Lake has now turned into this printed version with a greatly expanded area." - www.rei.com 54 pages with color photos and maps. Water ice areas from Lundy Canyon to Whitney. Alpine ice routes from North Peak to the Palisades. Covers short-approach front country areas to overnight, multi-pitch routes in the back country. The only guide of its kind. This copy is brand-new. Never used, in excellent condition. Retails for $14.95. $10.00 - includes shipping! PayPal preferred.
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Dan - definitely have to get together. Hope everything is ok. Alex & JPark - thanks, that was exactly the information I was hoping for.
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[img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_cDSpCB5TF6E/TJOoumVfAKI/AAAAAAAAMRE/NNjMWKgiOI4/s640/Bivy%20Sack%20In%20Bag.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_cDSpCB5TF6E/TJOoyhAuk3I/AAAAAAAAMRI/6fzGCg_SkGE/s640/Bivy%20Sack%20Unfolded.JPG[/img] The Ortovox Gemini Double Pivy is a classic piece of just-in-case equipment. Its simple envelope design saves weight and space, easily packing down 500mL. Don't worry about the small cosmetic tear on the stuff-sack pictured: the bivy sack itself is in good shape. Purple on one side, orange on the opposite with HELP written in 2m x 1m letters (this was key for a helicopter rescue in the Palisade Range, Sierra Nevada, in 2003). "The Ortovox Gemini Double Bivvy is indispensable protection against storm, rain and snow. In case of a sudden fall in temperature or accidents in the mountains a bivouac sack may save your life. All bivouac sacks can also be used as water-proof and wind-proof ponchos!! The Gemini double that offers space for 2 persons and their equipment." - www.campsaver.com Weight: 330gm (latest model weighs 390gm) Dimensions: 220cm long x 140cm wide Retail Cost: Average cost new - $78.00 $20. Shipping included.
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The AMGA training and certification program meets the same international standards that the ACMG does. In fact, the ACMG sponsored our membership into the IFMGA/UIAGM. Comparing one national guides training program to one company's guides training program is not a fair comparison. Though, to be fair, the American Alpine Institute uses AMGA Certified Guides to instruct their guides training program, so the AMGA curriculum is trickling down. I'm not aware of any professional guide services that "rely merely on hotshot climbers who want to earn a couple of bucks for summer work." If your concern - or only experience - is with the more institutional nature of the larger guide services, then I'd encourage you to consider smaller guide services such as North Cascade Mountain Guides (Mazama) or the Northwest Mountain School (Leavenworth). These companies offer competitively priced, custom instruction and guiding. Both encourage their guides to pursue AMGA training and certification. Finally, I have to argue that there is never any dignity lost in hiring a guide. Its curious that you argue that by hiring an ACMG Guide through the ACC (as you advocated) you would loose less dignity than by hiring a guide from an AMGA accredited guide service - where you could insist on being given an AMGA Certified Guide! There are countless examples of first ascents of routes and peaks by guided parties. How valuable is your time? Some don't have the luxury of traveling to a new destination to spend 1/2 their time figuring out where to go and how to get there. Others have enough time to get fit, or enough time to gain experience, but not both. Hiring a guide provides a valuable opportunity for some to get out into the mountains.
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I've been considering the Spot II for 3 day+ trips without cell phone reception, where calling for help will be considerably faster than hiking out or waiting to be overdue. A client recently used a Spot II on our trip, and I liked the small size, simplicity, and ruggedness.
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The crux of the matter is UV damage - dyneema/spectra material ages faster than nylon due to sunlight. For a recreational user like yourself, consider replacing dyneema slings every three years, and nylon slings every five.
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Hey team, In four weeks I'm finally moving back to Seattle after a long "sabatical" down in California. When I left, I knew of two crags available for mixed training. Is there anywhere new? I'm really wondering if there's a new wall amongst the Exits that it might be ok to scratch up in the not-ice-season. Way excited to be coming home - see you soon!! Chris
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Robert- So what happened? How was the trip?
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Fantastic - nice work!
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FYI - guide services often recommend plastic boots because on wet, overnight trips its easier to dry out a pair of liners (in your sleeping bag) then a pair of leather boots, no matter how well insulated.
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Dane, I believe your premise for the poll is incorrect and misleading. To my knowledge, skiing or climbing, without a rope above 10,000 is not "illegal". Please check the MRNP website - I cannot find any such requirement. As far as I'm aware, the park defines soloing as climbing without a partner, not climbing without a rope. I encourage you to contact the Chief Climbing Ranger to answer this question, and let us know what you find. Thanks! Chris
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RJ, The snow level is around 10000 and melting fast, especially on southern aspects with lots of exposure. The road to Red's is still closed. I'd expect some snow amongst the trees and around Shadow Lake, but still be OK with it right now. As long as the temperatures remain at or above normal - like they are right now - you should be ok.
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I've got to back up Denali, Dane. No guide service - in my 12 years of experience - has a refund policy like what you spoke of. The guides are under no pressure to continue up in conditions that may be life threatening. To respond directly to bp's question - it depends. It depends on the avalanche hazard below Camp Muir, which could easily have been managable (and I suspect it was, since the guide services made it to Camp Muir). Often times, guided groups have climbed in some really foul weather because with the appropriate equipment and experience of the guides, it is possible to do so. This is why non-guided rope teams should not follow guided teams up the mountain like lemmings!
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I actually really like my ATC Guide. As it has been already mentioned, the device can be flipped to provide less friction. I prefer to belay the second from the anchor whenever possible, and I do think the convenience is valuable. But to respond to the OP, I do use a munter to belay the second on low 5th / 4th class terrain where a belay is necessary, but not a rappel. I have found on routes of greater than 3-pitches that the rope becomes so kinked from the munter application that by the 4th pitch the rope must be untied from one end and the twists worked out before continuing. That occurs even faster during rappel, especially if the rope cannot hang freely. So there you have it. I use the ATC Guide unless special circumstances allows me to save weight and space and use a munter instead.
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I'm not satisfied with anyone in Seattle anymore. Ramuta in Montana or The Rubber Room in Bishop. I've had my shoes resoled by both, and prefer The Rubber Room.
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Title pretty much says it all. Any recommendations in Tac-town?
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sigh
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$75 / includes shipping [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_cDSpCB5TF6E/S5rn441flgI/AAAAAAAAJ9A/7dyKKG0ObGI/s640/DSC02240.JPG[/img] These are a pair of rigid mono-point crampons. The have climbed great - I just bought a new pair and realized that these are going to sit around and never get used. They're perfect for someone who wants to climb technical water ice but is on a budget. I had put these out for sale earlier, but didn't do my homework and asked far too much for them. Thanks to everyone that corrected my earlier rashness. Currently on e-bay there is a used pair at $62 with two more days of bidding. So, I'm offering these up for $75 - including shipping - as is.
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$250 / includes shipping These are a pair of pre-leashless carbon-fiber BD Cobras, with a pair of Android Leashes. The tools have been awesome - I just bought a current pair and realized that these are going to sit around and never get used. They're perfect for someone who wants to climb with leashes, or some one just getting into the sport and on a budget. I had put these out for sale earlier, but didn't do my homework and asked far too much for them. Thanks to everyone that corrected my earlier rashness. Currently on e-bay there is a new pair without leashes for bid at $250, and a used pair currently at $205 with 6 more days. So, I'm offering these up for $250 - including shipping - as is.
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Chimacum Rock (aka Tamanous Rock or Big Rock)
chris replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Access Issues
Have you contacted the Washington Climbers Coalition for assistance?