catbirdseat

I think that Honda started putting better theft deterrent systems on their cars after the 2000 model year. They are now a lot harder to steal. They are using smart keys now, but they weren't back then, were they?

Nice report!

For those familiar with the CC rap route to descend from Blueberry Terrace, it takes about 4 double 60 meter rope rappels to get down to a small terrace with trees on it. From there one has to rappel a low angle slab which is just a bit too steep for most people to downclimb. The anchor used to be a bunch of tat eminating from a cluster of trees. Pulling the ropes was always a chore. Now there is a pair of bolts with blue and red (recycled) webbing and rap rings to go from. Ropes pull easily now. If you descend by the rap route be absolutely sure your ropes both 60 meters long. Otherwise your choices are Westward Ho, Dark Rhythm or Jacob's Ladder.

So Mountainmatt, it was you who we met there today. Sorry I didn't get to shake your hand. Mark and I had a fine time on Erocktica even though we weren't as swift as you guys were. Was it you folks who did the brushing on the way out? If so, thanks a bunch! To elaborate in the road repair operation, the road closure only adds 20 min or so to the approach. The trail takes about 20 min. This is one of the most easy and pleasant approaches I've done. The forest is quite enjoyable.

Dru, you are not old enough to remember that song. "We had joy, we had fun, we had seasons in the sun...", oh no!

When I look back on all the crap I learned in High School, It's a wonder I learned anything at all...

Sounds like the best approach is to go up there and climb whatever looks good to you. Aye?

Mark led Istanbul on our visit last week. I couldn't think of the name then and you just reminded me. I just wanted to say that Istanbul looks a lot dirtier than it really is. The actual crack and foot placements are clean. Not to say that it wouldn't benefit from some scrubbing, but it is definitely clean enough to climb. [istanbul is the crack to the left of Battered Sandwich]

Mark and I went down to Private Idaho yesterday afternoon with the attention of putting an anchor on Wet Dream. I rapelled down from the trees above, and lo and behold someone had already done the deed! Not having anything better to do, I gave the route a good scrubbing with a wire brush, and got some more dirt out of the crack. While I was doing this, along comes Argus below. Turns out the anchor was his handiwork. Meanwhile Mark removed the blackberries from the bottom of the crack. We then top roped the route and I found a loose piece of flake inside the pod near the top. This flake was right where you'd perhaps want to put some gear or maybe a jam, so I trundled it. There was a nice, solid hand crack behind it. I'm guessing the reason for the persistence of the loose rock is most people layback and run out this section anyway. We both thought that this route was a really fine one and very much in the style of the other route at Private Idaho, that is, hand to fist cracks. So go get on her! The route is both as clean and dry as you'll ever see it. Gear to 4", 25 meters, approximately. Bring the mosquito repellent. They are swarming thick right now.

I understand that Route #5, Erocktica, has a new 6th pitch. What rating does it go at and does it go to the top of the wall. If it goes to the top of the wall, would the game trail be recommended over rappelling the route? Descent would be to climbers left?

Nice post, Rad. We all want to be challenged, but was also want to believe we have a chance to succeed.

Great pictures! Thanks!

Shhhh....don't tell anyone, but most of the rock is quite clean.

It would be like throwing out the welcoming mat to displaced ascensionistas.

How does "about five or ten minutes" sound?

Trip: Castle Rock, Tumwater Canyon - Birdsnest Overhang, 5.8 Date: 6/20/2009 Trip Report: Crazy Mark and I checked out this rather obscure Beckey route on Lower Castle Rock today. We approached by climbing to the top of the Fault and traversing up and right on a grassy crack system. I wanted to head up towards Idiot's Delight, but it looked mossy and unappealing that way. Mark went to the right side of a big ledge and spotted a clean, white right-facing corner, which you can see in the photo in the guidebook, but which has no name. Mark led up this pitch which felt like 5.8 to a roof traverse and then a dihedral. We belayed at the bottom of this somewhat mossy feature. My pitch started with some face moves out of the dihedral up to some grassy ledges to the right of the overhang. Climbing up some blocks, I made a few mossy slab moves to another RFC system and followed this to Logger's Ledge, topping out below the start of Canary. This second pitch was familiar to Mark as Birdsnest Overhang. We are not sure what the first pitch we did was. We rather liked this climb. It protects well and features consistently 5.7-5.8 climbing. After lunch at Logger's Ledge we climbed Old Grey Mare, 5.8. I found it a lot less scary than I had anticipated. It really protects quite well. I found it to be quite enjoyable. I belayed right below Crack of Doom which Mark led. I did the final pitch to the summit which coincides with Canary. What I hadn't realized was that one can traverse over to Winder Solstice (5.6) from the top of Old Grey Mare, if not wanting to climb Crack of Doom. I think more people ought to consider OGM when Canary is busy. It's pretty nice. BTW, the bolt has been replaced. Gear Notes: Double cams from 1/2" to 4" and a few stoppers for Birdsnest. Small TCUs and Camalots to 2" plus medium stoppers for Old Grey Mare. Approach Notes: You can also approach by hiking up a gully from the road and traversing left to the start on a ledge system.

Could it have been buried under snow?

The smallest swage fitting that West Marine sells is 1/8". You want 3/32". You can get that at WW Grainger. You can order online or over the phone and they will get you the cable and fittings very quickly and for cheap. This stuff is used by model airplane hobbyists so it is quite common and available.

Do Master Cams have stops to prevent inversion, or are they like Aliens without stops?

Maybe they are all at Exit 38?

RuMR wasn't the only one scratching his head at that comment. Mass has nothing to do (or is it due) with it. Wired stoppers on the rack can work their way off of wired carabiners, but I've never seen it happen in a placement.

Well, it just so happens that Viagra is also supposed to aid performance at altitude, so the comparison is most appropriate (or was it deliberate?).

It is harder than 5.9 for the first two moves off the ground. I guess like at Joshua Tree, the start doesn't count against the rating.

Also, you should know that you have a choice of dosages. The long standing preferred dose has been 250 mg twice a day, but studies have shown that 125 mg twice a day is also effective. Why would you want to take less? -possibly fewer side-effects. The side effects include water loss as mentioned and also tingling in the finger tips and, curiously, you'll get a metallic taste in your mouth if you drink anything carbonated.

Microbe Awakens The thing I don't understand is how this can be when the world is only 4,000 years old.