Dane

I have been using Orthopedics International in Seattle. They work with the Seahawks and the Mariners. I been pretty happy with them through three major surgeries and the rehab. http://www.orthopedics-intl.net/ Ste 400 1600 E Jefferson St, Seattle, WA 98122-5647 (206) 323-1900

Since everyone from Parks Canada employees, to my wife, have publically accused me of a climbing boot fetish here is my firsthand report on the Baruntse. And a dbl post at that from the grear critic section. Just found them available on line yesterday not at Zappos.com as expected but locally at http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/ in Ashford, WA. About a 75 mile one way drive for me. But I really wanted to know how they would fit. I called, open 7am to 8pm. They had a full size run in stock...along with full size runs of Nepal EVOs and Spantiks. No one in Seattle and may be even WA has a similar assortment of boot styles and sizes. Chad at @ Whittaker mountaineering was kind enough to allow me play time with a range of sizes and compare a pair of Spantiks to the newest Baruntse. I was at the Summit Haus in Ashford a good hr or more fitting boots today. Hey, also worth noting there is a BIG party at Whittaker's next weekend (9/12&13) with food, beer, free lectures, slide shows and a big gear sale...might be worth a trip:) Heck, you could even try on some boots http://www.rainierfestival.com/ OK the boot? First think of a super warm Nepal Evo. Then let me pick apart Sportiva's comments. As you can see in the pictures I seriously doubt actual volume of the Spantik is any greater than the Baruntse or that it is a warmer boot. I have the Spantik, been using it for 2 years with the Intuition liner. With the after market liner it may be warmer than the Baruntse but not a lot is my take on it. Normal liners in both boots and the Spantik may be a tiny bit warmer only because the Spantik has more insulation in the sole and less lace exposed to trap snow on top of the boot. No question the lower volume fit of the Baruntse will make it a BIG hit with anyone looking for a more user friendly technical boot. The Baruntse is going to be the BOMB as a cold weather technical boot. Again..think way, way, warmer and a slightly bigger for the size Nepal EVO. The out side volume of the Spantik and the Baruntse is the same but the Baruntse fits a bit smaller. Not the best pictures but trust me virtually same volume on both boots if not the Baruntse having the bigger volume toe box. Good shot of the mid soles here. Yellow on the Spantik is a hard foam...warm and light. The gray/yellow mid sole on the Baruntse is hard rigid platic. Bit heavier but way more rigid. I take a 46 in the Spantik and a 45 in the Baruntse....same sox combinations. I wear a 45 in all the other Sportiva mtn boots. The over all size of the boot is smaller because I can wear a 45 instead of a 46...a good thing on difficult terrain. Some details? The Baruntse lacing system both on the inner boot and the outer boot is superb...better imo and easier to use than the Spantik. Single lace with a velcro closure on the inner boot. Super easy to adjust. Slick system and an improvement over the Spantik. Certainly the lace system is less prone to failure on the Baruntse. I went through three pairs of Spantiks with broken eyelets on inner and outer boot the first year. Old school laces on the Baruntse so you can crank on the outer boot and a simi- modern inner boot lace system still much easier to use and a much better fit for me (narrow heels) than the Spantik inner boot. Inners are marked 44.5/45 in the 45 shell and 45.5/46 in the 45.5 shell. I choose the tightest inner boot with the smallest shell...a 45..using two pairs of liner sox as I have been using in my Spantiks previous. I suspect by the inner boot markings that the shells are actually made in full sizes only....so beware when fitting. Full sizes only with the same inner boots. 