catbirdseat

Last night in the gym I spoke to a guy who pretty much only climbs in the gym. He's been to GNS and Vantage a few times. He says Vantage gives him the willies because he was there at Sunshine right after Goran died. He doesn't like the occasional loose hold. I told him that on some alpine climbs, every step hold is loose. If he only knew all the other people who died outside in all the other places, doubtless he wouldn't climb anywhere but the gym ever again.

What is unique? Show me another place where low elevation valley bottom forests have been set aside in Western Washington. The only think close would be parts of the Boulder River Wilderness. It has a different mix of tree species, however. I was told that the reason that valley was never logged was that it had a lot of less valuable timber such as silver firs and smaller size trees.

Way to go.

You should have descended via the NE Buttress. I realize that if you have never done that route it might be scary going that way, but it is a much easier way to get down. One single rope rap from the tree you mentioned, then downclimb to some trees, then two single rope raps to get you down to the ridge. From there you can downclimb to the basin.

It's not plagarism if you cite your sources. I'd rather have an accurate and detailed book citing other's work than an inaccurate one I researched first hand. The idea of the book is not to replace local guide books. It is designed as a survey of all the places in the state to give you a taste of what's there. Then if you like what you see you should go buy the local guide. As such, it should place particular emphasis on getting you to the place with as little trouble as possible. I've been told that the directions to Static Point were not good in the first addition. I can't speak first hand, but if this is true, it should be corrected. Dave Schuldt, MattP and others who frequent that area could help.

Take your crampons. Guaranteed there will be icy places, somewhere.

Yep, Manila was the hot stuff when it came out. Then nylon Goldline came along and THAT was the hot stuff.

10 pm PST is the hottest time for chat.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/chat.php

When Manila came out, it was considered an improvement. In those days, the leader could not fall. The rope could protect a second, but not really the leader. It would break on anything but a miniscule fall. I imagine that people would go aid much sooner. Aid obviously had to be absolutely bomber. Those were the days when men were men.

Where'd you go Muffy?

Hell no, Dru. Haven't you ever heard of a quadrupod? or is it quadruped?

I thought it might be Dave Schuldt's hair, but more likely it was Wayne's dog.

Joshua Tree has a bunch of chimneys. Many of them aren't actually parallel sided though. Some are like acute angled dihedrals etc. Intersection Rock has Bat Crack, Mike's Books, and The Flake, all of which have chimney sections.

How about this punk?

A very entertaining TR, but enquiring minds want to know whether you actually climbed anything, and if so what it was. Did you clip bolts or top rope?

Capitol Forest volunteers discovered last week that a bill was presented to the Legislature to eliminate DNR law Enforcement presence on forest trust lands throughout the state. This bill was submitted by Senators Doumit and Jacobsen. As you know, Fish and Wildlife officers are mandated to enforce game and fish violations. They are known to be very understaffed with their current obligations. They will unlikely staff additional officers specifically for protection of forest resources, campground vandalism, extended homeless camping, drug labs, ATV violations, stray target practice, abandoned stolen vehicles, garbage and other problems that ran rampant in the forests when DNR officers were not present. This bill makes no sense at all. DNR officers are already dedicated to the protection of the state forest resources. Fish & Wildlife have other enforcement focuses than to protect forest lands. This will be a lose, lose for all concerned if this legislation is passed. Our homeless problem will return. Vandalism and theft of forest products will increase without the presence of dedicated DNR law enforcement staff. The system has worked well in recent years. It seems strange the legislature wants to fix something that is not broken. Contact your legislators and let them know how you feel about this change in trust forest protection. SENATE BILL 5818 _____________________________________________ State of Washington 59th Legislature 2005 Regular Session

When downclimbing, gravity is aid.

I saw that same photo in a Florida newspaper the other day. I guess they needed a climbing photo and that one was just handy. It was taken at Ouray, supposedly.

For this reason and others I prefer the cordellette/webolette. Sure you can build an achor with slings, but it will take more time and fiddling. Cordellettes are fast. If you belay with a redirect off the anchor, and your second get's bonked with a rock, you can quickly rappel down to him and do an assisted rappel from there. If you build the anchor with the rope, good luck.

I just got back from Orlando. I had to order off the Senior menu to get something reasonably sized (and priced). It's no wonder everyone is getting fat. They are all eating at restaurants. People who eat at restaurants tend to eat everything they are served to get their "money's worth". But it is way too much food.

Fairweather, time to toast your buddy, Karl. Now he's Deputy Chief of Staff.

If the French had coordinated with the Americans they would have been told, "be sure to slow down for the checkpoint". But nooooo... It's a damn shame, but what are you going to do if you are the one manning the checkpoint? You got your orders and you got seconds to decide what to do.

We was?

It could very well be an early and harsh tick season. Ick.