chris

Pemberton-Lillooet?

Its pretty grim. I'll add pictures on Wednesday. I hiked into Mt. Gilbert three days ago with two guests, intending to climb the North Couloir. We found the middle 100'/30m, in the throat of the couloir completely melted out. There is typically a 20-30' (call it 5-9m) bare section in normal years. The melt-off from the upper half is turning the lower half into a dirt-streaked bowling alley, and the recent warm temps haven't helped. Before we could look at Thompson, we discovered that one of us had an equipment malfunction (note to self: always make sure borrowed crampons work on the borrowers boots before the trip). From what I could see, the Smrynz Couloir was definetely out, which is typical, but the Knudtson and the Harrington may still be climbable. The Harrington looked very possible - we got the best look of it, but still didn't see the last 300' or so. So we hiked out and ran north, climbing Crystal Crag on the way, and then climbing the North Couloir on North Peak. This route is still in great condition, with steeper neve up the entire right side until 200' short of the notch. The left side and top features lower angled, but bullet-proof, bare ice. Rockfall was very minimal, and all debris fall down the double fall-line to the left side of the couloir. So stay right. A friend and co-worker reported that similar conditions made the V-Notch and U-Notch unclimbable as well. A large bergschrund on the V-Notch prevented access, and rockfall in both couloirs convinced him to climb rock routes instead. Conclusion: Mt Thompson may by climbable via the Knudtson or Harrington, but I wouldn't count on it. North Couloir on the North Peak is in great condition, and will last the season. North Couloir on Mt Gilbert is out of condition, but may come back in when temperatures drop below freezing (minimizing the rockfall and creating water ice in the throat). The 'schrund on V-Notch may have closed it for the season, but the U-Notch may come back when temps drop enough to still the rockfall. All these warm temps and stable weather days have convinced locals to work on the big alpine routes. I found myself and a guest on Starlight last week with 9 other people on the summit. 5 were accomplishing the Thunderbolt-Sill Palisade traverse.

RMI used to do this on Rainier, but I've heard that times have changed (and the guide:guest ratio has improved) and this practice has stopped. When they did "bag" someone at a rest break, it would occur if and only if 1) there wasn't a guide immediately available to turn around, 2) the guest was able to remain comfortable and warm, and 3) the guest was trusted to follow the guide's directions about the borders of the "safe" area. Guides would even carry up an expedition sleeping bag, typically one for every three rope teams, to facilitate this.

Bug is my hero-for-the-day.

The face is huge - there's room for at least two or three more distinct routes - does it really prove anything if one route is a bolted direct line? Edit: I've been hoping to go back this fall and repeat the original solo route, roped.

Kevin, I don't need to climb IB to know it takes pro across a bunch of those pitches. Get real you're comparing a few feet on one pitch with 22 pitches on another. John's in, how about you...? Joseph, I have to call bull on your assertion that IB takes gear across "a bunch of those pitches". I have climbed IB and I don't recall see any locations that a bolt was placed near a feature that could have been used for gear. The fellow who accomplished the FA of the West Face did so by soloing up to about 5.8 in difficulty, and zig-zags across the face. His line shares only 5-6 pitches of IB. I have nothing but respect for you, but in this instant your assertion does not match with my experience on the route. Chris

It is dry. And hot. Seriously, its looking like, and feeling like, a typical July.. The lower Owens Valley has already reached 100 degree F on multiple days. I've driven over Tioga Pass three times already, and there only route I can see with some snow to block climbing is the N buttress on Tenaya. I've climbed Langley and Whitney these last 10 days, and there is no snow on either routes. On Whitney, the E face and E Butt are as dry as a bone. The Mountaineers route still has a patch of snow up high, but you avoid it easily coming up and down. no ice axe or crampons required. I'm heading into Williamson and Tyndall on Wednesday, and will post more when I get back. Cheers, Chris

Alpaholic, your quotes are only relevant for the Whitney Trail corridor, and is handled seperately from the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek (which accesses the east face of Whitney, the east, north, and west faces of russel, and Keeler and Crook needles). There is the possiblitity of getting a walki- in permit for the climber's side of Whitney. You;d be better off calling ahead, tell them very specifically what your trying to do, and finding out for yourself. P.S. An alternative campsite (not very suitable for Whitney climbs) is at Alpine Lake, for climbs of the Fishhook arete, mithral, etc. P.S.S. sorry about the mispelling, but iMac's suck.

Construction harnesses also have the conection in the back to keep the front (where tools and material have to be handled) free from obstructions. I think its also simple to say that climbers take a bigger accepted level of risk.

just talked to burdo on thursday night at the gym. he's got fliers up in vw and feathered friends announcing the book release, partay is in mazama - hosted by the guide service there, himself and vw. will have food, beverages, his book and more next weekend (16 and 17). in the meantime, he's working away at the other book too for wa. pass. hi blake! montanapup!

