Bill_Simpkins

If you need a lift from Bellingham or want to climb a bit send me a message. I'll be in Sqaumish bouldering and/or cragging until Sunday evening. I'll check my messages again before I leave. I don't climb very hard routes (unless Polish Bob refuses to lower me down until I send and my kidneys are aching from the harness).

It doesn't rain as much as Seattle Rainy days are usually on the weekend The food is great downtown Homes are expensive Females outnumber males 3/1. 2/3 of them are mean There is some ok bouldering at Larabee and Sehome Hill Sandstone gets old Close to Sqaumish. When you want to go to Sqaumish, it's always raining Really good skiing and snowboarding The runs are short

Excel spreadsheet.

And now the people of Flagstaff can sleep easy knowing that the water they drink have cleansed the sweat off your nuts.

Show him how to belay in the 5.0 corner at Barnies Rubble then Lead XY crack (show him how to jam and clean) and have him follow up, then rappel. Follow it up with R&D. Stop at the Sleeping Lady for lunch on the way to Midway. Climb Midway. End the day with a beer at Uli's.

Midway doesn't seem polished as it seems greasy. It seems there is a light layer of skin oil on it. Maybe it just needs a good cleaning. Hot soapy water Some of the cracks in Yosemite are so polished it's literally like glass inside. However, in cracks it's kind of nice because you have less stuff digging into the back of your hand.

Very nice!

I take off my steel crampons for the cleaver. Just clip them somewhere, no need to take the time to put them on/in your pack. Just takes a few seconds. I've seen too many people stumble and step on the rope with poons on the cleaver. Plus, up higher on the cleaver is a good place to change layers etc..., you'll probably take them off anyways. my $0.02 : I'm a lightweight packing freak, but I still don't think aluminum poons are up to snuff. I don't use them ... yet. You can bend the teeth by walking on ice or kicking steps. You really want to lose a point on Rainier? They are dullish too. If the snow your on takes crampons that dull, you probably don't really need to wear them (knocks on wood). There are some minimalist steel poons out there that aren't obsurdly heavier than aluminum ones. I vote for getting lighter boots and using good sturdy crampons.

I got rid of my cellphone because I saw every other person walking around talking on one. What happened to enjoying the things around you? Anyways, I didn't want to be like that. People can leave a message at home or send me an email. The world isn't going to end if I call them back later. Plus, if we talk on the phone so much, there is nothing left to talk about in real life. Disconnect yourselves!

Sure looks like a hand jammy.

This is nice too.

Old Settler, Bardine, Wedge Mount, Dione. Glacier Peak, Luna, Bear, Jack etc etc...

I think I saw you guys. I was the dude getting spanked by the boulder problems.

I'm leaving for Leavenworth by myself right now. I'm going to hike up into the Enchantments and camp tonight. Tomorrow when I return to the car I'll probably be soloing around unless I run into one of you. If you see a black toyota truck with a window busted out of the canopy, leave a note on the windshield if you want to hook up Sunday afternoon.

Saturday and Sunday?

Isn't it raining right now?

Steep and wet heather slopes.

Everything has its ups and downs. I usually avaiod a cordellete by using a Self-Equalizing Figure Eight knot with the rope. It's dynamic/self eqaulizing and fast to tie. Just tie a figue eight on a bite then thread the bite back through the top most loop of the figure eight. Bingo, a 2-3 point self equalizing anchor. Not very good for leading in blocks, but good for swapping leads. A cordellette is great for leading in blocks.

Very nice.

Sharma is pretty impressive. His ascent of Dreamcatcher 14d (on youtube) is cool. Don't know if that makes him the best, but more than likely alot better than us.

The Mammut Alpine Lite is my favorite!!!!! I love it! http://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/harness/mammutalpinelightharness.htm

Mt Baker is a good training hike.

NF Shuksan, ski White Salmon, hitch hike to Heather Meadows, ski to Ptarmigan Ridge, climb Park Glacier, ski back to Heather Meadows.