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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. That could have gone wrong. I thought lobotomies were done in the front of the skull?
  2. You hardcore pups. I remember when I was younger, like ya all, trying a 5.7 crack in Yosemite in a pooring rain and not being able to get off the ground. Anyway, I gave up climbing in the rain unless I have too. I could lead 5.11+ trad then. That was right around the time Derek Hershey came off the Steck-Salathe free soloing. I was there for that event too, and remember that it rained that afternoon. I think it did him in. Course there's some nice incuts for holds at the Butte you don't see in Yosemite so you don't get totally washed off. Maybe you need to show up with tools and a Nolse to get the true alpine flavor. The beer bottles flying overhead can be simulated Alpine rockfall.
  3. You think you got problems? I need a belay tomorrow and no one appears to be heading out. Last time it was raining and Troy and Hugh showed up and climbed anyway. In the rain. Very impressive. Very alpine.
  4. Lurking and lovinit John. Great stuff! Thanks for the montage.
  5. ___________________________________________________________________ Like This? WTF?
  6. Wheres Joseph when you need him?
  7. Wren Soloist
  8. Who wants to sue the park service ? Bet they knew this would happen and didn't do anything about it.
  9. I thought it was suppose to rain Sunday and almost good on Sat?
  10. They don't have any listed and they have not returned my email. Hmmmmmmmmmm No 12" tool for Bill. Might have to sac up and just by a big metal shelf bracket, wrap some duct tape on the handle part and call it a day.
  11. You been climbing at Rocky Butte Jim?
  12. I'll jump on this before Ivan gets out of the mark. Sort of like the gimp on Pulp Fiction then? You bin getting kinky again or sumpin?
  13. Agreed, they copied everything but the name and the quality it appears. It makes you wonder what kind of testing and liability issues they would have if say.....hmmm, that center bar was accidently not heat treated so that instead of Rockwell 48-52 or whatever the hell it should be, it came in at RC38 and failed at 1200 lbs, which, come to think of it, is approx. my lard-assed weight in a 2 foot fall with 5' of rope out. I think I'm gonna by me one of those nut tools though. 12"......., damn, I've always wanted 12". I'm doing it right now.
  14. actually the trick is not to skim but to apply a davincafuckation algorithm to the 3rd letter of each post which derives the Essential Message: "kill your neighbors - kill britney spears - then kill yourself - be sure to get your whole head in front of the shotgun" Holy shit Batman: theres obviously a signifigantly bigger and deeper amount of shit rolling around inside your head than appears at first glance. Dude, you need to writing in your spare time. No kidding. Just use a spell checker once in a while. ____________________________________________________________ Mike: I think it's just a local stream of conciousness kind of thing that Nolse started and perpertrates so that the view count gets higher. I think he must get a free tent or sumptin if the page views exceeds 40,000. _______________________________________________________________ Letter will be out today and lets trim where needed - unless someone says otherwise. My fear is that I piss off the wrong person or low life who then chooses to slice my rope with a knife while I'm on it down below cleaning or dogging (not that I would admit to dogging but I do).
  15. Uhhhhh ........ . Well, you don't feel so bad when you walk out with a new sale rope, a climbing mag and $7 in your pocket by way of exchange eh?
  16. I've never known anyone to climb on the inexpensive - non-name brand cams. People I climb with tend towards Camalots, Metioius and Aliens or Metoius TCUS in the smaller range. The CBS said that the Metolius grip the best, I believe that to be true, but I personally like the expanded range of the Camalot and Maxcams since I get out so rarely it's nice to have the expanded range and be more likely to stick the right cam as you are greasing off the hold while looking at that 20 foot ledgefall. If I climbed more, I'd stick to Metolius only.
  17. True dat: It was a shock to learn that Trask never climbed, but that he would just show up to inflame people on a perpertual troll. I think the site is better now. People can post info without the slamming them for no reason except that it makes them feel good to do it.
  18. Hmmm, they don't seem to have any problem shagging willing western females however.
  19. Joseph and I should be there. I read many reports on CC.com of people going to do some roped soloing laps on Phylynx but have yet to see it. I need to check this out. Curious. Here's one Troy, still a bit muddy but certainly clean enough to climb solo, 30 steps to the East of Phylynx is a new route, 2 shinny chains at the top. Great body movement and feel, abeit still very dirty, and radically easier than Phylynx, crux's off the ground and at the top. Enjoy. (full lenght 60 meter rope mandatory if it's doubled) PS, there is a project 6 feet further east of those chains which has a head sized loose rock 20-30' from the top of it, I'd stay off of that one unless you have a way to dislodge the rock without dropping it on anyone. I somehow missed seeing it until last Saturday. __________________________________________________ CC, when they get done here they can storm the Exit 38 parking area to do a Trotsky on the people breaking into the cars there. Shouldn't this be a topic for the Pirates forum ARRRRRGGGGHH?