44.5 and 45 get the same liner and a 45 shell, 45.5 and 46 get the same liner and a 46 shell. I'd guess 3/8" to 1/2" differenece in shells between the 45 (true 45) and 45.5 (really a 46). That also leads me to believe the full size shells only. Koflach did the same thing. Sucks as the inners pack out with use if your shell ends up being too big. I want heel hold down first and formost so I'll go to the smaller shell. Toe bump is less likely in a dbl if you fit the boot right and more easily fixed with a boot press if you are close like I am on my longer foot. (Sturdavants in Bellevue is THE boot fitting place) Check out the inner boot marking ...mondo point sizing as well. Gone is the extra foam insulation in the Spantik sole that collapses when fit with a really tight crampon binding. That is another good thing imo. A thicker mid sole as well in the Baruntse. Thicker than the rigid Nepal Evo. A good thing imo for a size 45 (12 USA) boot or bigger and that added leverage. Going to make the smaller boots very rigid in the sole and a little harder to walk in than the Spantik I suspect. I had wished the Baruntse would have been slightly less volume and warmth than the Spantik. It isn't. You still have a really big pair of boots with the Baruntse but it will climb better than the bigger volume dbl boots. Still the Barunste looks to be warm enough to easily summit Denali in decent late spring weather without overboots if you are paying attention. The Spantik has the flex of a ski mountaineering boot, like none side ways, and pretty stiff for and aft as well. Not the best boot for French technique in 'pons. The Baruntse is more like...again.. the Nepal Evo. Some side ways flex and progessive flex forwards and back. Easier to walk and more importantly to climb hard technically in or do a little French technioque on that long moderate ice to save your calfs. As you can easily see in the above picture the "last" on the Barunste has a wider toe box. The narrower heel can be laced tighter at the ankle with ease to have great heel hold down. Nepal last compared to the Nupste last I suspect. I'd bet the Baruntse will fit more people easier than the Spantik. Useful gear loops on shells and inner boots of the Baruntse as well. Hate to drop chit when it could get painful Check out the additional tongue material in the Baruntse...less shin bang in a softer flex and better padded inner boot than the Spantik. Sportiva learns from every previous boot model to our benefit. I have been looking for a boot that was "warm" enough (Canada winter), could easily be dried out on over night trips, stiff enough for long sections of hard, moderate alpine ice, still climb technical stuff well with some ankle flex and offer a superb fit. There are some good boots out there that will do almost everything I am asking for. Just not one that would do everything. Hence the boot fetish. The oldest white Kolfach's did it all 30 years ago and weighted less than the the best of the current crop of dbl boots. It only lacked a bit of warmth. The Baruntse is getting close and may just be a tiny bit better than anything else currently available for my own needs. No question it is warmer than an early Kolflach and the weight is coming back down. I suspect the Baruntse will also be the more durable of the three Sportiva's I mentioned. Don't get me wrong. The Spantik still has a place....high and cold, with no over boot required. And obviously it climbs technical terrain very well. A quick look at what the Spantik has climbed should convince anyone of that. But just as obvious the Baruntse isn't just a "de-tuned" Spantik either. Since someone is sure to ask.. The Batura is a even more technical boot (read flexible ankle and smaller physical volume) but a single boot and hard to dry out on multiple day outings and no where near the larger volume (read additional warmth) or support of the Baruntse. Think LWT single boot and super gaiter for the Batura and no where near as warm as the other two boots in the discussion. The Batura is pretty much a tie for warmth with the newest Nepal Evo....the edge for warmth going to the Batura, for the most ankle support (good or bad depending on conditions and type of climb) the winner is the Nepal Evo. Big winner here? US!

