catbirdseat

A set of nuts from #3 to #11 doubled from #8-#10 4-6 hexes from #4 to #9 1 set of 6 SLCDs from 0.5" to 3" 3 Tricams #s 0.5, 1 and 2. 8 shoulder length slings. 20 biners.

What on earth is that? It looks very interesting. Pro for chopped routes where there are still holes?

I was referring to the last pitch, which would be the fourth pitch if you count the scramble third pitch, which I don't.

It must be.

All of the above, plus stuck ropes, bushwacking, some loose rock, etc. Am I leaving anything out?

Necro, this is all I have to say to you:

I was beaned square on the top of my head by a good sized pebble at Vantage the other day. It would have hurt like hell without the helmet.

I remember only two bolts for the first hundred feet or so. It's 5.9, but as pope says, really not a climb for a 5.9 climber. I know I would't want to fall on it.

I only have one gear loop on each side of my harness, so I put about three draws or tripled shoulder length slings on each side. All the gear goes on a Metolius gear sling and the remaining slings go over my shoulder with one biner each.

Oh, I thought that was reference to Catturdeat, a different person. What the fuck do you know? Notice that you're on the list.

I'll give it a go.

That rock is unlike anything I've seen elsewhere (not that I have been to many places). It's blocky and the fracture lines are totally random. Some lines protect well and others are nightmarish. My guide book should have had the "death heads" of Viktor Kramar for some of the routes.

The list is getting longer and longer. It's losing its impact. I suggest limiting it to ten.

A climber from Tacoma I met at Vantage pointed out a decided advantage of the GriGri. She said, "if a rock falls, an unconsious belayer will not be able to catch any fall (by the leader)". In other words, the GriGri will stop a fall every time.

Tomcat was banned long long ago. Take him off, he's history.

Saw a few buttonheads offroute at Exfoliation Dome. I hear you will climb on them at Static Point.

For the purpose of stopping the "zipper effect", a bolt is omnidirectional.

I probably wouldn't recommend the place on a weekend, but it is nice and quiet on weekdays. We didn't see any beer bottles soaring over our heads.

Bill and I were there today, as a matter of fact. I was topping out on a route when grabbed a hold. I felt something gritty and loose. I looked down and saw this yellowish material filling several pockets in the rock. It looked like ash. On closer inspection, one could see very small particles of what looked like bone. I have a sneaking suspicion that I was climbing through human remains, or "cremains". I think someone decided it would be nice to toss their loved one's ashes over the cliff. The only problem is they didn't dispurse. They went plop. Anyway, it made me think I should be careful and not have an accident lest I end up like a little pile of ash on the rock.

Dirty blue guy

Don't get out much do ya??? What you talkin' 'bout, Willis? I been climbing all day today at Mt. Erie.

Several people commented that running might cause the gear to zipper. Are you using an omnidirectional placement for your first piece? If not, then you should be. BTW, all bolts are omnis. Some, if not most, cam placements can be omnis. Chocks can be omnis if set in opposition.

Sounds like Deja Vu (see previous SW Rib thread). When are people going to learn to keep their dogs on leash?

What if you are using a GriGri?

He's totally embarrassed about forgetting the rope. He doesn't want his colleagues to know he screwed up.