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catbirdseat

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Everything posted by catbirdseat

  1. We were in no way impolite. The other climbers were finished climbing the route. On the other hand, had we not been there they might well have offered it up as a top rope to other climbers. If Kevin really felt that way, why did he not do that after the route was chopped the first time?
  2. Photo of Air Guitar which also shows Pony Keg and part of Whipsaw on the right.
  3. I'd prefer the NE Buttress as a descent route to the East Gully (Standard Route), having done both.
  4. These two routes share the same anchor up top. The last five times I've been to Sunshine Wall and approached Pony Keg with intention of leading it there have been sportos on Ripsaw. Even if you build your own anchor up top, oldschool style you still have someone only four feet away from you and that can be unnerving. I couldn't take it anymore and went up there and said, "excuse me, I'm leading Pony Keg, I hope you don't mind". About the time I was ready to go, they had pulled their rope and were clearing out. Now I understand the reason why Whipsaw was chopped three times. When I first heard about it by reading it in Yoder's guidebook, I thought, how dare they, the cad's!. Now I think, yes, I can see how someone could get pissed off when they can't get on one of the best trad lines at the Coulee- one for which the FA predated Ripsaw. I'm not saying I'd do such a thing as chopping a route, but that I can see both sides of the issue now.
  5. tangentially spectra sails have better UV resistance than Nylon sails; slings are similar enough. I think that spectra isn't inherently UV resistant. Spectra sailcloth is treated with a special UV resistant finish. The only fiber I know of that has excellent UV resistance is acrilan (acrylic).
  6. So has anyone seen Mike Beck lately? Is he still around Seattle?
  7. You are a menace to society.
  8. Mmmm...burnt Hamburger Helper. Yum.
  9. No posts and no personal info for mazeGirl.
  10. catbirdseat

    Overheard

    ..."I just had a colonoscopy. Nope, no anaesthesia for me. I wanted to watch the show."
  11. catbirdseat

    WIL-MA!

    Yabba-Dabba-Doo!
  12. Hey ladies, Chuck's your dream man. Name another fellow who is half as easy to please.
  13. Sometimes the stiffness of the wire is a hindrance to placing cams in the major camming mode. Wire is an aid if you are just placing it like an ordinary chock.
  14. Right, you should know, Dave.
  15. Mr. Diamond was like, "goody goody, free money".
  16. That is one theory among many. It remains to be seen exactly how that works.
  17. Most of the carbonic acid off-gasses in your stomach as CO2 and you belch it up. So, I'd say as long as there isn't a ton of sugar, and talking rain qualifies, it should hydrate you just fine.
  18. They Couged it again against UCLA. Snatching defeat from the jaws of victory.
  19. catbirdseat

    Seussical

    My wife talked me into going to Seattle Childrens Theater to see Seussical. We were treating a couple of disadvantaged youngsters to the show. One of them is deaf. The theater had a pair of excellent ASL translators on stage who did a marvelous job. I enjoyed watching them myself. I couldn't believe how much I enjoyed this show. If you have kids and you want to take them to a live show where you will enjoy it too, this is it. Seattle Children's Theater
  20. I say back to Ballard. How about the Korthaus?
  21. An epic struggle...must resist...urge to eat a second donut...must fight it...noooooo!
  22. It's an interesting graph showing approval ratings versus time in relation to terror alert events. Similar to what I was postulating but not exactly what the Olberman article was referring to. You have first the news story such as on Karl Rove, then you have the dip in approval rating, then you have the terror alert, then finally the corresponding rise in approval rating. Reminds me of the boy who cried wolf.
  23. The Olberman article would have had much greater impact with graphics. You could plot a timeline with the date of political embarrassments denoted by a blue bar. The corresponding terror alert would be denoted by an orange bar. To be fair, you'd have to plot ALL the political embarrassments and All the terror alerts. The problem would be defining the threshold for political embarassment.
  24. I know! Donuts!
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