chris

Because the first two posts gave me the impression that someone was simply adding another helicopter service into the area - "commercial tenure" is not a term used in the States. Also, "heli-snowmobiling" and "commercial tenure" were not mentioned in the first two posts, or in the links provided. So give me a second... EDIT: EDIT #2:

Thanks for the spell-out. So does "commercial tennure" grant the permit holder exclusivity? And as I understand it, heliskiing is not presently offered around Mt. Waddington, only heli-access - am I wrong? And does it simply add to the helicopter traffic that already occurs, or does it limit it in a "rob Peter to give to Paul" scenario? EDIT: And hey - I followed the links in the first two posts (though I'm not a Bivouac member so I can't see the discussion), and I don't have any information about "heli-snowmobiling". Can someone cite a source to back that up? I had assumed that any snowmobile access would be for lower mountain operations (like other coastal boat heli-ski operators).

Yeah, it's usually best to do this before you spout off Jordop - I apologized for being a smart-ass and I said that Don's argument was compelling and persuasive. Not that I agreed with him or regretted my post. I don't agree (completely) with Don, nor do I regret voicing my opinion.

since this is not the issue here, nor ever has been. Apparently no one has been allowed to guide on Waddington until now. Jordop, sorry, I was feeling a bit smart-ass when I wrote that post. But American Alpine Institute and NOLS offer Mt. Waddington climbs (the NOLS trips are heli or plane resupplied). And I thought (though I may be wrong) that ACMG-IFMGA guides are allowed to operate on Ministry of Forests lands. So, allowing a guide service to land a helicopter in the area is increasing access for a guided visitor. I've never been shy about stepping up and voicing my opinion about guides' access on public lands on both sides of the border. I think that my voice provides a bit of balance to others who cry "No - Never!" I know that the resulting compromise will sit somewhere in the middle of that spectrum. Really, you should buy me that beer. Edit: Wow, I just finished reading Don's posts on this. Very persuasive and compelling argument. And though I'm not a Canadian citizen, I am a tourist who comes in and spends my money there (something that means less now than it did 6 or 7 years ago). And as a climber, a back country skier, and a guide, I figured my opinion was asked for in the OP.

Thanks, I just emailed too: My email tag includes my profession, my primary company, and my membership in the American Mountain Guide Association. I'm all in favor of increased guiding access to public lands, and I'm happy to defend this position to anyone who wants to buy me a beer. Thanks for posting the link!

I'll add a vote for the Suunto Altimax. I had a Vector, but the compass function was simply another screen that I had to pass through more often then not. I find the alarm plenty loud enough in a tent. Its my primary navigation tool. For a GPS, I've been using a Garmin E-Trex Vista, but I'm starting to believe its too big for my purposes. I'm getting ready to purchase a Gecko or something similar. All I want to use it for is to enter and follow waypoints for alpine whiteout navigation.

My ski-in-all conditions fat boards are K2 Mt. Bakers, 181cm, 88mm waist. I'm 6'1", 185lbs, and these do it all for me. They want to carve big turns, but I can make them turn short if need be. I don't think I'll go bigger until I start Heli-skiing.

Check out Three Sisters Backcountry Access (www.3sbca.com). They're the only AIARE course provider in Oregon. If you're in you're in southern OR, Shasta Mountain Guides may be closer.

REI does do a map & compass evening about once a month for free. This is a different offering than their GPS navigation. Even if its thin, it will give you a good introduction.

Other - pro deal. And for what it's worth, I found my purchasing tends to be cyclical rather than consistent, and averages between $1500-2000 a year.

I see. Since I haven't served, than I can't bitch about what happening to my best friend, or my brother-in-law. Only I did serve. Hospital Corpsman 3rd Class, Fleet Marine Force - that means (for a ground-pounder like you, Sheaf) that I moved with a weapon and with the Corps and gave up my non-combatant status. A lot of the leathernecks and devil dogs and Docs who are in Afghanistan right now went through Mountain Leader Courses that I instructed. And a lot of my friends are still in, and I read the NY Times every week to see if I recognize any names. So, by your standard, I've earned the right to have an opinion. And I say its bullshit that I - an American citizen - should have to stand up and justify myself like this to have an opinion about my country and my government. Fact is, that article you posted sucks ass. No sources are given for the statistics, nor are all the fatalities service-wide accounted for. Its un-fucking-deniable that more airmen, sailors, marines and soldiers than 3,133 have died, since that number doesn't include Afghanistan and the typical accidents that occur from training and operating. And it didn't included the crippled casualties or the fatalities that occurred out-of-theater from injuries. So the comparison from the Bush administration to the Clinton administration is a complete fucking waste of my time. We'll ignore the fucking piss-poor journalism, writing, and editing right now. And I'm pissed that my President and Commander-In-Chief fluffed up the intelligence briefing better than a porn star to pump up public support for invading Iraq. And I'm pissed that my best friend has already served three tours, and has shrapnel in his back and knee from a fucking IED in Bahgdad, and still continues to serve because he's a brave, honorable, soldier. And I'm pissed that my brother-in-law - a helicopter electronics technician - is having to do patrols right now in Iraq because we don't have enough infantry to do the job that needs to get done. And I'm pissed that my President's strategy has only emboldened Iran and started a civil war in a country that we had no legitimate reason to enter. So fuck off.

