catbirdseat

I don't recommend hot glue because it will likely leave marks on the rock. I remember my Dad forbade us from wearing our New Balance on the boat if they had hot glue repairs, which was pretty common in those days when we were on the cross country team.

I fell once on a screw and it held. It was a 40 foot fall after rope stretch. I think I was about 15 feet above the screw when I fell. Weekend_Climberz caught me and injured his chin when he was pulled into the ice. I was uninjured. I was very, very lucky, however. WC went up to remove the screw. He said the ice was a little damaged around it but the screw itself was undamaged. I remember having placed the screw into very good ice, perpendicular to the surface.

I don't think that the original question was whether you should top rope though the rappel ring, but whether it was safe to clip a draw to one. You should never top rope through a rap ring, ever. The diameter of the ring is such that the rope cuts through the ring quite rapidly. I've see what this looks like. It's scary. When you rappel on a rap ring there is no movement of the rope until you pull it, and at that time, it doesn't have your body weight on it.

Prime Rib of Goat on Goat Wall in Mazama is a good girlfriend route.

Endless Bliss not that good? It's the best route at Exit 38! Okay not that great compared to other places, but still by far the best at Exit 38.

I was belaying my partner up after leading the first pitch of White Maiden's Walkway when I happened to see two other climbers who were either on Whodunit, or something to the left of that route. One of them had just led the first pitch and had set up a belay. The other was about 30 feet off the ground with a huge bight of rope hanging below him. Near as I could tell he had grown impatient with the leader, and instead of waiting for him to pull up all the rope and be put on belay, he started climbing. When the bight of rope he was trailing caught on a rock horn, he was effectively fatboyed. He couldn't go up and he couldn't bring himself to downclimb. There he was stuck in a precarious position. After some minutes they seemed to have figured out a solution to the problem. Apparently, at least some of the rope had been pulled up, because I could see the follower being lowered. He must have tied a figure eight loop in the anchored strand and clipped in. Had there been no coils of rope at the belay, it would have been a bit stickier. A Prussik knot would have been the solution, but I doubt this particular climber would have had a hero loop or known how to tie a Kleimheist with a Spectra runner. This story could have turned out badly, but fortunately did not.

Maybe the trail could be improved to the culvert such that bicycles would be a good approach option. I don't remember it being very steep, but do remember a lot of small trees that would need to be cleared back to make bikes more practical.

Take it from the voice of experience!

Since the tree is protected from rope damage by slings, the issue becomes one of aesthetics. Decide whether you'd rather look at multicolored nylon slings around a tree or somewhat more innocuous looking chain below it. To a slight degree, slings too can inflict some damage to a tree, especially if they increase the rate at which soil is removed from the roots. This is probably not true in this case. If you had asked me before putting in the anchor I'd be indifferent. Now that it's there, and assuming the slings are cleaned up, I'd say leave it be.

I agree. It's a great winter climb. I've done it twice in winter and had fun both times.

I've chatted with Alex at Pub Club. He's a talker. I knows just the right things to say. Way to go Alex. Too bad you didn't win.

Great fun! Way to go ladies!

Trigger point release therapy was in part developed by Hans Kraus, a climber.

It's a really good thing that we humans are such an adaptable species. We seem to thrive on high protein/low carb diets as well as high carb/low protein diets. We seem to tolerate high reps as well as low reps. I am sure we will survive every fad that comes along.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=665169 This very nearly ended up like an accident about five years ago on Tahquitz. As in that earlier incident, the anchor failed but here both survived.

The chute on a 70 footer must cost something like $20,000 each. Am I right? So you lost how many spinnaker? I'd imagine that the mast probably could be patched up, but my guess is they'll replace the whole thing. My guess is the mast is about $100,000?

Yeah, there is always Uncle Matt. That great friend to newbies. There should be more guys like him!

Finally, what we've all been waiting for!

Good to see you old boys are still getting out together. Nice report. Let me know if you ever decide to hit California.

Glad to hear that you took a partner. That's good. Amazing that anyone can keep up with you after reading some of your other speed record accounts.

Michael, I am sorry to hear that about Germany. I am happy to say that trad is alive and well at Tahquitz Rock. My new partner today got all his instruction from friends and partners and his skills were very good. I would have to say that I really haven't yet climbed with anyone from cc.com who I thought was unsafe.

GMKnight and I were gearing up to climb El Whampo, 5.7, when we heard a shout down in the woods from the direction of the approach route. Then we heard a whistle. We asked, "are you okay?". Answer "No". "Are you injured?" Answer "No". "Can you move?" Answer "No". While I called 911, Geoff and Chris, another climber rope soloing near us, ran down the hill to assist. At first I got a report that it was a heart attack. The next thing I heard they were walking the victim towards the parking lot. It turns out the he'd had a grand mal seizure. He's had one many, many years before. This one hit him out of the blue. It really scared his female climbing partner. I'd heard he had been climbing at Tahquitz for 40 years. After we saw that the victim was safely in the hands of the paramedics, we headed back up to the rock and started our climb at the crack of noon. It went smoothly. El Whampo is pretty fun. The second pitch features this long hand and finger crack that is just stellar. Too bad the rest of the climb is so so. If it had two pitches of cracks like that one, it would be a classic.

With Apostrophree how would we then know who the idiots are at a glance?

A gold star to the first person to post a gross Layton photo.

Bring lots of sweet treats. Kids do great on backpacking trips. They are naturals.