OK, but you may end up with some tight mtn boots you can't walk in Sportiva rock shoes I generally wear a 43.5 (tight) or a 44 (decent) but not comfortable. Boreal I use a 9.5 (tight) 10.5 reasonably comfortable for long days. No soxs and lots of baby powder in all of them.

Joseph, I typically wear my rock shoes at least a size or size and a half small. Not a good comparison. I do wear a 11.5 street shoe and in most running shoes which should give a good comparison to my mtn boot sizes. I also don't use much sox in my mtn boots. 2 liners or a mid weight and a liner is all I generally use.

OK, since everyone from Parks Canada employees, to my wife, thinks I have a climbing boot fetish here is my firsthand report on the Baruntse. Just found them available on line yesterday not at Zappos.com as expected but locally at http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/ in Ashford, WA. About a 75 mile drive for me. But I really wanted to know how they would fit. I called, open 7am to 8pm. They had a full size run in stock...along with full size runs of Nepal EVOs and Spantiks. No one in Seattle and may be even WA has a similar assortment of boot styles and sizes. Chad at @ Whittaker mountaineering was kind enough to allow me play time with a range of sizes and compare a pair of Spantiks to the newest Baruntse. I was at the Summit Haus in Ashford a good hr or more fitting boots today. Hey, also worth noting there is a BIG party at Whittaker's next weekend (9/12&13) with food, beer, free lectures, slide shows and a big gear sale...might be worth a trip:) Heck, you could even try on some boots http://www.rainierfestival.com/ OK the boot? First think of a super warm Nepal Evo. Then let me pick apart Sportiva's comments. By actual volume I doubt seriously the Spantik will be a warmer boot than the Baruntse. I have the Spantik, been using it for 2 years and with the Intuition liner. With the after market liner it may be warmer than the Baruntse but not a lot is my take on it. Normal boot and liners in both boots and the Spantik may be a tiny bit warmer only because the Spantik has more insulation in the sole and less lace exposed to trap snow on top of the boot. No question the lower volume fit of the Baruntse will make it a BIG hit with anyone looking for a more user friendly technical boot. The Baruntse is going to be the BOMB as a cold weather technical boot. Again..think way, way, warmer Nepal EVO. The out side volume of the Spantik and the Baruntse is the same but the Baruntse fits a bit smaller. Not the best pictures but trust me virtually same volume on both boots if not the Baruntse having the bigger volume toe box. Good shot of the mid soles here. Yellow on the Spantik is a hard foam...warm and light. The gray mid sole on the Baruntse is hard rigid platic. Bit heavier but way more rigid. I take a 46 in the Spantik and a 45 in the Baruntse....same sox combinations. I wear a 45 in all the other Sportiva mtn boots. Again because of that the Baruntse might well be warmer. The over all size of the boot is smaller because I can wear a 45 instead of a 46...a good thing on difficult terrain. Now some details. The Baruntse lacing system both on the inner boot and the outer boot is superb...better imo and easier to use than the Spantik. Certainly less prone to failure on the Baruntse. I went through three pairs of Spantiks with broken eyelets on inner and outer boot the first year. Old school laces on the Baruntse so you can crank on the outer boot and a simi- modern inner boot lace system still much easier to use and a much better fit for me (narrow heels) than the Spantik inner boot. Inners are marked 44.5/45 in the 45 shell and 45.5/46 in the 45.5 shell. I choose the tightest inner boot with the smallest shell...a 45..using two pairs of liner sox as I have been using in my Spantiks previous. I suspect by the inner boot markings that the shells are actually