minx

in this particular situation i was lucky to get 3 pieces in. they were all way too close together in the same crack for my liking. a directional definitely wasn't an option. i actually considered it but felt like it would've added to the cluster instead of helped. i weighted my anchor and got a solid stance figuring that my partner doesn't weigh much more than me and hopefully if he fell that would minimize any shock load on the anchor. in short...it seemed cleaner not to do that.

i don't want to be that sketched on routes that far below my limit. clearly, my limit isn't what i thought it was. we had to go climb nice granite at l'worth to make ourselves feel better after the last outing to peshastin. to quote my partner after a particularly annoying, sketchy ptich "peshastin happens"

sweet! where are you climbing on saturday? the kidlet and i could use some climbing partners.

ditto. it sucks. period. there's no gear and what gear there is totally blows and is sketchy at best ESPECIALLY on that slab. some of the spacing on those bolts blows too. if you're going to bother to put in bolts, personally i'd like to see them a bit closer than 25' apart, particularly if there's no pro between bolts. but hey that's just me.

since all my gear gets to be replaced that includes a gear sling. have any of you used the metolius sling w/the gear loops? i've shyed away from this in the past but it seems like it might work nicely for keeping things a tad more organized. any opinions?

i would've mentioned it but my partner wasn't particularly interested in talking to me at that moment. i'd spent about 10 min trying to come up w/a better anchor while he was standing in the cold belaying me. he was a might bit cranky. but you make a good point since he is prone to experimenting on easier pitches.

this w/e my partner and i head up what in theory is a couple moderate pitches to start the day. turns out the route has few options for placements and what few there are suck relatively. i set up an anchor that is sketchier than i'd like. normally b/c of the position of the anchor, i would've set up my belay from the anchor. in this case i set up from harness figuring that if he did fall hopefully my body would absorb some of the impact rather than my sketchy anchor. is that realistic or does it matter?

i just read a little tidbit about insurgents in iraq blowing up an oil well. there seems to be lots of this type of thing occurring in several parts of the country but from different groups. are all the "insurgents" in iraq after the same thing. if not how does anyone ever figure out a way to establish a stable government there? if you find some happy ground w/one group you'd still have "insurgents" from another right? i realize that spray is hardly the best place to get a good answer but none the less i'm asking...

hopefully you mean the chlorinated gene pool

please review my first official post as spray moderator. misspellings will not be tolerated. you could be banned at any moment!

for some good info on beer www.beer.com* *not necessarily safe for every work place

wasn't that Lucky?

ok-so just to add some thread drift...which doubles do you like and anyone know of a good deal on them.

they got bitch slapped b/c they had moved in on somebody else's territory and taken it by force. no one likes that. then they held out an olive branch. i know how i'd feel "gee thanks, you want to be neighbors after you've come in and taken by force what doesn't belong to you" it really annoys me when i agree w/erik but in this case i think he's pretty much hit the nail on the head.

hey you guys don't encourage this sort of behaviour from rumr. if he doesn't straighten up he could lose his belay card!

in my not so humble opinion you're both idiots. the mountains are not yours and yours alone. i'd rather see less people there but if they're going to go scott and whomever else might as well make some coin off of it. i just don't see what your problem is. earn the right??? how else do they earn the right? they start out by going on easy trips and gain experience and skills. mr. doolittle why don't you move back to the woods and go climb in secret from now on so i don't have to read your drech. cbs can visit you often.

this goes out to mr. doolittle and all the rest of you bashing scott and those of you who bash guides/guiding/seeking organized instruction: we were all unskilled at some point. someone taught us how to do things or we explored on our own and learned. i don't care how the learning occurs for each person. some people feel more comfortable with a guide during their first outdoor experiences. some people just want a ride to the choice locations. whatever. there are certain organizations i will avoid, there are certain people from whom i've learned tremendously and there are particular commercial outfits with whom i plan to spend some time and $$$ learning more. insulting people for learning in any reasonable way is just lame.

so don't climb for a while? if you miss it enough you'll get inspired and start again and enjoy it again. if you don't, you'll find a new obsession and find great pleasure in partaking of it.

back to the original topic--- it's simple bush is such a disgrace to politics and the office of president that even republicans can't be too supportive. it's easy to get the anti-bush coffee klatch together b/c he is a pathetic excuse for a world leader. chew on that.

because it sucks and there is no camping as far as I know and i think the fourth is just a couple weeks away right?

yeah--boulder boy can crank pretty friggin hard when attached to the end of rope too. luke's a cool kid. just b/c he's got an unnatural affection for pebbles doesn't mean he should get slammed. but then again sometimes it's funny

the thing i think is funny about this is that distel can crank pretty damn hard w/a rope attached to him. have fun bouldering in the desert

and i thought i was a dysfunctional poor excuse for a parent....

yesterday evening, my partner in crime and i decided to go for a quick jaunt over to vantage. i've been sick this week and feeling worse by the day but i figured that a little sun might help the cause and belaying and maybe heading up a few easy pitches might not be deadly. in the last couple weeks i've found my confidence wavering and my ability to push myself lagging. after having my ass handed to me at smith, i was definitely on a low ebb. my partner has been climbing well but injured. he too had his ass handed to him at smith. an easy day seemed in order to prop up sagging egos well after one easy pitch, my partner heads up a moderate but eye opening lead. he sends it in nice form but it seems like that might the toughest thing we do for the day. as i'm fiddling around w/the rope, i spy him looking at the book and then looking at a particular pitch and not saying much. w/o much discussion of the matter he announces that he's going for it. it's by far the toughest thing he's ever tried to lead. i throw out some encouraging words and he starts up. it's got some tough moves right off the ground but the obvious crux is a ways up. he gets to the crux, has a look makes a couple small attempts, clips a bail biner to the bolt. ithink he's coming down. nope, suddenly he throws himself at it. in no time at all and w/only one heart stopping moment he's at the top. after watching him send this pitch suddenly i am feeling more motivated to go out push myself again. it was great to watch him overcome some recent blows to his confidence and just go forit. it was a great reminder that your partner's successes can really add something to your climbing. and to dave -- fuck yeah! nicely done!!!

bunglehead, just for your "future" reference, most of those side effects occur in less than 1% of patients. the FDA requires that every noted possible side effect be included in labeling. don't be afraid of the vanity drugs. come on...you know you wanna be some hottie when you're 80 doesn't need cialis