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catbirdseat

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Everything posted by catbirdseat

  1. http://www.ramutasresoles.com Apparently he's not using Stone Gardens as a drop off point anymore, but the three Vertical World gyms are still available. REI used to do it but not anymore. How about Feathered Friends? Do they still ship?
  2. catbirdseat

    blurb

    Meps! Consuming mass quanities, of course!
  3. At the time, I concluded that this thread was about dog fleas, but I wasn't sure.
  4. Has Pope ever been to a Pub Club? I saw Dwayner one time when the moon was blue.
  5. Suffice it to say that this killing had nothing to do with the other incident in which the two women were murdered.
  6. catbirdseat

    Jury duty

    Someone needs to read this thread so he can get out of jury duty and go to Smith this weekend.
  7. Was it really necessary to move the ENTIRE thread to Spray?
  8. Which gym do you frequent?
  9. Selkirk, I suggest that you go climb that route again and then see what you think.
  10. catbirdseat

    ALPINFOX

    You two work well together.
  11. I can understand the motivation, but not the wisdom of it. If you did this, any fall would be a FF 2 fall on a single piece.
  12. Going to Pub Club tomorrow, Wayne? I want to shake your hand. Nice article!
  13. Why would someone do this? That doesn't strike me as a wise thing to do at all.
  14. I would argue that these results are by no means counter intuitive. Low-impact force of rope reduces loading on last point of protection. Static Belay device increases loading on last point. Friction along the chain of protection increases loading on the last point. This is the take home message from the Beal site. Friction from changes of rope angle at carbiners and from rubbing on rock increases the "effective fall factor". Quote are mine. If you restrict movement of the rope, it cannot stretch to absorb the impact. The last segment of the rope has to absorb most of the impact. The best way to think of it is that the true fall factor (or effective FF) is higher than the calculated fall factor.
  15. A round profile would tend to make the sling weaker when used around an object with a small radius compared to a flat profile. I would never use such a sling with anything but a carabiner. No girth hitches. Heat resistance, yes. UV resistance, no. My experience with Kevlar sails is that light breaks them down pretty quickly, about twice as fast as polyester.
  16. I saw this story in the newspaper this morning. I thought it was a interesting read. The guy has hired noted local attorney Steve Berman to represent him. My take is that, while he won't come out of this smelling like a rose, he just might be vindicated. Edwin Wilson Story
  17. I saw an article on a scientific study of hallucinogenic mushrooms just last week. I can't remember where I saw it.
  18. KOMO News Don't know if anyone saw this but there was a missing 19 year old thought to be a murder victim. They had to let the suspected killer go because they couldn't find a body. The related story
  19. Your beer, sez you! I'll run you through you scurvy knave!
  20. Normal! You're calling yourself "normal"?
  21. This is only a theory, but I think that the northern aspect protects this face from weathering. It's the same rock.
  22. 5.9 Theresea's Lingerie 5.10a Sex Party, Crazy Fingers, The Elders 5.10b Thin and Curvy
  23. You could have stopped there. I thought about it, but then, "shit, that would be just a lousy chicken-shit half-pitch, I wanna stretch the rope out".
  24. Come on, Selkirk. The beta for this route is quite good for those who seek it. I had no trouble following the route and finding the good belay spots. My sources of beta were 1) VKramar, 2) Dave Burdick, 3) a couple TR's from this site. I didn't even bother taking a topo on the route.
  25. How did this go? Did it come off? I'll be up for Pub Club on October 24.
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