made in full sizes only....so beware when fitting. I would think the inner boot markings mean a 45 shell is used in a 44.5 and a 45 and a 46 shell is used in a 45.5 and a 46. I'd guess 3/8" to 1/2" differenece in shells between the 45 nd 45.5. That also leads me to believe the full size shells only. So a 44.5 and a 45 will have the same liner and a 45 shell, a 45.5 and a 46 will the same liner and a 46 shell and so on. Koflach did the same thing BITD. Sucks as the liners pack out with use and your shell may end up being too big. I want heel hold down first and formost so I'll go to the smaller shell. Toe bump is less likely in a dbl if you fit the boot right and more easily fixed with a boot press if you are close like I am. (Sturdavants in Bellevue is the boot fitting place) Check out the inner boot sizing...mondo point as well. Gone is the extra foam insulation in the Spantik sole that collapses when fit with a really tight crampon binding. That is another good thing imo. A thicker mid sole as well in the Baruntse. Thicker than the rigid Nepal Evo. A good thing imo for a size 45 (12 USA) boot or bigger and that added leverage. Going to make the smaller boots very rigid in the sole and a little harder to walk in than the Spantik I suspect. I had wished the Baruntse would have been slightly less volume and warmth than the Spantik. It isn't. You still have a really big pair of boots with the Baruntse but it will climb better than the bigger volume dbl boots. Still the Barunste looks to be warm enough to easily summit Denali in decent late spring weather without overboots if you are paying attention. The Spantik has the flex of a ski mountaineering boot, like none side ways, and pretty stiff for and aft as well. Not the best boot for French technique in 'pons. The Baruntse is more like...again.. the Nepal Evo. Some side ways flex and progessive flex forwards and back. Easier to walk and more importantly to climb hard technically in or do a little French technioque on that long moderate ice to save your calfs. As you can easily see in the above picture the "last" on the Barunste has a wider toe box. The narrower heel can be laced tighter at the ankle with ease to have great heel hold down. Nepal last compared to the Nupste last I suspect. I'd bet the Baruntse will fit more people easier than the Spantik. Useful gear loops on shells and inner boots of the Baruntse as well. Hate to drop chit when it could get painful I have been looking for a boot that was "warm" enough (Canada winter), could easily be dried out on over night trips, stiff enough for long sections of hard, moderate alpine ice, still climb technical stuff well with some ankle flex and offer a superb fit. There are some good boots out there that will do almost everything I am asking for. Just not one that would do everything. Hence the boot fetish. The oldest white Kolfach's did it all 30 years ago and weighted less than the the best of the current crop of dbl boots. It only lacked a bit of warmth. The Baruntse is getting close and may just be a tiny bit better than anything else currently available for my own needs. No question it is warmer than an early Kolflach and the weight is coming back down. I suspect the Baruntse will also be the more durable of the three Sportiva's I mentioned. Since someone is sure to ask.. The Batura is a even more technical boot (read flexible ankle and smaller physical volume) but a single boot and hard to dry out on multiple day outings and no where near the larger volume (read additional warmth) or support of the Baruntse. Think LWT single boot and super gaiter for the Batura and no where near as warm as the other two boots in the discussion. The Batura is pretty much a tie for warmth with the newest Nepal Evo....the edge for warmth going to the Batura, for the most ankle support (good or bad depending on conditions and type of climb) the winner is the Nepal Evo.

