hanman

Just last August by yours truly. Needs a good brushin' though for about 25 feet. Typical... MH

Great thread Curt- Here goes... 5.4 or less- Chrome Dome SE face approach(sweet water worn features and a huge quartz dike just before you gain the dome proper) 5.5- Cornucopia P1 5.6- Big Tree P1 5.7- Magic Bus P1 5.8-Broad Daylight P1 (knobs and overlaps), Total Soul P3 crack/seam 5.9- Baloney Pony P1 on Baloney Dome (fun layback when clean, great discontinuous knobs higher), Excalibur Flake(with the no hands rest) .10a- Silent Running bonus pitches, Slab Daddy P10, Centerstage (1st real pitch off the bench) .10b- Urban Bypass ( just prior to rejoining Dreamer where it thins out) .10c- Pig Iron P3? on Wawetkin Dome. (sparse knobs on steepening headwall), Holy Grail P5,( knobs but not one extra), .10d- Centerstage crux pitch (tenuous pure friction with a tiny dish), Ancient Melodies P5(tight steep friction dihedral very sustained footwork) MH

I led this beauty last weekend. A bit "puckery" for my ample frame, but nothing blew. The exposure and feeling of committment is simply incredible with 200 feet of slab diverging away below at roughly the same angle. Adjustable daisy's and makeshift chest harness was very helpful. Thanks for your vision and perseverance Danny- it's a great addition to the area!! MH

Awesome effort Danny. I have been up there many times with a giant pin rack,lots of excuses, and tiny balls (ballnutz jeez;), it's simply amazing that it is hammerless. Great work! Mh

The West Slabs Direct was my first route out there. I and a good friend planned on a bivy at the summit, and were loaded with big packs for bear with a big bottle o' Jaeger and pots and pans etc. Needless to say, we were terrified at the runouts. I recall slumping over at one lone buttonhead weeping softly. Guess they were better than no bolts at all !!!! MH

Great job danny and excellent tr!

Sol- The slabby direct was actually a ground up effort, and I believe was intended as a way to get up to the ledge using fun overlaps and slabs rather than messing around in the gully. The upper area is clearly where it's at!! Beautiful place- MH

Batteries Plus all three and a small charger for about 60$. I have them set up to charge 3 ea. 12V in parallel, then switch to series connection for 36V. Whole thing sits in a small camelback pack (not included). Just make sure you install an inline fuse. Lots better than having to purchase new Hilti batts at 280 each- MH

2002 model reworked to umbilical with gel cells. Great for stance drilling, well balanced and mucho power. I also have the old battery cases if anyone is interested in a recell project. $325 PM if interested, I'll post some pix tomorrow- M. Hanna

Great work Bill! Love that climb- Thank you- MH

A couple things- Most manufacturers recommend using a nylon rather than steel brush as the steel can polish the bore and lessen the bond strength. Always go with the manufacturers recommendations. Hand drilling a 12mm x 4 or 5" hole is brutal labor. Particularly with a RocPeck. Perhaps allow up to 1.5 hours per bolt in good rock depending on the stance. With a hammer of appropriate (heavy) size, I would expect to destroy one RocPeck per every 3 holes. Cheers, MH

For steep/free hanging rope climbing I really like the Croll/Frog method. When I used to do a lot of rope access work I could go about 75 feet a minute.The high efficiency is due to using almost all leg work and capturing as much progress as possible with a well adjusted chest sling. Lesser angles, two aiders, petzl or kong ascender typical set up

That's a great looking line I've stared at many times. Well done!! So cool that Exfo's getting some new lines and ongoing interest. MH

Hey there Roadstead- I'll be over Nov 2! MH

Glad you had fun! Nice to have the road open again, took a drive up myself yesterday. MH

Thanks B- We rapped the Page after a nice high bivy at Olympus Ledge a couple weekends ago. Beautiful route, we'll be back to climb it soon- MH

True indeed...................................

Interesting- Might also be worth noting that many commercially available fall protection lanyards and even a few full body harnesses for industry and construction utilize the elastic design. Having used these for many years, they do seem to fuzz up/wear quickly... :: MH

Indeed- We thought the new/old aspect was fitting, and songbirds were plentiful up there. MH

I have traversed gingerly below this perched mess on a few occasions. It's been in this condition for about 5 years, but will surely be coming off in the not too distant future.

fgw- nice to meet you up there, glad you had a good day, it was cool to see you guys getting to the summit just as we pulled the final moves. Jon- It would not be good to tumble, though I've never heard of anyone taking the ride Our hope is to clean up a direct 3 pitch west slabs start by end of summer in an effort to avoid the gully approach, which is not too tedious in reality...It would be about 5.8 methinks. MH

Added topo 4634.pdf

Trip: Exfo Dome- Proxima Wall - Ancient Melodies (of the Future)III, 5.11- Date: 8/19/2012 Trip Report: Danny Coltrane and I finally finished a new route on Exfoliation Dome in Darrington last weekend. This route is situated on the southern flank of Blueberry Hill, and provides a unique view of the buttress route and summit massif, along with some really exciting climbing on great features. In 2001 or so, good buddy S. Packard and I did an exploratory foray up the right hand margin of this wall, getting a long 3 pitches up and blanking out completely on a vertical smooth headwall before resorting to a few desperate bathooks to a ledge. The new route shares the first pitch of our 2001 effort and the previous high point anchors situated at the bottom of P4. Fast forward 2 kids, 2 dogs, a goldfish, a dozen years, lots of beer, a few pounds of penalty weight, and several new routes in between; I was drawn to the place once again in 2011. A big thanks to good friend JR Storms for humping loads on several occasions! Upper right flank of BBH P2 View from Blueberry rt Workin the veggies Frog pond on the sidewalk P4 Part way up P3 Route tops out at the gendarme straight up from my sexy head Danny on P3 crux traverse Pronounced rib at P1, top of approach gully

I don't think so, but you might pm bkwakaranai. Most everything is in the sun if I recall, though it's been a few years since I checked it out....

Wow off- great approach variation. I've always soldiered on through the devils club infested head high ferns, head down swearing softly about a somehow better route. The thing really does need to be dry though, then it is alot of fun. How was the mule? Haven't been up in a few years. I would definately like to go back and add a pitch or 2 to get to the top of the chasm gulley. Mh