Bill_Simpkins

I highly reccomend High Mountain Woody on the Upper Malamute (sometime crowded). There are some other cracks, 5.9-10a/b on the same wall. They are pretty easy for the grade with one or two small well protected cruxes and the rest is pretty easy climbing. I like Dru's list above. Pretty much sums it up.

"Generally, the high-sensation-seeking types fall into four broad categorizations. Some fill more than one: thrill and adventure seeking; experience seeking (non-conformity or impulsiveness, for example); disinhibition seeking (such as multiple sex partners, drugs or drinking); and boredom susceptibility."

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174 This is why the accident happened. Is because there was slack in the rope and the client built up speed. The conditions were really icy and the guide was putting in pro, when the client walked closer to him(to talk or something), putting slack in the rope and then fell, pulled another and then the guide. Apparently, there is still a long visible gouge in the snow where the guide tried to arrest the fall. So you are saying the client was moving toward the guide? The guide saw the client moving toward him? If this is the case, and the guide saw the client moving him, then it would not matter if there was slack or no slack. The guide would be ripped off. If the guide is leading a taught line and the client falls and the clients yells "falling", guess what? The guide is immediately ripped out of his position. If the guide has a short amount of slack and client falls and the client yells "falling", guess what? The guide has a very short window to get into self arrest. I guess your choice is to be immediately ripped out of position rather than have the opportunity for a short window. I do not take the same opinion on flat ground, or going downhill where the guide is in the rear position. They were descending and the guide was on the uphill side.

I've stopped slides with slack and without, let me tell you, slack sucks! It is MANY times harder to stop a fall when the momentum has built up. It's all about momentum. Momentum=mass times velocity. The mass is constant, but the velocity changes depending on the angle of the slope, but very fast. The more monetum that builds up, the more force it takes to stop the fall. SIMPLE. However, if you are using a VERY long chunk of dynamic rope, the rope stretch could help you a bit. Why do you think when guides are tested on their arresting skills they allow the guini pig to build up speed with slack in the rope? Because it's WAY harder to stop it!

I charge my camera about once a month. If it's important to you, just bring a cheap film camera and a couple rolls.

He never said it was enforceable. Life in prison for anal sex?! More like, life of anal sex in prison!

That is why I like to have the rope not taught when going uphill. I like that extra second to hear someone yell "falling" before I get yanked at the same time they yell "falling". See thread here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post332174 This is why the accident happened. Is because there was slack in the rope and the client built up speed. The conditions were really icy and the guide was putting in pro, when the client walked closer to him(to talk or something), putting slack in the rope and then fell, pulled another and then the guide. Apparently, there is still a long visible gouge in the snow where the guide tried to arrest the fall.

Rapple Grapple Over Exposure

I like the Leepers too. The thing that worries me about cam hooks is that sometimes you hear the rock crunch a little when you step on the aiders. Not worried so much about falling as ruining the rock. The edges dig into the rock a little and possibly scar the crack after extensive cam hooking over the years. Possibly maybe. I try to use cams first, then stoppers, then cam hooks. Cam hooking hasn't been around long enough to really notice the erosion from them. We'll see what happens. City Park will be a good place to look in a couple years. Try putting a few Lowe Ballz or Ballznuts on your aiders with your cam hooks and see if there is that much of a time difference.

These are some personal guidelines, probably left some out. I avoid resting in areas with loose rock above. I move fast in places with loose rock above. If you are in a talus field, how fresh does the talus look? The rock chunks got there somehow. Look at the base of the face you are on, is there lots of fresh rockfall? Does the snow below the rock have rock on it or signs of recent rockfall? Is it warming up fast? Be extra careful. What is your gut feeling? Speed up? Get out of here?Follow it, within reason. Depending on place and rock, rockfall is a bit worse early season. What is your plan if you see rocks hurling toward you? Run back? Lay down? Is there a safe spot very close? Are there other climbers around? Could you hit them, can they hit you? Will your rope bring lose rock with it when you pull it? If you the rock that you are holding onto or standing on pulls will you fall? Do you have something else on something that may not pull with it? Do you hear other rockfall around you? I like travelling alone around loose rock or not talking so I can hear whats going on around me. I get a little nervous when people are blabbing away and theres choss city above us. Biggest rule, move fast and careful.