It is that time of year again..... Current conditions look a lot like this...

"Tom, incredible send!" I agree and it says a lot to post pictures of yourself getting spanked before the send. Class act imo.

One caveat for all the guys that want to sharpen and save their own picks. If you start recutting teeth, make sure you do not cut stress points into the pick. A stress point in steel is generally any sharp angle. So the bottom of teeth need a rounded corner. Use a small round file to finish your transitions from one tooth to the other. Small chainsaw files work well for that. 12" (for picks) and 8" mill bastard and a small triangular file will do screws nicely. Just go slow and keep the original angles on the screw or pick. A vise with padded jaws works fine for picks but I do most of my screws in my hand, held agains my vise as it is faster and easier to change angles as you go. Give it a try, have fun and no matter what tool you use always carry spare picks on the climb! After all they make great pins if required

Thanks John, but no way will I take credit for the BD picks! Luck of the draw on that one A tip for keeping your ice gear in tip top shape season after season? Picks? Petzl recommends you trash any pick that gets filed past the big hooking tooth. Might be an idea if you have a big bank account and don't have a hand file. Other wise don't ditch them so early. I have Petzl picks that are still usable into the second and third tooth. Just takes some gentle reshaping and they might well be a bit stronger than the originals because of the gained cross section. BD's typically break at the 4th or 5th tooth. That short, at first glance, there isn't much to save. More on that below. But no problem recutting a hooking tooth back two or three teeth to keep a worn pick climbing...and again the pick might well be stronger for the effort. Broken BD's? I'd either get them replaced on warrenty or I'd recut and reshape them. Remember some hard stuff has been climbed with some pretty "interesting" gear. If I was using BD gear (and I have/do ) I'd want a file, and the ability to quickly reshape a pick, along with spares on any climb. I have heard of guys who have broken EVERY tool and their spares on climbs. Knowing that is a possibility and having the ability to reshape your gear on demand in just a few minutes takes some stress out of the equation. I might even take to using reshaped broken picks as spares on long, hard alpine climbs. I know they are stronger. Even the reshaped shorter picks are better than almost all of the earliest (and short by comparison) picks available. That early gear climbed some pretty hard stuff! You may not be giving up anything if you reshape your worn out, modern, picks right. Inspect and resharpen all your ice gear before the season starts and do the same right after you get home from every trip. That way the gear doesn't sit around in damp bags and rust. BTW stainless steel rusts just like chromoly...it is just slower and doesn't show as easily. So take note that the newest stainless steel stuff still needs some attention and care. Stainless steel is also softer...better for mixed climbing, maybe a bit, but stainless will require more sharpening. So it will not last as long as a chromoly crampon. A quick inspection, a few stokes of a file and a good shot of WD40 will keep your gear in shape longer, season after season.

For anyone needing picks, crampons or screws resharpened for the upcoming season now is a good time to sort through your gear and send it off. If you are local or looking for someone to do it for you I started doing it commercially for friends last winter. I have a full metal shop and work on similar things every day and have for a long time....been climbing waterfall ice and working on tools since the sport began in the early '70s. I'll do your gear just as I would my own. It is always a compromise between sharp and longivity. I go for sharp 99% of the time but want my own picks to give a reasonable service life as well. Majority of the work is with a hand file so heat isn't an issue. I also charge a little differently. $20 is a minimum charge or $60 per hr shop rate (I break that down by 20 min periods) plus priority mail return shipping. Hopefully that makes it easy to send in everything in your (and your buddies) gear stash that has a ding that you might not want to pay $8.00 a screw for. Cost effective for you. Time efficient for me. Take a look at your screw threads as well. Easy for me to remove the major thread nicks and polish the screw tube so it is easier to place in really, cold, hard ice again. Typical, mildly trashed gear, would be 6 picks and 6 screws resharpened in an hour. Some more, some less obviously. But you can start there as an idea of what can be done in an hour. You send them in, I sharpen them and bill you. Send me a check or pay via Pay Pal after you get the invoice. If something looks funky or expensive to fix I'll call you on my dime first. Turn around is typically 48 hrs. or less. cheers, Dane Let your imagination run wild with a "cheap" Nomic! You can contact me via phone @ 425 391 3202 or email @ rdburns@cnw.com with questions. Shipping address is: Burns Custom 700 NW Gilman Blvd #116 Issaquah WA 98027

My point Kevin...that is hard to make on the Internet...is when people starting slinging names around like "shitty thing to do" or "you're an ass" typically the poster isn't being very objective or usually right. Why routes get renamed besides the historically context where it is accepted may well have many reasons. The .12 on CBR is spectacular and I suspect took some real effort physically and mentally to accomplish aid or free. I think (and it is just me) that giving people shit in public (like the Internet) about what ever they do climbing, short of fucking up the rock or getting someone hurt is really disrespectful of their accomplishments.

Jeezuz don't give Kevin any ideas...the ultimate diss....down grade...from your computer (edit) Kimmo..the funniest thing I have seen so far on this topic...[question] the line was done a year previous? If so that makes some of the earlier CBR posts seem really petty. How about some long over due credit to the real FA party?

