Sol

Nice fuck this, im going to cali!

easy to do in a day with short fixing. there is so much fixed gear a large rack is not necessary. one skyhook is all that's needed, set and a half of nuts, double rack from blue alien to #2, single 3 and 4. the old school A3, is now C1+. no pins or hammer needed.

it aint true. the bolt protects the move from the ledge above the crux out onto the exposed face climbing with the same blind placements to get back into the corner.

my buddy's dog fell in that one on the way to snow creek wall. he ran like mad and was just able to rescue her before the canal became accessible. even though she has four limbs with claws she could not climb out. it was scary. down in cali there is an irrigation pipe that goes through hammer dome in the calalveras dome area. Apparently its common practice to take the slide through the hammer. no thanks.

you are off the hook yo! raise the roof.

never thought about it, you must be lost in your assumptions bro/bra. how do you know dirty-gaston doesnt swing both ways?

*hot*! hey pink_chalk i can introduce you to me friend in the photo, dirty_sloper. he's a real good guy. eric8: not sisu.

here's one:

WARNING: you need a 70m rope for the last Heavens Gate rap.

i cut my teeth backpacking and getting hypothermia on katahdin when i was 13, your TR brings back uncontrollable shivering memories, thanks!

nice TR, looks rad!

Tyree and I went and repeated Darin and Matt's Areyete route last wednesday 8/15. We had a blast and thought the route was both high quality and aesthetic. The whole bollard set-up was pretty shady. It seemed like the picket we were using to backup the junk-show was sticking out of the bottom of the snow fin, it was so thin. But nonetheless it worked. Definetly used some short knifeblades, and it seemed like a stubby angle could tame the runout on the first pitch a bit. We climbed it in 7 60m pitches and a bit of simulclimbing. Cheers Darin and Matt, a fine line. Go get it. Some pics: Nightmare on Bollard Street: The immaculate pitch 1: There's a line. The Upper Arete: Mmmmmmm, Alpine Climbing We had originally planned on taking the labor day route up the pyramid to the summit, but a lack of energy and sunglasses nixed that idea. Any beta on the labor day route? Can anybody draw it in?

pitch 2, shorts over polypro direct.

bouldering yo!!!

shhhhh.....

Trango S with Goretex rocks!

yeah scott, we did change climbs in the middle of the thread. for some reason we decided to debate the ratings of the NE face of Main Gunisght in the middle of this gato negro thread. post a tr dood, that looks like a quality face. have you guys at NCMG heard of any repeats on hardy?

Awesome job Darin and Matt. Darin picks another plum.

So that's why the "10b" start completely kicked our ass! yeah that start of P1 is hard but would you consider it harder than P4? P4 felt like 11a to me and martins, so we graded it 10c. blake said 10d and you said 10c. who knows? personally, i prefer the sandbag over the softy.

Scott: its so hard to rate new routes. the little bit of new route activity i've done, we rated about 2 letter grades below what the climb felt like with trango s's hanging off of our harnesses, repeat ascents have confirmed the lower grades. lesson: sandbag to cover your ass. looks like the NE Butt of Hardy. 3rd ascent of dissapearing floor route with direct finish FA?

Scott: the 2nd pitch seemed like good, solid 10a, awesome climbing, thanks. Layton: with the addition of our new 2 nut anchor, you can now rap with one 60m rope. Off white's suggestion for an alternate descent sounds enticing.

looks like a great trip kevin, great photos. Even us married men still get out eh? how did you fight off the magentic pull of the gunsight range, you were so close! Sol and Ginnie Jo

hey, I am looking for a roomate to share my 2 bedroom apartment with from september 1 to jan or feb 1. My wife is heading east to do her student teaching and we can't really afford to keep me in the apartment by myself. For those climber/student types the place is perfect. The crib's about 7 blocks from campus in the York Neighborhood, quiet, warm (in winter), and spacious. Its one of 4 apts in an old victorian house with chill folks in all the other pads. Rent is $300/month plus 1/2 of utilities (usually < $40 month). No cable TV or house phone but we do have high-speed wireless internet. Also you'll be rooming with our 3 fantastic cats: Biscuit, Mr. Black, and Noodle so folks with allergens beware. the address is 1428 Humboldt #4 if you want to do a drive-by. any interest email me or pm: solwertkin@gmail.com sol

Hello all, My wife Ginnie Jo will be starting her student teaching in Wenatchee the first of September. She is looking for some climber types to live with in the Leavenworth/Cashmere/Peshastin area. A room in a house with some mildly evolved humans, or any leads on a studio or one-bedroom apt/house would be greatly appreciated. About her: she's got plenty of alpine routes under her belt, leads 5.10 trad/sport, and has a huge bouldering pad for her latest endeavors on the small stones. Besides all that, she speaks spanish fluently, teli-skis, eats healthy, and enjoys radio theater(?). With all her climbing girlfriends and buddies on the westside she'll be very excited to connect with some cool local folks who want to send, or just hangout. Give her an email: ginniejoblue@gmail.com thanks, sol