minx

do a search for city of rocks. there was good thread on the climber's board maybe a year or so ago. try some of the new stuff and give us a report. i've heard good things.

you'll note that was my only post in spray yesterday. and if you call me minxie again i'm going to have to start pulling hair and calling you fat

It's true, boys damn it! how come i don't get the password to the women's only forum. i promise to wear some make up or something

masochism?

If that's the case, then the problem might be your partner's gear shifting up! no, he's a good partner, he knows just when to shift gears. CBS- do you always rack on the same side? i often switch b/c of the nature of the route. and all normal people rack on the left side anyway...sheesh! didn't think about the reversiblility issue

for the sake of argument i was belaying my partner up so it was in essence a TR situation. i have used a directional if my anchor was good and i thought it would make rope handling easier. in this case, rope management wasn't as high on my list as trying to find a fourth piece. i'm a tad conservative and prefer a 4piece anchor if it's reasonable.

sounds like this has been a great trip for you in so many ways. i hope you write a looooooooong TR for us. i'm envious!

i think the shipping from AK might be nearly as expensive as buying one my chest is configured a little differently than erik's and will's. i might not have the exact same type of problem w/the gear shifting up yeah..it'll smell like a sweaty girl climber instead of sweaty guy climber which so much better

in this particular situation i was lucky to get 3 pieces in. they were all way too close together in the same crack for my liking. a directional definitely wasn't an option. i actually considered it but felt like it would've added to the cluster instead of helped. i weighted my anchor and got a solid stance figuring that my partner doesn't weigh much more than me and hopefully if he fell that would minimize any shock load on the anchor. in short...it seemed cleaner not to do that.

i don't want to be that sketched on routes that far below my limit. clearly, my limit isn't what i thought it was. we had to go climb nice granite at l'worth to make ourselves feel better after the last outing to peshastin. to quote my partner after a particularly annoying, sketchy ptich "peshastin happens"

sweet! where are you climbing on saturday? the kidlet and i could use some climbing partners.

ditto. it sucks. period. there's no gear and what gear there is totally blows and is sketchy at best ESPECIALLY on that slab. some of the spacing on those bolts blows too. if you're going to bother to put in bolts, personally i'd like to see them a bit closer than 25' apart, particularly if there's no pro between bolts. but hey that's just me.

since all my gear gets to be replaced that includes a gear sling. have any of you used the metolius sling w/the gear loops? i've shyed away from this in the past but it seems like it might work nicely for keeping things a tad more organized. any opinions?

i would've mentioned it but my partner wasn't particularly interested in talking to me at that moment. i'd spent about 10 min trying to come up w/a better anchor while he was standing in the cold belaying me. he was a might bit cranky. but you make a good point since he is prone to experimenting on easier pitches.

this w/e my partner and i head up what in theory is a couple moderate pitches to start the day. turns out the route has few options for placements and what few there are suck relatively. i set up an anchor that is sketchier than i'd like. normally b/c of the position of the anchor, i would've set up my belay from the anchor. in this case i set up from harness figuring that if he did fall hopefully my body would absorb some of the impact rather than my sketchy anchor. is that realistic or does it matter?

i just read a little tidbit about insurgents in iraq blowing up an oil well. there seems to be lots of this type of thing occurring in several parts of the country but from different groups. are all the "insurgents" in iraq after the same thing. if not how does anyone ever figure out a way to establish a stable government there? if you find some happy ground w/one group you'd still have "insurgents" from another right? i realize that spray is hardly the best place to get a good answer but none the less i'm asking...

hopefully you mean the chlorinated gene pool

please review my first official post as spray moderator. misspellings will not be tolerated. you could be banned at any moment!

for some good info on beer www.beer.com* *not necessarily safe for every work place

wasn't that Lucky?

ok-so just to add some thread drift...which doubles do you like and anyone know of a good deal on them.

they got bitch slapped b/c they had moved in on somebody else's territory and taken it by force. no one likes that. then they held out an olive branch. i know how i'd feel "gee thanks, you want to be neighbors after you've come in and taken by force what doesn't belong to you" it really annoys me when i agree w/erik but in this case i think he's pretty much hit the nail on the head.

hey you guys don't encourage this sort of behaviour from rumr. if he doesn't straighten up he could lose his belay card!

in my not so humble opinion you're both idiots. the mountains are not yours and yours alone. i'd rather see less people there but if they're going to go scott and whomever else might as well make some coin off of it. i just don't see what your problem is. earn the right??? how else do they earn the right? they start out by going on easy trips and gain experience and skills. mr. doolittle why don't you move back to the woods and go climb in secret from now on so i don't have to read your drech. cbs can visit you often.

this goes out to mr. doolittle and all the rest of you bashing scott and those of you who bash guides/guiding/seeking organized instruction: we were all unskilled at some point. someone taught us how to do things or we explored on our own and learned. i don't care how the learning occurs for each person. some people feel more comfortable with a guide during their first outdoor experiences. some people just want a ride to the choice locations. whatever. there are certain organizations i will avoid, there are certain people from whom i've learned tremendously and there are particular commercial outfits with whom i plan to spend some time and $$$ learning more. insulting people for learning in any reasonable way is just lame.