Dane

A sensible person would ask, "what should I do with my Sabertooth crampons?" Check and see if they are first gen or second. If they are first gen I'd call BD and ask for a free upgrade. I personally would not climb on them. Obviously Rob would May be he will buy them from you. If they are second gen? At least then you will have a better chance of them surviving a full season. FWIW no way in hell would I climb on a crampon I have seen fail enough to question their reliability. You asked, and that is my opinion. BD says there is nothing wrong with their SS crampons. Rob seems to believe them as well. I have nothing to gain from telling the SS story from my perspective. If you are into yours for $100 and change, I'd call it a cheap lesson and get rid of them (factory return or what ever) Life is short enough that it seems a waste to worry about lack luster gear.

Thanks Ezra, we were just lucky to have so much virgin rock. I doubt all the ratings would hold up today. But a few like, UNI, have done better than expected. But at least the maiority of them were done onsight. The last pitch of Tsunami wasn't one of them though. I think It Ain't Hay is easier than say West Face Direct. And I like the multiple syles of climbing WFD requires over the typical right facing lay backs that IAHay and the cracks on both sides of Chimney offer. Those flakes generally require at least a bit of run out between lay backs. WFDirect is old school 5.8 and if Damnation is any comparison (and we thought it was) now 5.9+ "Still Laird's book seems like a descent effort" Ya, we can agree to disagree on that

Sounds liek a great trip. Congrads on a wonderful summit! Laird says 4 pitches. I understand how you can get three, but four? The third being the 3rd class short pitch onto the north face and getting to the summit. The two short pitches to the right of the chimney up to the blocks just below the summit. If you stay in the chimney the second pitch is Westside Girls, which Laird doesn't bother to show. Also not shown is Peterman's difficult Twin Cracks on the left side of the Chimney on the second pitch. Not the most impressive guide book ever authored. Green's is better for Chimney. Here is the more typical second pitch of the Rappel Chimney which historically was rated 5.6, not 5.7 as Laird has it rated. But you must step a bit right (facing the rock) to get into this crack system. From your pictures it looks to be what you climbed from what I cna tell. Old school 5.6 can be an eye opener

"I ordered it direct from Petzl" 2 feet of tape $10 and shipping 3M Temflex #2155 Rubber splicing Tape from Lowe's (same stuff as Petzl sells) 22 feet of tape $6.00 plus tax

Best do a goggle search on: "Navel Hernia Symptoms in Adults"

Get the long one. And if it is cold you'll want a hooded jacket.

ya finally bought another pair? Or just getting prepared http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/09/something-better-out-there-more-similar.html

I've not seen over 80F in mine but lots of -20C. Took a good hit on mine at -25C and no damage to helmet or me. A simialr hit same day broke one of the less expensive Petzls.

Not done lion tamer but done lots in the area. It does sound like one of the best in the Idaho Selkirks. Gimil on the other hand is a must do.

Here is something else that I think needs to be added to the conversation. Easy to get side tracked on the real issue here, with comments like, "it is your boot, your skill, your body weight, your technique" or now even "the rock". Ya, about that Chamonix granite? I bought a new pair of Dartwins while in Chamonix. I used them on every mixed climb I did there last winter but the two laps mentioned on the Cosmic with SS. The climbing amounted to several 1000' feet including, you guessed it, two additional laps on the Cosmic. Never sharpened and untouched since I got home in April. Judge for yourself how much life is still in these forged, chromoly front points. For me at least another full winter season (2+ months) in Chamonix again. No question Chamonix is hard on gear but I suspect it is because you get to climb mixed any given day if you chose, not that the rock is any harder or more abrasive than granite in Alaska or the Tetons for example. It is just easier to get to and get on. If you keep track (and I obviously do) I also find it interesting that the companies based around Chamonix don't have recent issues breaking picks or the more recent issue of crampon failures. And finally. I could have included these Dartwins in my "crampon metal" comments. I didn't because of several reasons. First, the design is totally different as is the surface area contacting the rock. But if you look closely and actually examine the surface area between the two crampon styles there is a stark difference on what is really available for material to prolong the life of your crampons. Kinda remnds me of a razor blade and an axe in profile. Which is why I didn't add the Dartwin or any vertical front point crmapon to the original conversation.

