catbirdseat

I'm there, providing the weather forecast improves. I expect it will.

Lightweight and tough are often opposing requirements. I have a down jacket that I got at a thrift store for $5. It has a canvas shell, so it can take a lot of abuse. It's not the lightest jacket around, but it's great for the desert.

Start reading. Then if you haven't found the answer in those 53 pages, there are twenty more pages to look at.

There are stock titles that are assigned based on post count. Then there are those that are manually set by the moderators.

It has all the makings of a good hoax, the most important of which is believability.

Consider it a special honor.

PS: Don't be a jerk. We didn't give them anything, they stole it. I know you probably think you're too smart to make any of these mistakes but you're probably not. Don't mistake statistics for your own invulnerability. I am sorry. I felt like a jerk by phrasing the way I did. When one gets the pin number from the bank, one should memorize the number and then burn the paper. Do not write or record the number anywhere for any reason. If you forget the number, you just get a new one. Your girlfriend obviously left a record somewhere.

How did they get at the money without the PIN? Or did you give them that too?

Thanks for your input.

What is the latest this route can be done? I've seen TRs into early August. I've done this route in late July. The snow on the traverse helped a bit, though I'm sure it could be done without. I suppose the limiting factor would be the snow melting out of the bottom of the couloir presenting one with wet rock to get on the ice.

Lowering Children? Just cut 'em off at the knees! Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Seriously, the trick is to practice lowering while they are only a short distance off the ground, say ten feet. If that works, try 20 feet. If they can do that they can lower from the top. They have to get the mechanics of it while they are still free from fear.

Well Ketch, a two man team on the DC has lots of potential assistance from other rope teams, depending on day of week and time of ascent.

Very interesting. Is this surprising at all? If you are at one extreme, there is only one way you can move and that is away from the extreme and towards your opponent's viewpoint. If you are in the middle, you can go in either direction. You have more degrees of freedom and hence there is not the same need for defensiveness.

Tvash isn't exaggerating. The Pasayten Wilderness can afford you some great wilderness experiences.

The thing I remember about Mush Maker is that there are certain places where pro just drops in like a dream and others where it's fussy. When you get a good placement you can rely on it and focus just on the climbing. About 10 feet above the top I remember starting to fuss with a placement and then thinking, "these jams are bomber, why are you wasting your energy. Just go for it!" So I did, and it was fine. So what if I fell? It would have been a big one, but I was way off the ground, with many pieces below me.

Are those $300 Makita 18V Lithium Ion drills sold at Home Depot able to drill holes in rock? Or do you have to pay $600 to get a serviceable unit from Hilti?

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How about Chumstick Snag or Trigger Finger?

Is there not a Beckey Chimney on SEWS? How about Stoner Ledge? Jello Tower Damnation Crack (both a route and a feature) ... and stop mentioning peaks. He asked for Feature Names. A peak is not a feature.

Like I said, justification based on speculation. Nothing to do with reality or statistics or fact. Just opinions. "Let's put a bolt here! What if...!" Entirely based on fantasy. I'll chime in here to agree with EricB that you are a bona fide tool, lizard_brain. You have no ability to view situations from the perspective of others. You only think of yourself. I'll add that when guiding, if the pitch is vertical, the guide can adequately protect the client whether or not he has placed any protection or not. If the client falls, the rope is above. On a traverse the situation is quite different. If there is natural protection, he can place enough gear to keep the client safe from pendulum fall. Here is a situation where there is a traverse with no natural protection at all. The guide can't protect his clients without that bolt. I was interested to hear Scott's method of belaying, which is different from mine. Typically, there is only one person that wants protection on that section, an assuming a party of three or more, what I'll do is lead across, clipping the bolt and then have the less experienced person tie into the middle of the rope and clip through. After that he/she is belayed from the other end. I like your way better, because it works even if you have a party of two.

I haven't noticed any shooting at Exit 38 in several years. I do remember it. That's where Freeway Gun Show got its name.

What rock have you been hiding under? It's standard practice up there.

The well-respected climber obviously didn't think it was a silly place, now, did he? I don't either. The idea that one could put a fixed line there to protect that traverse is pretty silly if you ask me. All fixed lines need appropriate anchors. If you fixed a line, the ends would be anchored lower than the middle.

. I think you're sugar coating that pill! . What would RumR say?!? RuMR would want to know what knot to tie. I showed him how to tie his shoe laces several times already. I keep reminding him to tie together the two laces on the SAME shoe.