Dane

I was told by the Rangers that there was 8' of snow on Mowich lake at the momnet.

http://www.ramutasresoles.com/ From John's web site... Since 1945, we've provided the highest levels of service and quality. From dress shoes to ballet to technical rock climbing, we cover nearly all specialty niches as well as the day to day work shoes that keep the feet of the busiest people moving. We began repairing rock shoes in 1995 when the owner, John Ramuta, began climbing. John felt he could do a great job of repairing his own climbing shoes out of his family owned shop. After experimentation with bonding methods and cements, along with rigourous testing by local climbers, John has perfected the art of resoling! The praises were high and Ramuta's Resoles was born. Ramuta's Resoles knows first hand what gear failure can mean during a crucial climb. Attention to detail is important to us. It's the only way we can assure there won't be problems once your shoes are back in action. We guarantee all of our work! "You don't climb 5.13 in your 3rd decade in the sport without figuring out where the real advantages lie. Putting John Ramuta's work between me and the smallest edges and most desperate smears is one of the best moves that I've come up with over the years!" - Bryan Burdo :: Northwest Premier Climber and Climbing Author Drop off Locations We will still be providing service to Kitsap, Seattle and Redmond Vertical Worlds.. They will ship to us the first and third Monday of every month.

Screw that! Ramuta is actually a THIRD generation Seattle cobbler. (and I bet one of the very few) Ramuta does a perfect job every time and charges less that what is is worth. My thought is we are still lucky Ramuta has decided to continue resoling shoes. Send them to Montana and support a local with some talent, who actually uses his own product.

Length on the axe?

Good to hear it wasn't worse. Glad you are OK and out. Frieh has been extremely lucky in the last year. Most people get a serious clue with the first fall on ice Went in for surgery myself 364 days ago today after a fall on rock. Check this out.. first page and my post on 5/05/09 should sum it up nicely. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/806791/I_fall_down#Post806791 FWIW it isn't the steep stuff that bothers me now....just the obvious fact and somehow I missed it..."you could actually get killed doing this shit". How I justify (or don't bother) that risk to myself now is what I find interesting. That thought (you could die) comes up now at the weirdest places on climbs. I'm slowly getting back to the "I can't die" mind set of my buddy John F.

The Corsa gets mixed reviews, some saying it is too light. I have not used it. I do however have a Petzl Sno Racer which I like for easy routes on Rainier @ 15oz and a steel head. I also use the Grivel Air Tech Evo that will climb most anything short of winter water ice. Again with a steel head @ 16oz. Either works well if you can get by with a short axe. I use trekking poles to compliment them on easier ground. Good review of several light weight axes including the Corsa and a similar model from Grivel....here: http://www.sierradescents.com/reviews/axes/camp-usa/corsa.html I'm pretty old school. Self arrest is a priority of course and I think the super light axes will work fine for that. But I also find I use the lwt axes more chopping steps in lwt boots or runners to get across hardened early morning or late season snow fields. In those conditions a little more head weight and a steel adze and pick are reassuring. Although following the track up Dissappointment Clever with a Corsa might well make me a believer.

