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Everything posted by billcoe
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Damn, I'm bad at math....
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Yeah, me too. totally agree. Stuff costs a lot. Over on rc.NOOB I just got into an arguement with some asswipes who were saying that a guy I know deserved to have his slackline stolen down near Moab just 'cause he left it up. Damn...that's F*ed up. Some dogs are fine, some aren't. I'd be ganked bad on that one, especially if the lil' fu*ker hit my rope too. Probably a Poodle with emotional issues? Damn.
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ANYTHING WORTH SAYING ONCE IS WORTH SAYING TWICE THREE TIMES. I will go find my post and repost it again. It's back two pages. Thank you for asking. My wife says that one of my biggest faults is that I'm an opinionated blowhard who always thinks he's right. I don't have an opinion on that so maybe she's a bit offbase? I think people should leave other people shit alone and we should respect each other. That includes people hanging draws on popular sport routes and thinking it's OK, and generally being inconsiderate. So it's a two way street. If it's a hard overhanging route, and getting your draws down is difficult, then leave them up for a while. People should respect that. Don't leave them up otherwise. Just because the French do it or the hard routes at Smith it's done that way doesn't mean its right. Especially given how pissed some people get about it. A popular SHORT route, pull em. In either case people should leave each others stuff alone. In this case, dude that pulled them is certainly more in the right than the dude who left them. The draws were not "stolen" but offered back/returned and a point was made. How much of an inconvience is it to reclip the route? Will it blow his pinkpoint or whatever the hell he's trying for? Ahhh, good practice to reclip the draws anyway. I tend not to be bothered looking at draws hanging someplace personally. I would have just clipped them had I shown up to do the route. If people leave a rope hanging on a route for TR, I'll ask to use their rope. I always offer mine up before anyone can ask unless I'm finished and heading out. Respect goes both ways. Like people chalking the f* out of the local 5.3 traverse. You get to breath their chalk dust despite the fact that chalk is totally unnecessary when your feet are not higher than 1 foot off the deck on a long, easy traverse. It's disrespectful as hell. This is radically different than chalking a difficult highball that is rarely done, or a hard climb. But people tend not to think of others. People take their dogs to the crags and let them wander. (I have 2 dogs and they are not crag dogs). Dogs piss on packs, eat others lunches, fight with other dogs.....pretty disrespectful of others generally when this happens. My regular climbing partner has a dog, I'm fine with it showing up, and it's unleashed, cause partner has it under good voice control. Plus, if we will be in a crowded place, he tends to leave bandit at home. That's what I think. Respect each other, especailly as it gets more popular and crowded.
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spicy! You have to almost close your eyes to imagine what a C3 bolt ladder is I guess. The story I heard from a longtime dezien is that lots of climbers showed up and rotated hand drilling the star dryvins on the upper pitches. There was a keg of beer on the ground, and people were rotating up and down as they tired or got thirsty. Which may explain why the bolts up high were the first to pull. I guess Dean Caldwell is still around here, Joe ran touched base with him a bit ago: someone should ask him it thats a true story. You could go up and pull some of them in and out with your fingers for years. Course they all got yanked (or pulled out via fingers) and replaced with 3/8" now. Sigh....end of an era, the C3 bolt ladder.
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ANYTHING WORTH SAYING ONCE IS WORTH SAYING TWICE.
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Whoa there. Not that I'm talkin or have any room there, look at my avatar.
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No, he told me "thanks for the reacharound". uhhhhhhhh......isn't the title of the thread "Hot climbing guys...." Hmmmmmmm, nevermind.
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Well welcome to the board eggplant! PS, what were your parents thnking when they named you Eggplant"?? ...nevermind. Take care: Bill
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it's alright, live and learn.
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DINK = Dual Income No Kids. Kev is a DIIK = Dual Income 1 Kid
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And in a bizare twist of sick humor the "Drip" was cumming from the arm and not some other soft senistive unmentionable place.
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Not to leave your crap hanging on a popular sport route is one of the possible lessons.
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Skinnard? KevBone takes requests? Cause Arch has been requesting him to F*K off for sometime and has been ignored. Confusing
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Toooooo friggan funny. Anybody got a moral to this story?
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Angels
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Isn't this now known as the Anna Nicole disease? You get a scratch on the elbow and almost die. Week in intensive care in a hospital. Damn. And from this can we also deduce that climbing is dangerous? You got that scratch hangdogging I'll bet.
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2 heads up: Don't get involved with Mt Tools is my honest opinion. Mountain GEAR is the company which rules. At pain of death don't confuse the 2. ______________________________ As long as we're on the subject, we're talking about 2 radically different products here on the offsets. Brass and Aluminum. Apples and Nuts.
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Yeah, sometimes the strange shit you guys get is embarrasing even to us jaded old f*Ks like moi. Best just let it roll like water off a ducks back, no?
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That is a shame, and IMO a disservice to the aid climbing comunity (if there is such a thing). That bolt ladder use to be spicey and you needed some skills to ascend it safely. Now I assume you could haul, belay, or lower from any bolt on pitch? By the way, the anchors had been replaced a while ago, but the on pitch bolts were not. I wonder why? Laziness. BTW to second what Jim A said about Bubbas anchors being left in situ and maybe drilling a huge single fatty to keep you alive. I think that the same thing could have been done on the West Face. IE, leave the old 1/4 star Dryvins (I guess that the catalyst for the new bolts was that somebody fell and zippered 8 of them out) and put a 3/8" next to them. Sooner or later any new 1/4 bolt would be ripped out. They look like the 1/4 holes were used for the 3/8" replacements, which, when you think about it, is a good thing.
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No. ESPECIALLY true of any climbing pics. I hope that the "Hot climbing chics" thing just gets all the gals juiced up and high on how many of you women climbers are really running around out there getting on stuff.
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Moved to Portland area. Anyone need a belay bitch?
billcoe replied to Ballo's topic in Climber's Board
pdx climbers Some of the locals start (soon) to head out after work to close areas. Assuming you're a nice person and give good belay: join in. Some folks ride bicycles it's that close to the butte. -
Did the Bursitus go away in the hospital?