Alpine Pizza: No cooking! Buy pizza at a restaurant. Cool. Fold in half then fold again. Wrap in tinfoil. Provides a day or two of food.

Summer Cheese Stack Express Ingredients: Sliced Summer Sausage Sliced Cheese Put slice of cheese on summer sausage slice. Serve.

This is bad news. We should send over 50 of our best snipers to take out their leaders. Save the kids. Better yet, go over and offer all the children sanctuary if they kill their enslavers all at once and flee.

Thanks guys. I just called the warden at Roger's Pass. He said lot's of fresh snow and the normal rock routes are out of shape right now. Plus avalanches. I think I'll find something else to do this weekend. Thanks again.

Funny offwidth Squamish Tale Make sure to click on his links to the next episodes at the bottom of each page. It's pretty funny stuff.

Right ... but I am at work and its Monday morning. What I meant is I heard of icy conditions in the Canadian Rockies, so it made me wonder of the conditions at Rogers Pass, being, that they are both much farther east than my current position and I have no dirrect experience with any other areas than our local ranges this season.

I heard a rumor of cold temperatures and snow and ice still on normally dry summer rock climbs in the Canadian Rockies. Specifically, I'm wondering what the conditions are on Sir Donald before we drive all the way there this weekend. Thanks.

The answer lays within your statement. The problem is, we have to find a politicion. One is not coming forth saying with a strong voice that state they are here to solve our problems. There is noone out there in the spotlight that people think, "this guy IS going to be a good presisent someday." You know, at least Clinton, Reagan, Carter, Kennedy had some pation and character. Even though he's not perfect, I think Jesse Ventura is the closest thing to a good leader we've seen in years. Too bad that ended where it did. My fantasy dream president: Carl Sagan. RIP

It's funny that we look back in history and see people being had, all over the place, but for some reason, people don't ususally think it is currently happening. Wishful thinking? Lack of applied knowledge? Who knows? Fact is, if you look back in time, there is always someone being had. Always. How is that any different now? The trend continues. Being skeptical of the governemnts activities is important and history shows that someone, somewhere is up to no good. It is no good to live a paranoid life, but I think we currently live in a state of paranoia because we feel so out of control of what the government is doing. The wall between us and them seems to be building higher and higher. History shows that bad things happen to counties where the governemnt slips out of the hands of the people and the leaders are consumed with power. We see it happening to us right now, but since we don't want to be inconviencienced with those thoughts and wish for simple happy lives, we do nothing about it. Thus, our fate is sealed.

Bush is using time tested advertising techniques of fear to sell his product. That's why he throws in, what he now uses as a buzz word, "9-11" into every other sentence. The people that buy it are being doofed. It does not matter if "9-11" is connected to Iraq or not. Spitting the term out is intended to make us afraid, and when people are afraid, they ususally seek a leader. Then he is standing right there, leading us, and we are following. Classic. This is textbook stuff. Again, I'm stating the obvious. Carry on.

I agree. Kerry didn't really fit the bill. Too bad Gore really started to open up and show his passion for the issues AFTER he ran in 2000. I think if Gore ran today, right now and showed his true devotion to the issues, he would smoke Bush.

My partner is an RMI guide. He told me that Lucia is a pretty stout guy and was suprised anyone dragged him anywhere. It doesn't take much to knock someone over if tugged just right.

Sometimes I just get tired of ropes and gear, especially on short easy routes where you spend 10-20 dealing with the gear for 2 minutes of climbing.

I lost over 20 pounds since January. Most important, I stop eating before I get full, just one good serving, not a bunch of smaller ones. Next, I never let myself get hungry. If you get hungry before a meal, eat a handfull of raw almods or something. Avoid(not eliminate) anything with flour and processed sugar. I did this, 20 pounds. I am never hungry and have lots of energy. The first days are hardest, then after 2-3 days you'll notice that smaller meals keep you happy.

Enchantments. Hannagen Pass to Copper Ridge then down to river then back. Basically, if you are spending part fo the trip on a volcanoe, I'd spend the other part in the alpine. So much to see.