Looks to be a decent rig, they just need to cut it in half

Lets back a up a bit. Alaska? If you are going above 14K on McKinley I'd think dbl boots. Foraker dbls as well, most everything else a single boot will generally due. Only problem is drying the single boots out over a long trip. Plastics are the easy choice. Newer fabric boots if you take care of them will work ok there if you are careful. Hydration and foot health management are equally improtant. Cascades? Spantik is way too much boot for everything here even if you get cold feet easily which I do. (except maybe a multiday mid winter trip on Rainier) Batura is a good winter boot in the Cascades because it is an easy boot to walk long distances in, stays dry from the outside and eliminates the need for a gaiter. It is reasonable warm but nothing really special. (I own most everything in the Sportiva boot line so the opinions aren't just conjecture on my part) But for most things that will take from one to three days, on winter climbs in the Canadian Rockies and difficult technical climbing, the "silver bullet" Evo Goretex Trango Extreme, the Batura and the Nepal Top Evo are all very good. I give the nod to the Nepal for the extra support front pointing and durability. The Trango Extreme is a bit lighter than the Nepal but also has less support and more ankle flexability. Batura is softer than the Trango in the ankle offering less support on steep ice and a bit more warmth. Nepal a big step up on both for support but harder to walk in because of it. Trango is the most fun to rock climb in and has a sticky rubber sole that you'll notice in use. Listed in the amount of warmth each offers..less to more Although I think the Batura and Nepal Evo are surprisingly pretty close warmth wise. Weight of ONE boot in a size 45. Prime 2 lb 2.7oz Trango Evo X 2 lb 4oz Batura 2 lb 8.5oz Nepal Evo 2 lb 10.4oz Spantik 2 lb 14oz for comparison older white Kolflack Ultra 2lb 10oz (avelotile liner) The Spantik is a much higher volume boot (by half again) than the old Kolfach...and is the warmest boot I have ever used. It is a huge boot! Flexibility? It is stiff in every way. The Spantik might well be better used as a ice climbing or ski boot than a alpine climbing boot if you have a choice. For a rigid soled boot.. Love the Spantik for keeping my feet warm and on ice. My other favorite for general use is the Nepal Top Evo. If I have to walk very far the Batura is the go to boot.

What axe are you planning on using it with? Lot of very difficult routes have been done with a hammer and a axe and generally they didn't match. But there are good combos and really bad combos today.

You guys crack me up... I wonder if anyone really realises just how much motivation the CC.com crowd offers the climbing community. Sobo...that nasty gash was from climbing...in and out of the Ambulance....but stick to the story dude...no one else will ever know

Nepal Evo in a size 45 (one boot) is 2lb 10.5oz. So just bit more than the others and closer to the Batura than I would have thought. The difference between the lightest to heaviest Sportive "technical sport boots" in a PAIR of 45s is only 12.8oz. Depending on your size foot, the heavier Nepals may be well worth the extra 12.8 oz on hard ice. They are for me. For other climbs I use the Batura for extra warmth and long walks and the Tango Evo for longer walks in milder conditions.

Gregg's picture....of John Culberson on Slipstream.

Bill! That looks bad dude!!! I'm glad you are doing good enough to make the Yosemite trip...Grack is a an awesome route Have fun!

Just and update. It has been 365 days since I took this fall. I rehab'd hard for the most part of the last 12 months. Half dozen or so triathlons, as many Centuries on the bike and some climbing. Becky route on Liberty Bell by August was the first rock. I suffered after that. By late fall the North face of Observation Rock, NE Gully on Dragontail. Again I suffered. Then after the new year, Flow Reversal on the pass, Pineapple Express on Snoqualimie, all three routes on Weeping Wall, Louise, Polar Circus and Curtain Call. By the end of winter I was even leading and soloing hard ice again. Things were finally feeling normal again by late March. But sadly ice is not rock, still a gumby on pure rock. No where near 100% physically even a year later. But I aint complaining either! I really wanted to thank everyone who allowed me to tag on to their rope over the past year and get some much needed milage in. Some of you didn't realise just how much I needed the help...thanks for letting me hang out! Without your help I would not be climbing now or as far along as I am today physically. Thanks Guys! That list includes, Dave, Braydon, Craig, Rob, Jens, Brian, Jack, Josh,. ..Sobo for keeping me off the big dirt dive and Tracy for taking care of me when I couldn't walk, among other things. Big props to all of you...and for the entire CC.com crowd for all the entertainment and encouragement! Ya'll be careful out there, ya hear?

I agree. Much like the Grivel matrix tools. It may be close but looks to me like the Quark actually has more clearence over all (more curve spike to head) than the Matrix shaft. Could be wrong though. Matrix is one of the few tools I don't own so can't make a realistic comparison. Wasn't thrilled when Grivel changed to head replacement instead of the pick replacement. Nice tools none the less. How does it swing? It is still a Quark....so just like one, except a good bit lighter in the hand and I suspect lighter than the Matrix. Lighter head and swing weight is an acquired taste and may not work well for everyone or to your tastes in every ice condition. For various reasons, better tools and less physical strength, I've found my technique has changed. I generally hook eveything now instead of swing with much force.

