catbirdseat

It's a good thing for the rest of us that not everyone thinks TRs are too much work to write!

The problem with this perspective is that by merely occupying so many routes, you place the burden on the other users to have to go and ask. Most people avoid conflict and I know I would rather just go elsewhere than have to enter a large group, not knowing who is running things and boldly make some request in front of a big group, only to be told that someone is climbing that. Grow a pair and speak up. Jeez, it's not hard. "hey, can I jump on a route here?" real tough. Knowing that a lot of people are rather shy, if I have a rope up and no one is climbing that very instant, I'll say, "hey, if you want to climb this route, feel free to tie in or pull the rope if you want to lead it".

I have witnessed isolated instances of which you speak, but for the most part, and I speak for my own Branch of the Mountaineers, we are for the most part following accepted safe practices.

That looks like Zig Zag Wall at Vantage to me.

I second summerprophet's recommendation of Yosemite Bum. Their work is very neat and thorough. They took a pair of shoes that I thought might be finished and gave them new life.

Trip: Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca - Whodunit Date: 5/30/2009 Trip Report: FA: Joe Fitschen and Royal Robbins September 1957, FFA: Tom Higgins and Bob Kamps 1966 Type: Trad Consensus (Mountain Project): 5.9 Length: 8 pitches, 800 feet This route is probably the single most popular route at Tahquitz Rock, so either get there early or be prepared to stand in line. Ed Sefner and I had done a couple routes together last summer, including Sahara Terror and West Lark. We'd been planning to do Whodunit as soon as we had a good opportunity. Ed was dealing with back problems last year, but this year he's been doing a lot of swimming and is in good shape. Since he offered to lead the crux pitches, I couldn't refuse. We drove out in my Honda Element after meeting up a the P&R in Orange. We arrived about 9 am and the lot at Humber Park was jammed with cars. We could already see climbers on Whodunit which faces directly towards the lot. Taking his rack (supplemented with my microstoppers and small cams) and my rope we set off for the Lunch Rock trail, which we found in excellent repair, owing to a recent work party by ten local climbers (so I learned from SuperTopo.com). We arrived at the base with climbers on the second pitch and two waiting to start. We weren't in a big hurry so we relaxed and watched the show. The follower of the first team was making a lot of noise. First there was a cam he couldn't clean and then he had trouble with the chimney. The two climbers we spoke to were experienced. The guy who led the first pitch could climb 5.13 we were told, but actually had to put some thought into negotiating the first overlap. Once they had started cleaning the second pitch we set out with Ed leading. When he got to the overlap he set a couple of the little Metolius brassies I'd given him. Later he said he couldn't have pulled it off without them. He used those a lot on this climb. We put way to much crap in the pack I was wearing, a lot of which was water. In fact we shouldn't have brought a pack at all. I made it up the overlap without any slips, but it was exciting climbing. There always seems to be a little hold where you need it, if you look hard enough. I lead the second pitch (5.7) which went smoothly to a small ledge below the chimney. Ed led the chimney without any problems. When it was my turn to follow, I wide stemmed my way up rather than use chimney technique because of the pack. The exit moves are probably the crux of this pitch. Stemming is the key. The sky was clouding up as I led the 5.8 fourth pitch up an offwidth in a RFC. Because of numerous features it wasn't hard but I didn't get much protection but didn't really need it. The belay was the nicest on the route and we took a moment to eat and drink. Setting off on the fifth pitch, Ed managed to kick me in the nose. He must have been tired cause he was sketching and making me really nervous. But he settled down and continued out of sight. Big, fat rain drops started to pat down here and there as I silently wished Ed would speed it up. By the time I set off it was pouring down rain with a little hail mixed in. Having come this far we weren't turning back, so I gritted my teeth and climbed. BOOM!- a lightning strike on my right! Damn! Water was pouring down the rock and I was very unsure of my feet, so I probably yarded with my arms a lot more than necessary. I even moved a cam to A0 a move. BOOM! Another lightning strike, even closer. My climbing took on a desperate quality as I yelled, "keep me tight!" Arriving at the belay. Ed didn't sound all that confident in his anchor which consisted of three micro stoppers, so I climbed up and beefed it up with a couple cams. He pointed out a bolt on a roof to the left, and suggested that was the way. I tried aiding it but couldn't pull the roof. The wet lichen was just like Teflon. I finally backed off, and told Ed there had to be another way. There was, round to the right. There wasn't much pro, but there were good edges to pull on and after a short 5.8 section I was on easy ground and ran it out the entire rope length to the summit. There, we met a couple of friendly locals with whom we chatted as the sun came out and we dried out. They had done Super Pooper, 5.10b, and were waiting for a couple of Brazilian friends who were behind us on Whodunit. Those guys ended up bailing in the rainstorm. We left an orange TCU on the 6th pitch. Ed was too cold and wet to want to dick with it, and I didn't blame him. We all met up in the parking lot and had a beer together and shared a few stories as it grew dark. There was a soggy note from our friends at the FS because I hadn't shown the required Adventure Pass. First time they had nailed me in several visits. Gear Notes: We brought too many cams! You only need one set to 4", with a good selection down to the smallest sizes. This route takes nuts really well. Bring some RP's or brass micros stoppers. Using a 60 meter rope, the route can be done in 6 pitches. Approach Notes: Can either take the talus slopes for the north side routes and go right, or take the Lunch Rock trail and go left. It's about the same time either way. Whodunit is just right of center. Sahara Terror at Center. Second Pitch. Third (or Chimney) Pitch. Ed after fourth pitch.

