Sol

yes, if you don't rap onto the sportfishing wall from the top of the 3rd pitch. if you want a harder finish than lovin arms check out senseless thoughts of paranoia, its rad.

tyree and i will be down there from june 14th to the 21st/22nd. proabaly won't have too much room in the ride but there is no doubt that gas prices are riduculous right now, so sharing that would proabaly be pretty cool.

i think there is some irony associated with the grades of the climbs at the WWU gym. there was a note up briefly after springbreak that said the staff of the wall finally went out and climbed some real rock. from what the note said, it seems like they had a hard time with real rock and have downgraded everything in the gym to reflect ratings of real rock routes. i think its a situation in which gym climbers/route setters get smoked when they climb outside and climb super strong inside, with regular climbers climbing a lot better outside than they do in the gym. that's my best reasoning as to why the grades in that place are all over the chart.

yeah, i scrubbed sideshow and earwax two summer agos but you can't really tell at this point. seems to me like 5.12 hardmen from seattle are about a dime a dozen these days. funny when you see people just running laps on iron horse, numbah 10, and the first pitch of NAD. p1 of abraxas would be a reasonable free project. also, there appears to be a numbner of proj/variations to the right of senseless thoughts of paranoia. has rise and fall ever been repeated?

yeah daryl, tell'em how it is. was on heaven's gate the other day and noticed two sets of fixed lines on projects to the right of HG. right on you guys, its amazing how far from climbed out the UTW is. its potential is astounding. here's some other stuff the local bolt choppers could work on instead of chop anchors: final pitch on tempitchous to the rim, line to the left of HG following parts of lamplighter with variations, scrub the earwax wall.

dont know if this will help, but... i've had the picture box get lost between other windows, but not show up on the list at the bottom of the screen. ive clicked on photos while making a tr and they didn't show up visibly in the text box, causing me to think they didn't load, but they were actually there just below what was visible.

cool, thanks guys. mattm, what did you think of senseless thoughts? I had a blast on it last spring.

thanks.

does anyone know if i can rap Davis holland lovin arms via the sportfishing wall (from top of p3)with a 70m rope? thanks for any info.

weather, anyone?

did it rain in index today?

there is an approach that my friends and I call the magic carpet ride that takes 2-3 hours off of the approach to the north face. you climb up to the bottom of chair 8 and head uphill for about 30 yards, then start traversing left across a couple drainages, after the last drainage and about 5 min of bushwacking you'll hit this open chute which you can glissade or hike easily and directly to the basin below the hanging glacier.

or maybe its because its the worst guidbook ever made

whatever, different strokes...

who'd a thunk

blake, just wait til the bypass glacier on sleese slides (usually july or august). climb sleese in a day. spend a day chilling and driving to yak. climb yak the next day and head home. its really not that rad, the domes and slabs in d-town are much more quality in my opinion, so spend your early season climbing those and tick yak whenever its conveinent.

yep, rapped off the north tower into the notch. the beta from ari was to not get our ropes stuck on the first Wild Flower rappel from the notch. not only was there the first set of grooves in the picture to get you knot past, but there was also a second set of grooves a bit lower. i got to watch ari do a knot moving technique in which instead of feeding both ropes on the rappel he locked off one strand and fed the other, effectively moving the knot with him until it had cleared both sets of grooves. never seen that technique before, good beta, just watch the ends of your ropes.

it has nothing to do with the PNW but... http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/

Trip: King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest Date: 3/31/2007 Trip Report: Since first reading about it, Vision Quest, a Jeff Achey first ascent classic, has been tripping around my brain for the better part of 2 years. In his guidebook to Indian Creek, David Bloom bluntly describes it as, "a burly route on the east face of the king of pain." Fast forward to Spring 2007, and the end of a much too short springbreak vacation. With 10 weeks of calculus and chemistry awaiting him in Washington, Tyree is super-hyped to end the trip memorably. The King of Pain Spires, Vision Quest climbs the gash between the two towers: P1: fingers in a corner to loose blocks, shitty gear, and a bad anchor, 5.10: P2: Bloom writes, "the first slot is easier and better protected and more fun than it appears, the second is not," 5.10: Get some you effervescent sack of Washington softness: Wild moves lead out of the slot to the belay: P3: A short offwidth to steep fists to wild overhanging flared hands, 5.10+: P4: Crazy: a steep groove leads to loco stemming between the two spires, and a spicy loose topout, 5.9+. Here's Ty just past the flare: Looking up at the loco stemming: The summit was rad, with great views of Indian Creek and the Six Shooters. Lucky for us we ran into wide crack aficianondo Ari Menitove on the way down and he guided us away from these notorious rope-eating grooves, thanks Ari! Beware: Overall, the route was great. The climbing was good, sustained, and challenging. As with most desert tower climbing there is a bit of crappy gear and spicy climbing, but as long as the 700 pound loose blocks and chockstones stay in place you'll be fine. Gear Notes: Rack of doubles from green alien to #4 camalots, extra #3's and 3.5's, single BD #5 and #6. Two ropes to rap. For more info and discussion visit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/105717655

irie dog stole bloom's dog's red kong. sorry bloom's dog.

I met a Jesse from salt lake city who was originally from seattle in the creek about a week and a half ago. he was climbing wide stuff and reminded me of Jim Carrey. same dude? if so, I might be able to get his contact info. sol

60% of the climbs on that list are not offwidths.

anybody been on hyperspace this year? wondering if its dry up there on ol' snow creek wall. thanks, sol

the 4th pitch of Narrow Arrow Direct at Index is the best off-width i've climbed in the PNW.