Way to GO get some round eye, and not get chopped It's a good start!

Nice fucking tease! That might well deserve a sucker punch later in the week Sounds to me like some suffereing might have been involved by the tone of the post?

Thought some might enjoy reading of a recent trip on Slipstream. Good to see one of my past climbing partners still getting out and scaring himself May 3, 2009 http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2009/may/03/roskelley-duo-chills-out-on-icy-waterfall-climb/ Spokane climbers John and Jess Roskelley shared some quality time in a room with an incredible view last weekend during their visit to Alberta’s Columbia Icefields. The only price the father-son team paid was enduring the night at minus 10 degrees without sleeping bags huddled in a tiny snow cave on a vertical ice cliff. Cheap. “We just got caught out,” shrugged John, 60, a former Spokane County commissioner and one of America’s premier mountaineers in the 1970s and ’80s. “These things happen occasionally when you climb challenging routes.” The Roskelleys were climbing a difficult snow, ice and waterfall route known as Slipstream (IV, WI4), which leads to the 11,322-foot summit of Snow Dome in Jasper National Park. The pair had climbed Mount Everest together in 2003, when Jess, now 26, temporarily became the youngest American to climb the peak. “We thought we were fast enough to get up it in a day, but a lot of little things added up,” John said. “It’s considered one of the finest alpine routes in the Canadian Rockies and is seldom climbed because of the commitment, difficulties, and objective dangers, such as avalanche, falling ice and the massive cornice at the top, which breaks off occasionally, not to mention the very technical climbing.” Park rangers take notice when climbers log in at the Icefields Visitor Center to climb Slipstream. “We started Sunday in really good weather, but by noon it was deteriorating. Clouds came in and it started snowing and we were getting a lot of spindrift avalanches down the face burying us on our belays and slowing us up. “The ice climbing was very difficult up high and there was virtually no place to get out of the conditions. We were lucky to find a spot where we could kick out a snow cave about 200 feet from the top. It was the only place I spotted on the whole route where we could even sit down. “It was a good climb,” he said, summarizing the big picture. Pressed for more details, he said neither of them slept during the night. “We had our down coats to wear and stove to melt snow, but nothing else extra,” he said. “We sat on one pack and put our feet in the other pack and just hugged each other and shivered all night.” Fortunately, the weather cleared into a spectacular, windless, starry night. Even though the temperatures plummeted, the snowfall stopped and kept the route from getting too dangerous. Said Roskelley, “On Monday morning, the sun came up and low and behold it shined right into our cave with welcome warmth. That really helped us get moving and into our equipment and frozen boots.” The pair finished the last pitch of the climb and briefly enjoyed the stunning view under blue skies. As they were beginning their descent down the dome, toward an area of crevasses and a gully, a helicopter flew by. “We were a day late, so I knew the climbing rangers might be concerned,” Roskelley said. “I gave them a thumbs up to show we were OK, but they circled and landed anyway. “They offered us a lift out, since they were already up there flying. It was the easiest descent I’ve ever made. In five minutes we were back at the Visitor Center. It saved us five hours of trudging and two rappels.”

RE: Aztarex? I agree. Couple of random thoughts on the Quark. Even after cutting down the Quark head to Nomic size...it looks to have as much or may be a bit more aluminum supporting the pick. Nomic has 19mm x 21mm of aluminum head plus some heavy contouring and the biner hole to support the pick. The cut down lwt Quark has a full 22mm x 21mm of aluminum and no biner hole to support the pick. Neither tool supports the bottom of the pick on the shaft. Nomic picks (with or with out the bolt on pick weight)work in a standard Quark and have all the support of a normal Nomic. So the Nomic picks (and Quark picks) work in the chopped Quark as well. Mini hammers seem to work (sorta) for the BD tools. Certainly changes the swing weight of the chopped Quark (or Nomic) but an option over using pick weights if you nee a hammer or want a little more weight for the sinker, one swing stick. Either way the chopped Quark gives you the majority of advantages of the Quark for alpine and some of the advantages...but not all...of the Nomic. Still working on cutting down an adze. But a couple of options are easy enough to do.

