Sol

Having used both WC flexible friends and BD C4's, I would definetly recommend the C4's over the metolius. the new generation of Bd's are lighter than the WC, the triggers are way easier to use, and the range is larger. the only pro to the WC is a wider base whichis supposed to help with stability, but i haven't noticed any difference. the wifey and i just finished out our wide rack: 4 #4's, 2 #5's, 2 #6's. word.

Rad!!!!!!!!!! to your pops.

some others: stairway to heaven (when its open, though not technically closed) jungle warfare (kinda lame, but maybe not?) blazing saddles

oh jonny, that sucks. proabaly the last one of my friends to own any type of insurance. LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so, its two weeks later, how's your wrist?

I'll second that. WHEN IT"S OPEN, I highly recommend the upper pitches of millenium falcon. Mostly quality and varied face climbing in a great position off of bellygood.(4p11b) Or, for a bit easier alternative, finish up the suggested link up for stairway to heaven which i beleive shares some pitches with the upper MF (5p 10c).

how much harder than the full p1 of japanease gardens was it for you?

You just can't climb at index too long without stopping to gaze in amazement at what has been called the best corner at the crag, clay. Likewise, there comes a time when its siren song crescendo's and lures you to climb it. So, before i begin my own personal throttling, any beta on rack, thoughts on runouts, difficulty comparison (how sandbagged is it?), toprope accessibility, hints/tips, stories, history, or photos of this celebrated index classic? thanks ahead for any information, sol

thanks. :rawk:

Freeway??

nice pics, thanks for the squamish stoke! been wanting to get on tantalus for a while, looks and sounds rad. get on millenium falcon if you haven't climbed it yet, fun and easy, the pitches off of bellygood are sweet.

PM sent

that's weird

i use standard sports wristguards with the plastic stiffener's taken out so that my wrist remains straight. ace bandage seems counterproductive cuz of the decrease in blood flow.

i've had similar symptoms: years ago from too much line cooking, and currently from too many Indian creek fist cracks. are you icing your wrist? what do you do with your hands when you sleep? whenever i fuck up my wrists i start doing weird protective things in my sleep, like bending them under the pillow or under my chin and it becomes this chronic issue because they are never able to recover. eventually i have to start sleeping with wrist guards on and about 3 weeks later the pain is usually gone. like your doc said there is proabaly not enought lubrication down there, the ice will help flush out scar tissue and bring in blood, and the wrist guards will allow your wrist a chance to recover. also: bromelain and arnica as supplements to aid with the inflammation, aleve is only slowing down the healing, that shit is toxic.

no aid shit necesary on CBR, even if you can't free it, you can easily french free whatever you need to. KISS.

a buddy of mine has the yates big wall harness and loves everything about it except the built in hammer holster. problem is the holster does not come off and is so big he can't roll over or sleep on his side while passed out on the portaledge. my 2cents.

years ago a partner and I were packing up after a fun day on orbit. meanwhile, at least 4 parties were getting benighted in the setting sun, spread out all the way across the wall from orbit to champagne, they were yelling down at us, flashing us with their headlamps, etc. we felt like we should proabaly tell someone, so we called the sheriff in town and he just laughed, said he hoped they got so cold overnight, they'd quit rock climbing so he wouldn't have to deal with their idiot mistakes.

nice job, proud line.

beg of P2 was bolted by Andy DeKlerk for this route rise and fall which follows those bolts left at 5.12, looks like a striking line.

thanks blake, ahhhhhh, gunsight.

the person who drops their shit at the base of the route get dibs and can climb it as long as they want, dumbass.

there's a bunch of things you can do: first off, at the first sign of panic or fear learn how to repress that shit, breath, realize that no matter what, you proabaly are going to have to make the moves in front of you, and if you let fear take over, there going to be 10x harder read arno illgner's book, "the rock warriors way", kinda cheesy but some good stuff in there. go get on the steepest most exposed thing you can and try to get a little desensisitized. go aid climbing, nothing like a row of rusty copperheads to make that 00 tcu feel solid. i find a little internal mantra to help on scary terrain: "i'm the man, i'm the shit, its all good, here we go, im the man" climbing is so mental, its a barrier i keep having to confront as i continue to push my climbing abilities.

i'm not one of them. no thanks.

i know 3 people who went through WWU's pre-physical therapy program with decent grades (lots of a's, two or 3 b's and a single c or 2) and NONE were accepted into grad school, be warned. its kinda a crap shoot. lots of undergrad volunteer hours too... the 4 year doctorate seems a bit unreasonable.