Sol

doug klewin & mike martin, late 1980's, A3+ish. cool, thanks.

Proud shit!

don't do it.

Nice, Darin goes alpine climbing! Looks like a fun trip to a unique area. Great pics as always; looks splitter out there.

cool. pics anyone?

I've definetly got some projects to clean and am wondering what type of tools, modified or not, that people use to clean routes? I don't remember a thread of this type before and would love to see what the index and dtown locals use to scrub up their lines.

doodoo

this might help: LINK there are some good circuits at sehome but don't get too hyped for anything that spectacular. definetly wait at least 24 hours after it rains before pulling on the fragile chuckanut sandstone. there is also bouldering at the bat caves, chuckanut state park, along the chuckanut, reiter road, nooksack falls area, as well as some zones in mt vernon.

what about the unclimbed e face of concord tower. anybody ever venture past minuteman?

That's awesome PP. What a great thread you guys. Mr. Klenke, though not always the case, the classic 5.8's and 5.9's have, for the most part, been climbed. And if they haven't, one would have to be pretty damn sure before reporting a FA, or the shit would hit the fan. What's left for the new generation is the harder steeper lines in between, and really that's the type of climbing I am looking for. Lines that rival astroman, the rostrum, with no chalk, no bolts, in my backyard, that will inspire me to push my climbing to the next level. Freeing these lines takes a lot of work; you can send a dirty 5.9 without too much effort, onsight, but alpine 5.12 with a layer of kitty litter is a whole diferent story. As far as lines go, choose your own adventure. I personally have pretty high standards for aesthetics and prefer the clean harder line to the often dirtier and easier line. At the beginning of our attempt on the distal phalanx, blake pondered going out ramps to the left or right of the crest, and i pretty much shut him down. There was a clean line directly up the crest which yielded a 5.l0b pitch over a roof, then a 5.9 step, and later an awesome 10a up finger cracks directly on the arete. It's the same line I would take again, like I said, choose your own adventure. John, your kinda a player-hater. My wife occasionally reads some of my threads on cc.com and she couldn't help but wonder what the deal between you and blake was. i told her my geuss was that after you bailed on the gunsight traverse with blake a few times he went and sent without you and things have been a little tense since. About self promotion. Sure, blake has promoted what I feel are completely newsworthy ascents in the past few years. And you know what he got in return: free gear yo! And i think that's just the shit. All my gear is falling to peices, today i have to cut up my blown-out 6 month old harness, and somehow buy a new one with the scraps of my $900 a month income. He inspired me, this winter i plan on applying for some climbing grants, hopefully getting some articles published, and promoting myself and my vision for hard cascades free climbing. When i scrub my projects and hopefully send them, i'm going to spray heavily in the hopes that someones else will climb them and they won't get covered in lichen again, lost to the ages; the lines are far too quality for that. Awesome season you guys, to all, and lets start training hard for the next one!

sup senor E, hope life is well down south, nason says hello.

was this in ltown or cashmere? just so everyone knows, cashmere holds the state police training center. and geuss what they do for training, pull people over for no reason. woo-hoo what fun. my wife got pulled over 3 times in 2 weeks for no reason and received no tickets. at least your not mexican or you would have been really harrassed.

hells yeah. props to everyone. word is some squamish hardmen are heading south to free the tempest...

sickness

John- all the beta i can really give you is the same thing that i posted earlier: pyramid lake trail to pyramid lake climbers trail to pyramid bivy at base of colonial glacier (i think) up and over the colonial to the neve glacier descend the neve to neve falls and forge a way to the base of the route between a map and the beckey guide it should be muy facil.

With the pyramid lake approach it would be quite accessible and looks pretty damn good. Darin's supercouloir of the cascades was still holding snow on the true mantis pk. (i think).

cool, in the enchantments? i know that there are hard 12's on some peaks of the cashmere crags, but i was focusing on long, super high-quality, 5.12's on the big 4 (stuart, prusik, cbr, and d-tail). i remember hearing that doorish was banned from this website.

yawn

boo-ya! pretty productive summer around these parts.

yosemite

...sucks

10b crux on the direct line up the lower arete: hell of a line(from the neve glacier):

we just call it mantis cuz its easier to say.

i didn't know anybody else was interested in the line; beta was never requested of me. Pm me and ill give you all the beta i have for anything.

awesome you guys, congrats, a last great problem has been sent! it was blake and I who made an attempt on Mantis earlier this year. we tried, but we were just too tired to finish from halfway up. we took the arete directly from the base and climbed some good 5.10 cruxes on reasonably clean rock down low. on the way out we found the cruiser approach: pyramid lake trail to pyramid bivy area, colonial glacier, to neve glacier, decend neve falls to the base (3-4 hours, not a lick of brush). with the easy approach you could summit bag on the way out (snowfield, pyramid, paul bunyan's stump, colonial, etc.) for a pretty cool traverse in a unique corner of the cascades.