Thought I might get that response Might well have given it myself. Here is the caveat/disclaimer if you want to modify your own tools. I have a fully stocked machine/metal shop and work in that medium on a daily basis. I would never cut up a tool I paid retail for...never, ever. I paid less than a $70 for this Quark in a well used but fully functioning condition. I did this one as a "one off project" for myself to get me thinking about optimum tool design to match my own requirements. Any of the stock BD or Petzl tools will serve you well 99.9% of the time if you match the tool to the climb. I can't think of any of the out of the box production tools that my chopped up Quark would out perform pat that .1%. I need to take the mill and a grinder to a Cobra, it might up the % a point of two! Isn't good design just removing everything that isn't required?

We are currently climbing on the best ice and mixed tools ever made. But the future still holds even better things to come. I really like both the BD and the Petzl ice tools. I think the BD tools (Cobra and Viper) are better set up for alpine climbing than some of the other tools available. They are obviously some of the very best water ice and mixed tools as well. I'm just not a big fan of the BD picks in design, materials and manufacturing process. When you look at the Petzel gear, picks aren't an issue. But the Quark is out dated having been on the market now since the winter of 2000/2001. The Nomic on the other hand has some limitations that are hard to over come in the alpine. But the Nomic tool is so reliable and climbs everything so well that people are taking it to the mountains anyway. But both Petzl tools are lacking certain things we now take for granted with BD. Trigger/second grip placement and umbilical attachments come to mind off hand. The Nomic has shown just how light a tool can go and still climb exceptionally well. But to date neither BD or Petzel has put all the current technology together in one tool. Over the past two winters I keep seeing Quarks on some pretty hard routes with the adze and hammers missing like the Quark being used on the Droites pictured below. But I have seen Nomics being used on the Droites as well. The stock BD tools have been used to solo Droites as have the Petzel gear. Guys have added hammers to the Nomic and Quark heads to the Nomic shaft. That has to tell you something. Tells me no one has it at 100% yet. Caroline George photo How about a tool that does it all and never misses a stick? Here is my "mission statement" for a better design and the current leader in design imo. lightest possible weight and excellence balance (Nomic) reliable picks (Petzel/Grivel, hot forged) easy umbilical attachment (Black Diamond) spike and top grip specifically for plunging (1/2 to BD) big clearence on the shaft (everyone) second hold mid shaft for matching (1/2 BD Cobra) range of 3 distinct picks for mixed, alpine, water ice (no one) removeable micro and macro adze and hammer (BD) shaft cover, is slick, insulates & sticky top to bottom (no one) Tool head, shaft, picks and grip that are all ergonomic (no one) Here is what a few minutes effort from my shop produced today. Obviously I started with a Quark. Weight now is comparable to a Nomic. Added a Grivel slider bolted on and contoured into a over size trigger and second grip. It is higher on the shaft so no matter the glove thickness you use it will fit nicely. Also makes matching more efficent with a bit more ground gained. Micro hammer shown was easy to mill but a standard adze and regular hammer will still bolt right on if required. Plumbers tape on the upper half of shaft. Alpine pick installed. No teeth close to the shaft so you can plunge the thing with some comfort and security. Mixed and Cascade picks are already available. Any of the picks are easy to modify to take the Nomic head weights if required. Funky umbilical attachment...which could easily be done better if the grip rest was molded in originally. Still needs a place to clip off on a biner for carry. But I suspect you get the idea and just how far this could go. Think how easy and quick it would be for Petzel or BD to incorporate all this into a production piece? Where is the creativity and ability to innovate now, that Chouinard and crew showed over and over again at GPIW? Come on Bill, get them to step up to the plate and put it ALL together

A lot more snow now than when the first "winter" ascents of either were done.

I wanta go climbing with Leclerc!

Great pics Calder! Thanks! I do know how it is

Not as much criticizing ropes just pointing out what I have found as disadvantages and advantages of the gear. But all good discussion points. FWIW when 1/2 and twin ropes were over 8.5 there was less of an issue. BITD a 9mm rope WAS a dbl. Now a 9.1 is an awesome single, DBL or Twin. Which says a lot to how far ropes have come. The advantages or disadvantages of the dbl/single rope techniques I'll leave for another discussion.