catbirdseat

You make a damn good point there, Josh.

Oly, padding your post count is highly unethical.

Django Reinhardt, Al DeMeola, Martin Tylor,

I see he's done Memorial Crack

What do you mean you didn't win? Sure you won. If the climbing gyms use them, it must be safe. Seriously, though, they have what, 2-3% elongation versus 8-9% for a dynamic, for argument's sake. The fall factor is never worse than 1 on top rope. A one foot fall with 100 ft of rope out is FF 0.01. This is equivalent to a FF 0.03 or three foot fall on a dynamic rope. Sure it's safe.

I'll just have to go back and climb Chitlins dry to find out, won't I?

That's right. That's the original meaning. Skipping stones.

Without a paper trail, no one can be sure whether fraud was committed or not. This is the reason that scientists still keep paper notebooks in the age of computers. Part of my daily routine is pasting and initialing printouts into my notebook and then getting the pages countersigned. If something is really important, like proving a drug is safe and effective, or perhaps an election, then there should be a paper trail. You can still have electronic vote counting, but you must be able to go back to the hard copy if there is any question of propriety or lack there of.

Some of those jokes are a lot funnier if the listener is drunk.

Damnation is on my tick list if you want to go back. I have #4 and #4.5 Camalots (C3) plus a #4 Clog (=Friend).

But if it is perceived as making you look like a geriatric on a bike, how sexy is that? You can either be perceived as geriatric, or you can actually be geriatric. Which would you prefer?

If you buy east of the mountains your dollars will go to help support local wildlife areas. That's good.

Bad news for Dave_Schuldt and Ken4ord.

Rock falls in Squamish too, like anywhere else. The difference is that in Squamish, you're less likely to see it, or hear it coming, or expect it for that matter.

It's only an epic if you get back to town after that bars have all closed.

That is is a logical assumption considering neither of us were there.

The Bush Administration counts that as her greatest asset. She has almost no public record. Bush knows everything he needs to know about her, but Congress will only find out what Bush wants them to know.

Damn, I was thinking of going there, but the weather forecast was no better than Leavenworth. I should have known better.

Sorry, but I was very antisocial and went climbing when I would have been much better off drinking with the rest of 'em. Serves me right.

Last time I was there I met some Canadians from Vancouver who were there for the first time and they were raving about it. They were like, "wow, you can climb in the warm sun while it's cold and raining at Squamish- Fantastic!".

Round Jack Horner Up the apples and pears Jump into Uncle Ned Lay your loaf of bread On your Little Po Peep And go to sleep.

Climb: Condor Buttress-Condorphamine Addiction Date of Climb: 10/1/2005 Trip Report: My buddy Jim and I were going to climb Orbit, but the threatening weather dictated a route that would be easy to bail from. Condorphamine Addiction faces south as AlpineK pointed out, so it had at least a chance of being dry. It was dry at 11 am when we arrived after an "interesting" cross country scramble. Jim led the first two pitches together, skipping every other bolt. He was set to continue on the third pitch, but I told him he'd probably run out of rope (60 m rope). He brought me up in rain. By now the rock was soaking wet and my fingers got cold on the way up. The crux move of the second pitch was tricky for me wearing a pack and with wet rock. I led the third and fourth pitches strung together skipping a bolt here and there. They were quite a bit easier than the first two. Jim headed off on the fifth pitch and rain turned to sleet. Jim stalled out on a cruxy section while I froze my ass off. We elected to bail at this point. I lowered him off a quicklink and we rapped down. Seems like a 70 m rope would enable one to rap between any two stations at a time. Back at the base it was much warmer as there was much less wind. The rain stopped as we approached Bathtub Dome, so we stopped to lead a couple of slab routes, the first of which was called Chitlins, 5.8. Of course it was wet but there was a bail biner on it and Jim saw that as a challenge. He got to the biner but could go no further in shoes that were too big and wouldn't edge on itty bitty flakes. I lowered him off and had a go at it. My greater height enabled me to just reach a thin flake and move my feet up. Just as I was clipping a bolt, the flake broke off in my left hand. Jim saw the sudden movement and assumed I was falling, but I wasn't. He starts yarding in on the rope. I yelled, "ease off". My feet must have been better than I thought, because I didn't fall and finished the clip and then the pitch. I suspect that, even dry, Chitlins is a sandbag for 5.8. It would appear that what may have been nice sharp flakes initially are now rather rounded ones after 16 years of traffic. While we were setting up for the 5.9 to the left, met Alistair and Pat as they were heading up to do the arete on the right side of the top tier of Bathtub Dome. It looked like they had fun on it. By 5 pm, Jim and I had had enough and went into Ducks and Drakes for fish sandwiches and natchos (gag- too much cheese!). Found out that Ducks and Drakes is Cockney rhyme for "DT's and Shakes". Gear Notes: Bunch of quickdraws for CA and a rack to 2.5" that we only used on the last 5.9 route. Approach Notes: The trail is highly recommended.

What is meant by "desperate eliminate"? I assume that you refer to applying a rule whereby you can't stem off the crack to the left? You'd have to go look at it. The crack to the left of the seam may be farther than it looks in the photo. Look at Lingerie. The same applies to it.

I just read in the New York Times that scientists have discovered that bats are the reservoir for the SARS virus in the wild. It turns out that the Chinese eat the bats and use the guano in medicine. The civet cats were not the primary source after all.

E-Rock, what you need to do is to tell your mother that you will be there to help her if she decides to leave. You have to decide how far you are willing to go to help her.