catbirdseat

Sorry, we forgot to get the camera from one of the climbers who turned back. We might be able to get some photos from the party on Seven Fingered Jack, since John works with some of them.

The second link makes clear that the party of four was camped where the avalanche occurred. Perhaps poor visibity might have prevented them from seeing the ice cliff above them.

Trip: Mount Maude - North Face Date: 9/9/2007 Trip Report: I had done this route once before two years ago . The ice was really just hard snow then and I was curious what it would be like later in the year. I could find no trip reports later than August, so I decided to just go and see what I would find. We hiked into LeRoy Basin on Saturday afternoon and bivied among the larch trees. Met a party who had scrambled Seven Finger Jack that day. They had digital pictures of the NF of Maude that suggested gaps in the ice on the route. Got up at 5:30 am and were under way by 6 am under headlamps. We reached the col at about 7:30 am. Three of our party turned back to camp, not liking the looks of the traverse, coupled with what they'd seen in the photos. The traverse was snow free and we didn't rope up for it this time. As usual, lots of loose rock. The trickiest part was the initial descent from the col. On route at 9:30 am we found the first block similar to the previous trip. On the second block we started to encounter sections of bare rock. We'd been concerned about blank slab, but that wasn't the case. The gaps were pretty easily climbed. There is some rock pro available here and there (small tricams and knifeblades). One of the nice things about these rock islands is that they give you a nice comfy place to take a break. The route was done in 5 blocks with at least some simulclimbing on each block. We noted that there was much less sun cupping, which meant more strenuous footwork. I guess the lower angle of the sun accounts for that. This was Larry's first alpine ice climb and he did great. Since I was afraid my crampon would fall off, he took the final crux pitch, featuring about 15 feet of 60 degree water ice. Following it, my right crampon came loose and I had to do those last 15 feet with one foot. That's really hard! Jennifer, ascending via the scramble route, was waiting for us at the top of the ice and accompanied us on the descent. Gear Notes: Used: Red tricam (2x), knifeblades (3x), #7 nut, ice screws (5 used numerous times), pickets (3 used a lot) Did not use: slider nuts (3), small cams (3) Approach Notes: 1.5-2 hours from col. Be prepared for very exposed and loose third class.

The first time I did that climb was my first alpine climb and I followed all of it. The crux move on the second pitch really got my attention. The second time I did the climb I was leading and I couldn't find the crux move around the bulge. I must have just stepped past it.

Well, guys, it turns out that you CAN do the NF of Maude in September. There were a few gaps in the ice, but the exposed rock was easily climbed. In fact the rock islands made for comfortable belay ledges.

Damn, and I have to settle for ice cream with brandied cherries. Oh, by the way, what's the deal with the baseball bat?

Why do you hate cc.com?

"I loves to eat them miceys, Them miceys is what I loves to eat. I love to bite they little heads off, And nibble on they tiny feet."

8D

Pretty soon Bush will refer to him as He Who Shall Not Be Named.

I set them down on the ground prior to leading Battered Sandwich. It was getting dark as we returned to our packs and I didn't see them and left without them. They are on an oval carbiner. Buy you a beer if you return them.

They'll "climb" out of their sleeping bags and make a beeline for the Bloody Marys.

What do you mean, Scott. You're telling us you aren't going to tell any lies at Ropeup? We're not THAT gullible. Yes, you'll be telling the newbies all about that FF 3 whipper you took. They'll be eating that up. Just you wait.

I just want to allay the fears of some of the people considering their first foray to a Fall Ropeup. It can't be denied that some people go overboard with the drinking and end up too hungover to climb, but there are a lot of safe and sober climbers there to take out the newbies. Icicle Canyon, for those who haven't been there, has several very nice roadside top rope areas with moderate routes. There are also several nice easy multipitch routes for those people who'd like to try that sort of thing for the first time. Having said all that, I'm looking forward to some beer.

We all know Chuck has it in for you, Mos.

I've followed the crux pitches on Outer Space. I think I can lead them now, and would like to.

There WAS a fellow on this site, not seen for some time, who did profess a firm belief in creationism. What was his name?

Rob McDan and I paid a visit to Private Idaho this afternoon. Rob led Senior Citizens ably and then I led Battered Sandwich. I see where it gets it's name. I felt a bit battered after I was done. We moved on to Magic Fern. It's a bit dirty on the first pitch, but that didn't seem to make it harder. I thought that the start was really hard! I had to place a nut and step in a sling to get off the ground. The first pitch went well, but I had problems with the second. I'm just not good at thin hands. Rob seemed to like that part. We were also thinking of Istanbul, but ran out of time. How is that one? How about Wet Dream? Any good?

We could schedule a "geological debate" in the ye olde chat room between Dru and Mark. It would rival the Lincoln-Douglas debate of old. I'd want to be there to watch the mudslinging.

They don't show the part where they flay him alive with sea shells and dunk him in salt water.

That's amazing all right.

I think that when you have kids with you, it's good to have a third adult along, if possible to help supervise the children, so that the belayer can focus entirely on her task. I realize this isn't always possible. I can easily see how this sort of accident can happen. Also, a GriGri might be a good investment for this sort of family climbing. I might add that the belay technique taught in most gyms, the "slip-slide" method, is not the best for situations where you either can be distracted, or can't see the leader. There is a modified belay method in which the guide hand is taken off the standing part and moved down to the tail to hold the rope when the brake hand is moved in. The guide hand moves back and forth between tail and standing part and the brake hand always stays in a down position. In this way the tail of the rope is always ready to stop a fall. I realize that you were leading, but there are times when rope needs to come in, such as when a high clip is made. Remind your girlfriend to keep her brake hand down at her side as much as possible.

Wrong thread. That line belongs in the cc.com cliches thread.

Time to take it to Chat. Chat is so hot right now.