billcoe

Go big or go home eh?

Interesting that this thread has MORE Views and MORE posts than the Nodder thread? !

I'm wondering how many of the people replying have even seen the crag in question or been to Oregon (other than 2 trips to smith) at least once in the last 12 months. Dude shows up and asks a valid question and (mostly) gets bashed (with a few notable exceptions).

Damn Mark those are great pictures! Thanks for sharing em. I think I agree with MarkD about A grip here, but will note that I suspect that Danny and Steve (the F. Ascentionists) would probably be good, perhaps even happy, with a bolt. Steve (Strauch) still climbed for years after Danny (Gates) quit. One time I was out climbing with Steve somewhere and he says something like this: "about time someone finally put in a bolt on Golums Hang (N Face Broughtons). He told me that he "was surprised" that the fixed blade he'd driven up there had lasted so long. "How many people have fallen on that and it held over the years do ya think?" he asked me while laughing. (I had no clue). He said he didn't think it would hold his fall, and clearly he was surprised that hundreds more climbed the route sucessfully for many many years and just clipped the pin and went. ON Amphedimine GRip, imagine that FA on runout last 20-25 feet pre-cams, with loose rock all over everything, never been done before, cranked out of your head to the point that your muscles are tweeked (gripped), trying for the top and hoping it goes. Yeowza

Yeah, whuhhh he said, well spoken. ______________________________________________________________ Opps, too late. _______________________________________________________________ That is correct: just double check the F*ken rulebook, page 181 paragraph 5 subsection 2. No - this is artificial arrogance, "pure arrogance" is showing up late for the party and deciding on your own to alter a route to make it easy for yourself because....well, just because you want to do it. Cause then its all about ME MEMEMEMEMEMEMEMEME me!

Rolling stone has "broken" the real truth (maybe) on the JFK assination. CIA with LBJ's knowledge.

I haven't done that route for so long I think I forgot it existed. So I have no opinion. On Karate, I think that is better left as is. It makes you think, especially as a leader, about protecting for the follower. There are precious few of this kind of route over there (Culls in space too), I'd be for leaving it as theres the history of the thing as well, despite the fact that it's a real strange hit follow. There are plenty of straight up routes over there, no need to straighten this one out - my opinion only. But as Kev says, it IS Smith after all:-)

Sac-up ya pussy, just take the sharp pointy awl from yer Swiss Army knife and scrape the holy-bejejusus out from under there, then get a pair of pliers and hank the edges out till it bleeds and you've ripped off the toenail on the outside part so that gives you a week or 2 where the ingrown part doesn't hurt and yer good to go. Least thats what I've been doing. Shouldn't this be in the Pirate forum though?

No worries, this group has all the delicate sensitivities of bricks thrown at a window.

Dean: "Nasty fall there, whuh happen?" Me: "Pulled a loose block off at the top, it slammed down and broke my foot, I'm heading to the hospital". Dean "That sucks (giving some empathy and sympathy all at once), gimme a belay before ya go dude". Me: "Uhhh (at a loss) OK". Later, as I'm walking/hobbling out alone (trying to walk out) with my backpack and rope on my back, I'm thinking WTF?

Dru must have got up to go pee, he missed it.

_______________________________________________________ browser2230 Member #: 13821 Title: stranger Total Posts: 5 Registered on: 11 minutes 42 seconds ago ___________________________________________________________ Kev, I think he's gonna have more posts than you in about 2 hours.

Always with the technicalitees.....sigh..... Update, there were 2 of us at LO (Ujohn and I), so we had the place to ourselves! Laps and laps and laps. I woke up at 4 am from muscle soreness Heres my point, if any of you other pussies really DO ever get out and really climb, vs just yammering on about it (like I do most of the time), AND if you go to LO, then take a drill, a wrench an anchor bolt, a sheep, a bottle of wine and a blow up doll. The center anchor on that little shit hole has had a chunk of rock bust off, and the entire length of that wedge anchor is visible and the whole thing wobbles. It won't pull out just yet, but like a tooth for a kid, it's a matter of time till the good bolt ferrie comes. The other anchor bolt has a loose nut. So clip one and bone voyage suckar. The one bolt looks good, but it should have another one in there. You can climb the few feet over to the "Pope Memorial" bolted anchor above the other "Dwayner Memorial" bolted crack and clip that for redundancy if you are concerned (we were and we did). Bring roundup for the poison oak on top eh? I would do this my self but might not make it out for some time. That and I'm very lazy and self centered.

sure Bill, I'll be there. Me too!

Not as good as the others, but here's something anyway.

They were climbed already Kevin. _______________________________________________________ Kevin, thats an awesome illustration. When the guns to there heads and the pedal should be on the metal, some solid dudes hung on and went the extra mile.

LO will be warmer ....casual .....fun ....less crack whores.

sure Bill, I'll be there. _____________________________________________ Thanks for the visual JH!

I want to hear about the camry/climbing rope shenanigans at some point. Lake Oswego tonight?

Name dropper. But I suspect its a genuine question Kev, and not a troll. I don't think he's thinking of soloing Nameless either....but I've been wrong b4.

Dude, such a tease. Show up and name some names. Do the research, toss your $ into the ring, and let us know who you put $ into will ya. BTW, I don't give any hot stock tips any more, too many of them went south.

Use stainless steel bolts if you have to bolt. Big time etiquette breach to put in shit bolts, either poorly placed, not needed, or cheaped out and used Steel.

If it's a NEW route you are doing, and are truely the first person on it, and all of your ingenuity fails and you can't figure it out, and you can't toprope it to see wassup, then why not? However, be aware that for some out there, they would see unnecessary bolts, even for a FA solo, as a laughable lack of skill displayed in a very public way. In the West side of the NW there is almost always a tree within pissing distance. Smith is (relativly) climbed out but there would be plenty of partners you could grab if you had soething in mind and if it's a new area typically the cracks are still being done. So this is like a pure theoretical question which doesn't make sense.

No and No are the answers. Bet Wallstein could find pro at the base without using the haulbags. What routes are you thinking of? If nothing else, on a route where there is pro 12 feet up, climb up and use that for your anchor. Otherwise, hit the next line over like Dru said.

April 12, 3pm. Vancouver Washington for all you PDXers thats across the river! Bump to top for Erden.