catbirdseat

Now THAT is what I call fine art.

Can you make out the "face"?

Do you always soak with your clothes on?

Climb: Darrington- Three O'Clock Rock-Big Tree 1 and The Kone Date of Climb: 3/12/2005 Trip Report: TrogdorTheBurninator and I headed out of town at 5:30 am in my beater truck. We found road 2060 closed with a concrete barrier. A determined off-roader could go around it, but we came equipped with mountain bikes, so we saddled up here about 5 miles from the trailhead. Fortunately, at this point, most of the steep grades are behind you. Even with my atrophied cycling legs it only took us 40 minutes. We did not see ANY evidence that work was being done on the road (Grrr!). The trail is in rough condition as usual but there is almost no downed timber. We arrived at the crag at about 9 am and picked The Big Tree Route since it was the first one we saw. There was a small patch of snow at the base but that was all. This being the most easterly route it is a good choice in cool weather to do first thing in the morning while the sun is on it. In the summer it would be a good choice in the afternoon to escape the worst of the heat. We found that Big Tree had the most opportunity for natural pro of the routes we saw, especially on the first pitch. By the time we reached the third pitch a breeze blew up from the west and made it chilly. We finished up on a 5.8 line of shiny new bolts, ending at an anchor below a big tree. We couldn't find this line on the topo. It run just to the left of an unprotectable groove. It is possible that we inadvertantly finished on the third pitch of Cornucopia. We might have continued upward for another pitch but opted to rap down to put more clothes on. Using our 60 m half ropes we were able to get down in to raps by dropping off the right side of the Great Arch and using the anchors from Til Broad Daylight on the way. After some lunch we decided on The Kone. This route features mostly bolt protected climbing with a couple of natural placements per pitch. It has lots of delightful knobs for your feet except for a few places which are where the 5.9 sections are. We linked the second and third pitches and should have linked the fourth and fifth, but we had some issues with twisty ropes. We got down in three double rope raps via Tidbids. Those are some steep slab route (5.10b)!. There's lots of opportunity for the rope to catch on chicken head, flakes and trees, but we didn't have too much trouble getting down. Trodorf had to be home for a party so we beat it down the trail, zipped down the road on our bikes and got him home in time by 6:30 pm. I used my new B-52 in the autolock mode for the first time to belay directly from the anchor and I really liked it. It makes rope management much easier when you can free up your hands. I've used an ATC for several years and I think the B-52 is a better device. The only knock I have against it is that there is not quite enough friction on smaller ropes (8.6 mm). This wasn't a problem on the slabs, but it could be on steep raps. Gear Notes: The topo said light rack and it means light rack. A set of nuts and a few cams. I remember using green, orange and red Aliens and #5, #8 and #10 stoppers. 50 m ropes are fine. Doubles are a good idea, but singles are fine too. Approach Notes: Bring Mountain Bikes.

Looks like we're going after all on Mountain bikes. Three O'Clock Rock.

By all accounts this guide was a superb climber, but I wonder whether there could be something said for the MASS of the guide with regard to being able to pull off a team arrest. If you clients outweigh you, it could be a problem.

According to Darrington RS, the road is still blocked. Rats. Anyone for Leavenworth or Vantage?

Anyone interested in climbing at Darrington tomorrow? Don't care where: GBG, 3OR, or BH. Haven't been to 3 O'clock Rock, so that would be kind of cool. PM me, if interested.

Leavenworth sounds good, got a partner yet?

If the road is open, go for it. I climbed Blueberry Hill at this time last year and it was mostly dry. I should be at keast as dry now.

I have an identical rope purchaded in 1998. I've taken some big falls on it and I continue to use it, but I plan to retire it soon.

Most version of the Three Rules go like this: 1) The client is trying to kill you. 2) The client is trying to kill himself. 3) The client is trying to kill the other clients. This accident sounds similar to the one that took place on Mt. Hood in which an inexperienced climber in the uphill position fell and pulled the other two climbers with him. I wonder which position the guide was in in this instance? I know almost nothing about guiding, but I would assume the guide would want to always be in the uphill position, whether ascending or descending.

It brings to mind the Three Rules of Mountain Guiding.

I think we have two species here. I've seen specimens of each, one large and one tiny.

Last night in the gym I spoke to a guy who pretty much only climbs in the gym. He's been to GNS and Vantage a few times. He says Vantage gives him the willies because he was there at Sunshine right after Goran died. He doesn't like the occasional loose hold. I told him that on some alpine climbs, every step hold is loose. If he only knew all the other people who died outside in all the other places, doubtless he wouldn't climb anywhere but the gym ever again.

What is unique? Show me another place where low elevation valley bottom forests have been set aside in Western Washington. The only think close would be parts of the Boulder River Wilderness. It has a different mix of tree species, however. I was told that the reason that valley was never logged was that it had a lot of less valuable timber such as silver firs and smaller size trees.

Way to go.

You should have descended via the NE Buttress. I realize that if you have never done that route it might be scary going that way, but it is a much easier way to get down. One single rope rap from the tree you mentioned, then downclimb to some trees, then two single rope raps to get you down to the ridge. From there you can downclimb to the basin.

It's not plagarism if you cite your sources. I'd rather have an accurate and detailed book citing other's work than an inaccurate one I researched first hand. The idea of the book is not to replace local guide books. It is designed as a survey of all the places in the state to give you a taste of what's there. Then if you like what you see you should go buy the local guide. As such, it should place particular emphasis on getting you to the place with as little trouble as possible. I've been told that the directions to Static Point were not good in the first addition. I can't speak first hand, but if this is true, it should be corrected. Dave Schuldt, MattP and others who frequent that area could help.

Take your crampons. Guaranteed there will be icy places, somewhere.

Yep, Manila was the hot stuff when it came out. Then nylon Goldline came along and THAT was the hot stuff.

10 pm PST is the hottest time for chat.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/chat.php

When Manila came out, it was considered an improvement. In those days, the leader could not fall. The rope could protect a second, but not really the leader. It would break on anything but a miniscule fall. I imagine that people would go aid much sooner. Aid obviously had to be absolutely bomber. Those were the days when men were men.

Where'd you go Muffy?