Ahhh, that is the problem! Thanks JS!

I agree - perhaps Sharma's ascent shouldn't have been included for consideration because the consequences of deep-water soloing are different (like the likely-hood of dieing when you foul up is less).

We skied the South Face. The North and Northeast Couloirs looked sweet, but we decided against skiing them since it would mean having to climb up and over Oval again to reach Courtney. That last 600' on the East Ridge of Oval was a bitch. 50cm of snow over talus, so we kept punching through. The first 1300 took a little over an hour to climb, the last 600' took 1.5 hours. Ouch. We didn't see a soul out there, and there weren't any tracks but our own on the trail on Sunday. It was definitely worth it, and I've added to my list of places to get back to this year.

What are these fatalities attributed to? Training? The Serbian conflict? The swim test in boot camp? No source was given for these statistics. And meanwhile, the 3,133 fatalities mentioned above occurred only in Iraq. I think its safe to assume the total is higher when statistics from Afghanistan and training exercises are added.

I leave for a weekend ski trip, and I haven't been able to access the avie forecast since. Can anyone tell me what's happening?

I kind of like the Golden Pitons - its an attempt to recognize significant accomplishments in the sport without the b#llsh!t that has come to the Gold Piolet. Climbing admitted the first year that the awards were completely subjective, to be taken with a grain of salt, and their mentioning of "Honorable Mentions" shows it. Perhaps they should give out three awards for each category, and eliminate the Honorable Mentions. Either way, I think of the awards as a "Highlights of the Year" and appreciated the intent in recognizing achievement.

Thank you Blake for inviting me along a great trip - I had no idea walls like these existed east of Washington Pass. Incredibly potential for first descents and first ascents. Some fun statistics: Friday, 10.5 miles traveled, 4500' gained Saturday, 4.6 miles traveled, 3000' gained, 2900' skied Sunday, 13.3 miles traveled, 440' gained, 5040' skied Total, 28.4 miles traveled, 7940' gained/skied

FF- I've been wishing for a Vireo-style bag big enough for two people. As someone mentioned above, I sleep in my clothes on winter/alpine routes, and I factor that in to my sleep system needs. So I'd ask for no zippers, snaps, hoods, or collars. If you're planning on building it with down only on the top, then I'd also ask for a sleeve on the floor to hold a foam pad - and while you're at it, sell it with a foam pad already pre-cut to fit the sleeve. Thanks

Its nnniiiccceee is what it is!

Last year, one of our cars was broken into and some clothes stolen while we were trail running near Sedro-Wooley in Skagit County. The Sheriff responded in about 30 minutes. From conversations I've had with Bellingham Police, crimes that have physical victims, or potential physical victims (domestic disturbance, assault, DUI, etc.) have a priority over property crimes.

Usually the snowpack has melted down so far in September to make ice axes useless. You can always check with Sierra Mountain Center, Sierra Mountain Guides, or Mammoth Mountaineering for conditions. Mac is right, most of the accidents occur because people traverse in early summer conditions and try to avoid the 4th-class step by traversing farther west to lower angled slopes. This is an alternate easier route, but the exposure and consequences of an non-arrested fall will kill you. The crux is the the first 15 meters of the final gully to the summit. This gully consists of about 100m of 3rd and 4th class climbing. The left side of the gully is easier climbing, but the right side is less exposed, making the downclimb a lot more secure. Both start and finish at the same points.

I think it tends to be more of a late season route because of access - the road is closed at Colonial.

This is a laudable goal, but Skagit Transit goes no-where near Mt. Erie. Island County Transit's Route 4 passes Mt. Erie on Hwy 20, but does not (and can not) stop at Campbell Road, which is still miles away from Erie. The drive is completely worth it!!

Kevbone, are being intentionally or willfully ignorant of the facts? You can get HPV from non-intercourse contact. From something as simple as open-mouth kissing. In fact, if you have a wart, its probably a form of HPV (that's how it got its name after all). Get it? SEX ISN"T REQUIRED TO GET INFECTED WITH HPV!!!