Damn, you could bury a lot more than a hatchet!

That certainly was an interesting review.

It goes to show you how important communication is. Also, that it is best to give the other guy the benefit of the doubt. There's a learning opportunity here for everyone.

Crampons can be a bit hard on wood floors.

I've seen it more than once on Tahquitz Rock with ledges I thought were less than bomber.

Some leaders will call off belay before they have even built an anchor. If you are climbing with such a person, I suggest you do not tear down the anchor until they have given the On Belay signal.

From the LA Times. http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-ventura-slayings22-2009may22,0,3642542.story A few houses up the street, Malinda Chouinard, the wife of Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard, said that sometime after 10 p.m., she and her husband heard furniture being shoved around and doors in their home opening and closing. She assumed it was their houseguest -- but later, when helicopters were churning overhead and a reverse 911 call ordered residents to stay inside and lock their doors, they grew worried. "Clearly, someone was in my house," she said. Hours later, they learned that their guest had been stopped at a police blockade and did not make it to their home until 4 a.m. Police searched the house twice but found nothing.

When you have manufacturing problems, often it comes down to the design. Since the braze is the most consistent problem here, seems like the solution would be to put in that weep hole (previously mentioned) so you can verify that the joint is filled with metal. Your braze could still be brittle, but at least you've filled your joint.

How is it that failure of a single device leads to decking from 75 feet? How many of you would trust your life to a single placement at that distance from the ground. Having said that, I imagine there are a fair number of bold routes that just don't protect that well, but then safety is ensured by not falling. BTW, eldiente, you are so lame.

I just call it a slip knot. When cinched up properly it makes the sling less likely to slide off the chicken head. A girth hitch works too, but you need a much longer sling for that to work. One of the weak points of Ivan's chickenhead anchor is that it might fail if the belayer were to get pulled up from above. The solution is to simply belay from well below the anchor, such that there could be no possible fall large enough that you'd be pulled up enough for the anchor to fail. I had to do that once on Mixup where all I could get was a big horn with a cordellette looped over it.

Bring a blue bag or your own porta potty.

Is it tiny like a Camp Nano?

This is a very important point. One of the things you should check on is the number of guy points your tent has. You don't need to bring a guy line for every attachment point but bring at least four and move them to the places they are needed most once the tent is pitched. I remember a time I was camped at a lake and the wind clocked to the right by 90 degrees during a late afternoon. I kept having to relocate the guy ropes in a clockwise fashion.

You done gone off the deep end. There are people who can help you.

It's pretty clear that you are mountaineering and not backpacking. You want a 4 season tent if you are climbing volcanoes. There are some nominally three season tents that will work, for example the Walrus Rapeed, but you want to go freestanding. Having said all that, I've backpacked in the Sierra with an ultralight tarp tent and it did great in a big thunderstorm (well guyed out).

It might have been that place in Arlington, which is pretty good. Darrington is tough for finding food of any kind after hours.

Forteo or teriparatide, is a drug made by Ely Lilly, approved by the FDA in 2002 for prevention of osteoporosis. It is a synthetic form of human parathyroid hormone. Recently a clinical trial was completed that showed the drug is very effective at aiding the healing of bone fractures. This could be a boon to rock climbers for fast recovery. Forteo

They used to have a barrier of rocks bolted together with metal tape, closing that dirt road, but people took sledgehammers to it. They need to put something more substantial like a two ton Jersey barrier, to keep the dumb f---s out.

Now you're talking! That's true recycling, baby!