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catbirdseat

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Everything posted by catbirdseat

  1. Actually, he does. Just without the biner. Unless you were willing to leave a biner or rap ring, you'd want to use the biner trick. Considering how hard those skinny tag lines are on the hands, it would be nice to have the rope through a ring for ease of pulling.
  2. Colin doesn't explain how taglines are used. Under this system you pass the heavy single rope through the anchor and join it to the tag line. You tie a figure eight loop on the single rope between the anchor and tag line. Clip the loop to the single rope on the opposite side of the anchor using a locking carabiner. The carabiner is used to protect against the knot pulling through the anchor sling. You rappel the single rope strand. One might even put the tag line in a bag or a pocket so that it pays out as one rappels, since the wind can catch such small diameter line if thrown. When it is time to pull the ropes, you pull on the skinny tag line. The carabiner should slide down the rope as you pull. Naturally, you want the first person down to give a pull on the tag line to confirm that the ropes are going to move. That way the second can solve any problems before descending. If you were using stout rappel rings or quick links and were satisfied that the knot joining the ropes could not possibly pull through the ring, you could dispense with the carabiner.
  3. It can be difficult to find particular shots in the gallery unless the poster has seen fit to include good keywords. There is one humorous one that keeps coming up with two guys bouldering on a very small boulder. One guy is cheering the other on with both hands pointing and a ridiculous look on his face. It's been used over and over in posts.
  4. Click me
  5. I sincerely doubt this. It may have the same cholesterol lowering effect, but cannot contain a synthetic compound such as Atorvastatin. "Red yeast rice when produced using the 'Went' strain of Monascus purpureus contains significant quantites of the HMG-CoA reductase inhibitor lovastatin which is also known as mevinolin, a naturally-occurring statin", according to Wikipedia.
  6. This proves that, with the right euphemism, one can go far in this world.
  7. Keep in mind, Rmncwrtr, that around here "good quality" =women climbing in sports bras. Amen! You nailed it my friend.
  8. I'm sure that nice lady who is so fond of consonants will offer you a ride.
  9. So what routes shall we siege this year? What was the route du jour last year? Bale-Kramar?
  10. A strange effect of centripetal force. What's that between her breasts? Answer, her navel.
  11. We need an avatar with raised eyebrows. For the meantime, this one will have to do. 8D
  12. A friend of mine tried Body Glide on his feet. It's the stuff that long distance runners use to reduce chafe. Well he said it worked wonders on his heels. The active ingredient, allantoin. Allantoin is the compound that most birds and reptiles use to get ride of excess nitrogen from metabolism.
  13. Snow patches on the approach gully to the notch, below the summit (with a trickle), and below the false summit, and that's about it. No water at all on the ridge unless you bypass the Great Gendarme. You might be able to find a trickle below the slabs above Cascadian Couloir.
  14. By the way, I'm for early October.
  15. Basic students are taught how to make "basic anchors", which means how to sling a tree, a block, or a tunnel. Since they don't learn how to place chocks and camming devices, they aren't trained to build complex gear anchors.
  16. Elmer is a "composite character". He's a collection of all the worst attributes that a climbing partner can have, all rolled into one. Climb long enough and we'll all see bits and pieces of Elmer, but hopefully not all in the same partner.
  17. Yes, kids can make quite a clamor as they clamber. Good job getting this off the ground, Oly!
  18. I second what what said about the second 1/2-3/4 inch piece. I had one Green Alien and wished I'd had a second one, or perhaps a Blue TCU. Did you guys descend he route? Did you know that there is a great rap route that you can reach from the shiny new Fixe anchor at the low point of the Blueberry Terrace? It is much cleaner than going from the big tree which is now dying. Only bad thing about the rap route is the last rappel from the sloping terrace down the low angle slabs. The anchor is a tree and there are bushes that grab at the rope, making retrieval a chore. A bolted rap anchor below the tree would be awfully nice. Naturally, I'd be up for some projects up there. It would be three weekends before I was available unless you have a weekday free.
  19. catbirdseat

    hahahaha

    Speaking of Fall Ropeup. Is this on the schedule? Is it being organized?
  20. Seen in the gym last night: some guy top roping a 5.9 (with orange tape) gets to the ledge, yells take, reaches into his chalk bag and pulls out a chalk ball. He proceeds to "powder" a two foot by six inch wide section of ledge with chalk. I could see clouds of chalk filling the air. He makes the next move and takes. Now he proceeds to powder the next two bolted on holds. Now, I ask you. Is this considered "fair means"? It looks to me like the climber is trying to bring the climb down to his level, rather than trying to rise to the level of the climb. Granted, it was hot in there, but that's no excuse. He could always come back in the cool of the morning for his send. Next thing you know they'll be bolting on holds...no wait, nevermind.
  21. Where are these places?
  22. You are talking about Schurman Rock at Camp Long in West Seattle? I think you can go anytime you like during normal hours. There are anchors at the top. You can just hike up there to set your top ropes. You can also just do some bouldering too.
  23. The Coleman has retreated every year I have visited it over the past seven years.
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