Easy to get side tracked on the real issue here, with comments like, "it is your boot, your skill, your body weight, your technique" or now even "the rock". Ya, about that Chamonix granite? I bought a new pair of Dartwins while in Chamonix. I used them on every mixed climb I did there last winter but the two laps mentioned on the Cosmic with SS. The climbing amounted to several 1000' feet including, you guessed it, two additional laps on the Cosmic. Never sharpened and untouched since I got home in April. Judge for yourself how much life is still in these forged, chromoly front points. For me at least another full winter season (2+ months) in Chamonix again. No question Chamonix is hard on gear but I suspect it is because you get to climb mixed any given day if you chose, not that the rock is any harder or more abrasive than granite in Alaska or the Tetons for example. It is just easier to get to and get on. If you keep track (and I obviously do) I also find it interesting that the companies based around Chamonix don't have recent issues breaking picks or the more recent issue of crampon failures. And finally. I could have included these Dartwins in my "crampon metal" comments. I didn't because of several reasons. First, the design is totally different as is the surface area contacting the rock. But if you look closely and actually examine the surface area between the two crampon styles there is a stark difference on what is really available for material to prolong the life of your crampons. Kinda remnds me of a razor blade and an axe in profile. Which is why I didn't add the Dartwin to the original conversation.

From a materials stand point the "hot-forged 17-4PH structurally hardened martensitic stainless steel" should work just fine for what Simond has intended. More on 17-4PH http://www.sandmeyersteel.com/17-4PH-spec.html

I have climbed on the Sabertooth and everything else I am listing here but the newst Lynx. After last winter's ss failures showed and now more faulty ss crampons turn up (another new one today on the blog) I have to agree with your thinking. You could get a very bitter after taste from that experience. Sabertooth is easily replaced by the Grivel G12 or Air Tech with as many binding options as well. Either will climb grade V ice or harder easy enough. All the hard climbs both have been used on would be difficult to list. House did his new route on Alberta in a pair of G12s as an easy example. Petzl offers all sorts of options. Vasak, Dartwin, the newest Lynx. Sarken (adjusted correctly) seem to work for a lot of folks just fine on difficult water ice, mixed and in the alpine. Good info here: Andy Kirkpatrick's in particular is worth the read. Andy Turner seems to be another Brit who spends a good deal of time in the Sarken. http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/petzl_charlet_sarken_spirlock http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=206066 http://reviews.mec.ca/9421-en_ca/5014-181/petzl-charlet-vasak-leverlock-crampons-reviews/reviews.htm http://www.pembaserves.com/2011/01/petzl-sarken-crampon-review/ More on choosing a crampon here: http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/getting_the_right_crampon Sabertooth had been my go to crampons for a couple of seasons until this spring. When I switched to the Dartwin for better reliability. But haven't decided if I will get something else or not. Likely the Lynx is in my future and a more comparable replacemnt for the Sabertooth. But the Air Tech is under consideration as well.

"they seem to have a long history of recalls associated with new designs" I wasn't intending a BD bash in my comments. I think you can easily apply dberdinka's comment to any of the climbing hardware manufactures. The real issue is to be aware of what is happening in the industry and be able to make informed choices.

Stainless 'pons are made in SLC USA afaik.

JFS? "the thought has crossed my mind at a few...uh...key...moments." For what it costs, and what we risk, why would anyone ever climb on gear you have to question?

Interesting comment Jens. Last winter while I was in Les Houches/Chamonix, where Simond is located, I was told that Simond had been sold. Turns out that was totally untrue. I just had an email exchange with them and see the web site has been updated and hard goods are still show cased. As far as the steel used in tools? No one gets the "pick of the litter". Every company..here and in the EU...simply orders the specific steel alloy required and it gets delivered. No magic there. The alloy you decide to use, how it is forged (or not forged here in the USA) and heat treated is the real magic. How you define "the best" is up to you.

Some might find this entertaining..it's long. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/crampon-durability-stainless-or.html "The reason behind this particular blog and its information/opinions offered is simple, losing a crampon on route or having a crampon failure while in use can be serious. Fatally serious. That reality bought me to the obvious...a closer look at the quality of the steel used and different manufacturing techniques."

afaik, the new tools aren't in the country yet. Oct/Nov last I checked.

most dangerious place to climb in Oregon..everyone needs a spot..to replace brain not engaged. Obvious reaon why parenting should not be the right of every swinging.... well you get the idea..

You won't want to hear this but the MH Direttissima is a great pack for what you want to do. Nothing suggested that is bigger than your Cilo is any better for the lwt day trips you have planned. And none of the bigger packs are something you'll want to run around the Enchantments with after setting up camp. I've used a bigger pack sucked down for day trips or summits and it is never the perfect answer. Basically you'll want a back packing pack to get into the Enchantments (with a big load if you carry everything you have listed) and then you'll want a climbing pack for the day trips. You'll be hard pressed to beat your set up now. Although I prefer the $30 Flash 18 for lwt day use.

awesome climb btw...have fun!

xx

Fun that this contest made me go look for the original photos instead of scanning a bad photo that was 25 years old. REALLY fun for me to actually find them! Great pictures by everyone..thanks for posting them and the sponosr support!

You guys rock!