I'll be looking around during June and August - I'll keep you in mind. Chris Edit: I forgot to mention - theres now a staple-back guidebook for Eastern Sierra ice (winter and alpine), written by SP Parker - you can get a copy at Wilson's in Bishop.

Whatever.

How about any single-pitch OW routes? Boulder problems?

There was a great article a few years ago about the running culture amongst the indigenous communities in Copper Canyon, Mexico. They routinely hold races from village to village - up to ultra-marathon distances - that includes kicking along a ball the size of a softball. A few of their best runners were brought up to the States to run a marathon, and given new running shoes as part of the program. They tried the shoes on, and then immediately prior to the race, removed them and put on their sandals instead. They all placed high, I think one even won the race. I've seen Nepali porters' feet (and the bare feet of people from Thailand, Mexico, and Ecuador) - and I wouldn't call them mangled. They're heavily calloused, muscled, and gnarled from spending their entire lives in direct contact with the ground - not unlike the hands of a carpenter or a fisherman.

Gene, There is still ass-kicking ice to be had in the Sierra. This year I'm betting U-Notch, V-Notch, and Mendel will be out. The North Couloir on North Peak can be done in a long day (I've only climbed it in September, but with the snow this year?) Check out the Left and Right Couloirs on Thompson (I'm forgetting their actual names), and the North Couloir on Mt Gilbert. You can base camp right in between these two peaks and climb all three in long trip. 60m rap anchors are established on the left side of the Left Couloir on Thompson, and on the East Ridge of Gilbert. PM me and I can send you better details about how to approach, where to camp, and where the rap stations are. Chris

I just saw two climbers with overnight packs bicycling up Icicle Creek Canyon this afternoon - another adventure in the making?

My homeowners/renters insurance specifically includes loss of property inside my car (my auto insurance specifically doesn't) and while travelling. Its cheap, simple and practical.

Just for the record, its my understanding that bouldering developement - especially the "improvement" of landing zones, is what caught the NCPS attention in Newhalem. Until they finish a new management plan that includes climbing/bouldering along the National Recreation Area corridor, there is a voluntary stop on development. As far as I know, the online link that Off White provided is still the best resource. Have fun!

Ditto. The WWU gym is relatively the best. Don't know what access is like for the public.

I agree with Bob. Not necessarily that the bolts didn't need to be chopped, but that those who did so should step up, and those that know who they are should speak up too. If you're brave enough to act, surely you're brave enough to speak for your actions.

I use one all summer between 10'000 and 14'000 feet in the Sierra.

The lodge is called the Tambopaxi: http://www.tambopaxi.com/

Interesting thoughts, all. For what its worth, the AMGA (MtnFund's second "A") is indeed a nonprofit. And rightfully so. While MtnFund did a great job quoting the mission statement, you didn't do a very good job looking into what the AMGA does. It is first an educational non-profit, offering courses and exams that create a national standard and raise the level of technical skills in the guiding community. It also provides guide services a national accreditation standard, which is a useful tool for clients. Since the United States government doesn't have a national standard for guides or guide services operating in the U.S. (each NPS, BLM, and USFS is responsible for setting their own requirements), the AMGA is also lobbying to raise awareness of the AMGA and the need for a national standard (PM me or start another thread if you really want me to rant on about this). The majority of the outdoor industry's support of the AMGA is in the form of grants to students to help lower the cost of courses and exams (running programs at a 3:1 or 2:1 ratio isn't cheap), and the AMGA is working to create an endowment fund for tuition costs. It pays its office staff equivalent salaries of other non-profits of its financial size. Personally, I think overseas climbing-educational nonprofits, like the Khumbu Climbing School, go hand-in-hand with other more traditional non-profits like the Central Asia Institute. The KCS provides job training that can raise a participant's annual income, while the CAI provides a service by building a community resource. So they both deserve my support and promotion. Mountain climbing is a selfish endeavor, and I never believe that climbers are some unique form of tourist that impact local communities less than others. When I'm guiding in the United States or abroad, I have a point of making my clients aware of local non-profits that could benefit from their support. P.S. MtnFund, please check your PM's

I'm going to be going on the "Five Weeks In Western China" weight loss program this summer.

I think that's the last "bowl" before gaining the saddle and starting up Pumice Ridge on the C-D route. That icefalls is constantly calving, and I often notice a high route traversing the bowl, often right through the debris. If you look closely in John's photos, you'll see another track crossing the very toe of the debris field. I think people use the upper side of the bowl as a "handrail" in adverse weather instead of a compass bearing, either (a)ignorant of , or (b) ignoring the hazard hanging above their head. A third option is that they're taking a "calculated risk", but I can't speak very highly of their math.