Off, you are right, anything I renamed was clearly done in a era when it was common practice to rename lines on the FFA. Roskelley did it on Becky aid lines, I did it on his. I can only speak for myself...but there was no disrespect for the other's accomplishments and no, or at least little, competition. I think we can easily say by what has been posted there was a bit of competition (for good reason imo, nice line and hard climbing) going on between crews on CBR. Everyone wants there efforts recognised. I think that is legitimate. And yes most of the free lines on El Cap are combinations and variations. But most free lines are variations. No question the .12c pitch defines the CBR line. The only disrespect I percieved after reading the CBR thread and this one is that of not giving credit where it is do, both to the guys who came up with the idea of the line and then climb it and then the guys who actually spent the time and effort to free it. And most but not all of that is by those that have never been on the line. Sounds like the Nose if you think about it. Jardine was one of the earliest to come up with the idea. After Bridwell and crew started working Free Blast iirc. Took Lynn Hill to actually pull it off. And yes she could have renamed it anything she'd cared to and as a free climb..the name would have stuck. In the grand scheme of things a year from now most won't give a shit who or how it was done. The credit for the ascent won't matter, 1st or free. What does matter is it is a nice line and just as important a good adventure for everyone involved. Hopefully their experience won't be lowered by igits like us disrespecting their efforts by bantering about it on the Internet. Kevin sez Kev IMO you look like an ass on this topic. Tom and his partner can rename the route or just the pitch. HIS choice historically and rightfully so. After a couple of the posts on the CBR thread I know I would. We can only guess at the motives....as it should be. CBR Full Tilt IV 5.12C COOL! (PS) D. Cramer, who has done as much hard FFAs as anyone locally covered it in less words and better in the other thread.

Nice line, and nice work by all involved! Way to follow through It is a game where you snooze....you loose! Can't see where anyone lost anything though...amazing line that took a lot of effort.

Sure there is some arrogance in renaming a route...but that is climbing. Doing the first free ascent of any aid line is a worthy accomplishment. I've renamed a few myself. And there was some immediate disrespect intended at times but much more there was crowing about the accomplishment. Both are generally short lived for everyone involved. You think Bachar, Kaulk and Long disrespect Hardings accomplishments on the East Face of WA Column? The Huber brothers for Robbins, Chouinard and Frost on NA? Me to Roskelley, Cooper or Becky? There is no disrespect for those that came before me/us. In fact just the opposite. Doubt anyone feels that way in this game. Amazing what has been done before us. You have to see the line (imagine climbing it in what ever style) and get there first. Most (but not all) first free ascents just means you were there when the gear, the community experience level and the physical skill level was higher than in years previous. That doesn't mean YOUR skills and experience levels are higher than the guys who made the 1st ascent. We all know that. If you don't realise that, go try a cutting edge route of 50 years ago with the same gear and approach the 1st ascent party used and see just how "good" you really are. But, isn't every free ascent a note worthy accomplishment for us as "climbers" over an aid ascent if no harm is done to the stone accomplishing that ascent? It is our nature as humans to name things that we find noteworthy. Mountains are a good example of something getting new names...is that disrespect to the native's who call the mtn something else? Bottom line is there is only ONE first ascent. We all know that too, no matter what we choose to call it or how we might define it

Pretty common BITD. Didn't realise there was a bitch. East Face of the Column bacame Astroman. Certainly not the first accepted renaming. Many more renamed just like it. Big difference between A2/A3 stuff that was cutting edge at the time and the 5.11s that were cutting edge 10 or 15 years later. It becomes pretty obvious some lines are NOT the same climb when done free as opposed to being done on aid. But also obvious not every line gets renamed. I'd suspect you are fighting at least a 30, maybe a 40 year old tradition when it comes to aid climbs being renamed when done as free lines.