  20. Here's the edited letter, it looks signifigantly better IMO. Thank you. Any thoughts from others on NOT sending it? I'm leaning 70-30 to sending it off ______________________________________________________ Dear Mr. Damazio, I have a story I need to share with you which involves an incident on Saturday (May 27th 2006). I often climb on the cliffs at Rocky Butte, right across from the Portland Bible College (PBC). I am very active in the Rocky Butte climbing community and I was involved in a cleanup last month involving two grass roots climbing groups. I have always found students and faculty members of the PBC (and have actually climbed with a couple over the years) outstanding in every manner to be measured. Which gives me pause to (dis)believe students of PBC were involved in my incident on Saturday. It was raining and I had the cliff to myself. I had finished climbing at about 4:30 pm, and was at the base of the cliff gathering my gear when I heard a bottle came off from the top of the cliff and break with a crash on a rock below. Upset that somebody would be so callous as to endanger the life of a person below, I started the hike to the top to confront the person. There was another bottle flung off from the top shortly after I started up. When I got to the top I was surprised to see 5 familiar young men standing under a fir tree near the location where the bottles had been thrown. I had seen them earlier on at least 1, maybe 2 previous occasions drinking at that area at the top of the cliff. They had a 6 pack of beer with them, and a few had bottles in their hands also. I clenched my teeth and stepped up to the group and stated that “they had better not be throwing things off the cliff”. They acted confused and in accented voices asked me to repeat myself. I then asked “Are you throwing things off of the cliff?” one of them then replied in heavily accented English (Russian or Ukrainian) “No, do you think we are crazy like you?” I packed up my gear and left. As I got to my car I realized that not only had there been no other people there other than these young men, but there was NO car anywhere on the road either direction. The young men had walked, in the rain, to stand under the tree to drink. I realized they might be international students from PBC who cannot drink inside of the dorm rooms, so walking over to the cliff and drinking out of sight is a possibility. I had seen them drinking in that area previously. I want to share this with the college for several reasons. Please understand I’m only looking out for the safety of Rocky Butte users. I suspect that drinking (and possibly underage drinking) would be an issue you would be interested in, separate of my serious concerns - IF they in fact are your students. Aside from the glass and litter issue, I fear that there may be a liability issue for the college. The edge of the cliff is slippery with moss and mud. If one of these young men slips off, it would be a very painful and needless death. Second, bottles thrown from the cliff pose a serious hazard to those who use the area. Families, in addition to climbers like myself and others, use the area. Being hit with one of these projectiles would cause serious injury or death, in addition to the unsightliness of broken glass. If these are in fact PBC international students, the college could take several steps to correct this dangerous issue. 1st) Please could share this concern with PBC students and discuss the law on littering and the potential for loss of life should a thrown beer bottle hit a person. 2nd) You could restrict students from accessing the top of the cliff. (I do not think this would be fair to those who just want to wander over for the great view, or want to climb there however) 3rd) You could have a public safety officer occasionally walk the trail at the top of this short section of cliff which basically runs from the guardrail across from the domes to approx across from the dorms. 4th) You could assign students an honor watch to randomly walk the cliff top as well. 5th) Thinning out the underbrush so that drinking and other nefarious activities would be less likely to occur there as the area would be visible, and not hidden like it is currently. I have no direct information that the people responsible for this are affiliated with the PBC. If they are, I hope that you can at least address the issue with your students. If they are not with the PBC, then I thank you for your time and consideration in helping make the area around the PBC a place where everyone can safely visit and enjoy. PBC have been fine stewards of the area and great neighbors. Regards: Bill Coe
  21. You missing any TV's?
  22. You have solid points Fox. It is a city park the college has no control over it. But I'd rather keep the city out of it, pretty much for the reasons you note. Thinning the brush alone would serve to deter the needles, condoms and beer drinking. Might get rid of some poison oak as well. This is perhaps only 30" from the road and then clear line of sight to the college parking lot and dorms. That give you an idea of how dense the brush is. They could go elsewhere to drink if this pile of rubble was visible to the school. Might make it safer for everybody else too I suppose. Who else says no letter, just thinning and a garbage can or 2? It could be that these Russian will head home for good at the end of the term real soon, riling authorities up may be a poor idea. As far as petitioning the city to do the work, doubtful, they rarely trim or spray the grass on the side of the road, and although they mandate to homeowners that they must elimante English Ivy off their property and maintain strick environmental protocals, the city will not touch Ivy or remove it off their property or follow the protocals. Who wants to get into the office pool for how long before a garbage can gets tossed over the top like that last TV and shopping cart did? What are folks thinking of this and how should it be approched?
  23. It was the end of the day and I was soppin wet and beat. My last 2 fights involved about that many dudes. It's why I quit fighting. And carrying knives while drinking. Course if you were there at 6'7" or whatever that is.....top of the cliff, slippery....hmmm. I could see potential. Frankly, I handled it poorly and with bad communication as well. John: I did not see them return to the dorms. PS, couse they were bigger than me, but then, except for malnutrished 3rd graders, who isn't.
  24. I am proposing to send this letter to the president and Dean of International Students at Portland Bible college concening an incident which happened to me Saturday. I'd like feedback from the regulars including gramatical and spelling corrections. Have at it. __________________________________________________ Edited version next post.
  25. I think he would be looking for a larger market than just you and archenemy.
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