With ice season coming on never hurts to know a deal if you need one. Sportiva Trango Prime...insulated and a water proof liner-sox...also a wider last, not totally rigid and a non sticky rubber sole. Not impressed for my feet and ended up returning them last winter. Cost $390 Sportiva Ice...insulated, not water proof, light, rigid and warm. They fit narrow feet well. Terrible lace system, imo. On sale many places on the Net from $220 to $270..with no tax or shipping from some of them. $10 at your local cobbler might get you 4 pairs of new hooks on the Ice's cuff. Then you can ditch the funky Sportiva ankle tie/cuff system. This the second pair I have done this mod to. If the last fits your foot, and you are in need of something in this style of boot, the cuff conversion is simple. Sure makes lacing and unlacing your boots a lot easier during the day or if you end up spending the night out in them. The modified lacing seems to work pretty well for hard mixed and "warm weather" ice in the Cascades or on the Parkway. Soft, flexible ankle, so not a huge amount of support but enough to not roll an ankle at the end of the day in a nasty scree/boulder descent. Bit more support than the Prime, a bit less than the Silver colored Trango Evo (another great option, maybe the best of the bunch with Goretex, if found cheaper than $400). Some rocker in the sole so longer approaches won't kill off your feet before you get started. A rigid sole that climbs well with 'pons. A noticably sticky rubber on rock and you still get the nifty little mini gaiter to keep the major chit out of your boots

No right or wrong way as Gene says. Just that one way is a whole lot easier. Kevin, not a big change. They climb like a dumbed down Nomic with a spike. Being able to add the Nomic pick weights will make them even better on water ice than the poorly balanced (in comparison) Quark.

Mountain Hardwear Hooded Compressor Jacket Bought this on sale last summer and used it all winter and spring in the Canadian Rockies and the Cascades. I have a couple of heavier jackets (Wild Things and NF and a similar lwt Patagonia) more akin to what you have posted. The Compressor has become the only climbing/belay jacket I use. As good in cold dry conditions as it has been in the typical wet and sloppy Cascade conditions. Credit given to the outer shell's "dry" finish and the synthetic insulation. It is long enough to keep you warm, short enough to actually climb difficult terrain in. And a hood that works over any helmet. One of the most useful and best pieces of kit I own.

While the BD spinner isn't the only toy in town...imo it is the best yet. Been using it for the last two seasons and have kept a loaner set that my partner's have begun fighting over. I was not a big fan initially. Biners seemed too big, funky swivel added and a bit long in the prototype versions. But the biner's turned out to be hell for stout, easy on and off head or spike on almost any tool we were using and never got in the way. The nylon tape used didn't freeze up even when soaked and the funky little mini swivel kept things untangled for even my klutziest, umbilical hating, partners. The guys already using umbilicals liked the BD prototypes better than their own home made rigs or the Grivel setup with wire gate or locker. By the end of last season even I was convinced as the BD swivel made tight mixed less annoying with umbilicals Glad BD finally made them available commercially so the bitches will stop trying to steal mine. Moke stokage! Our own, immortal, Jr. Flyboy in action sans umbilicals and me on the ice above groveling through a fair size section of overhanging califlower with umbilicals and a TR....

Lower one is the current version. It is easier to clip and unclip being closer to your hand. But why bother with leashes in any form? Climbing leashless is easier. Quark is an awesome leashless tool with the factory grip adaptor. Pull the leashes, add some sticky tape higher up the shaft, maybe a second grip for matching and you are good to go imo. Awesome tool..and with a few mods what I prefer to climb on when not on Nomics.

If you have a piece of cartilage missing from your Femur, totally different problem/answer than a torn meniscus. I had/have the injury your PT guy suggests. The only way to really tell is with an MRI. It took an OATS cartilage transplant to fix mine. Did the surgery in Jan '07 and still doing rehab. But it is better than not having done the surgery...at least I think so most days. Good discussion here: http://www.isakos.com/innovations/oats2.aspx

I wasn't aiming that one at you Steph, not trying to get personal...I saw the guide book reference earlier. Just adding to the dog pile Nice write up and pictures on your TR.

Awesome TR! Great route. But .10a?