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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. Damn staight: all you Seattle folks can get some. Its a short drive. Hightops and the folks at Climbaxe are A++++ too.
  2. and lazy too. Old, fat, stupid and lazy. Lil clarification there.
  3. Yeah, watch yerself dude. You might want to join me on a second ascent of this instead? It's 400' high or so. Less driving yet about as many loose rocks..... the old fatboy in the pic might sober up and be there, but it's deceptive, dude can climb 5.11. I've already been to Twin Peaks when I was younger and stupider than you, it's better when it ices over, doubt it is now. Same with Matterhorn and Sacajewea in that area. You can fire off a north face by slamming tools in perfect Neve, step left 5 feet and pound a pin into perfect granite for pro. Now I am old and stupid and that's too far to drive. And you missed the window. ...
  4. wuuuh parties? you folks been partyin? WFT?
  5. and don't sleep close too the urinal either.... lil friendly advice.....
  6. I use to sleep in the rest room. Well it was warm anyway.
  7. SHHHHHHSH, date night? [font:Arial](I don't really date as I'm married. Please forget I brought that up as I don't need the girlfriend pissed at me[/font]). But I was serious about bringing the crumb-crunchers. Pretty sweet and obvious one you spy it. I'm in and out all weekend, if you find yerself at home....PM me.
  8. PS, and there is more where that came from.....although I'm not sure where that place actually is..............
  9. quote=kevbonequote=pink_chalkquote=kevbonequote=pink_chalk tup tup tup tup : tup : tup : tup : tup : tup : tup : and to one up ya...... rawk: Well, I was going to add that I've already started the weekend and have finished my first 2 glasses of wine, but I can see that it's obvious you 2 are already there:-0) tup tup tup tup : tup : tup : tup : tup : tup : tup : and to one up ya...... rawk: Back at ya AND for NO extra charge, here's another TUP! with some more Helen Keller braille book marks tossed in no extra charge to pee on that particular bush :::::::::::::::: so tup tup tup I'm outofhere
  10. sorry, kidding.
  11. I was working Bunny Face. Aren't ya suppose to leave my draws up there? I was close....soooo close.
  12. Hope so. BTW, it said "stranger" under your name up there. I didn't know ... could it be you are misspelling your name Jeff? Anyway, you've got 4 posts now and will soon be competeing with Kevin E there who has....mmmmmm, wow.... lots. 4780? Must be a misprint...or he must be gettin paid by the hour or the post. I only get a monthly check for this stuff. I was out with Kyle last Feb. Here he is posing on the left with Mike the Loggers chainsaw there with the dawg: Friggan Mike can make that saw hum...damn impressive. Anyway, we only got a single lap up Toothpick before we got burned out. Ujhan brought his Grigri so we could dog it but it wasn't needed as it turned out. Although U did crank the 11a crux and then burnt out on the upper crack and hung (truth in advertising) . Did some laps on Blueberry Jam and that sweet arete to the right to warm up and down as well.
  13. If you really want to learn to climb I would avoid every damn gym in the world and head to the Mazamas for their courses. Beginning, intermediate and advanced. The advanced course is top knotch, 5 stars, beginning gets 1 star and should be avoided if you can help it. Head for intermediate instead. They have great courses, quality well thoughtout instruction and give the full meal deal for less $ than it should be. If you want to just climb in a gym, then I'd just go to the gym for instuction, but the complexities of the outside world can, and most likly will, easily kill ya if all you get is gym instruction.
  14. Well shit dude, why didn't say so. We'll be at toothpick, I'm leaving now see ya at@5:30 OK?
  15. ummmmmmm (sensitive mode) What kinds of stuff do you climb? How long have you been climbing? Have you climbed with anyone on this site previously? ummmmmmm (failing sensitive mode) I don't tend to climb with people till they've been out for a couple of good years.
  16. Leave us with our fantasies Dwayner. "Judge Dredd In a future America crime has become so rampant that the constitution has been suspended. It has been replaced by judges who walk the streets with the power to determine judgement and punishment for crime right on the spot. The judges are judge, jury, and executioner. The judges live by a very stringent code to prevent their misuse of powers. Sylvester Stallone plays Judge Dredd one of the most famous Judges of all time. He is framed for a murder and put on trial. In the past he was a teacher of the Judges. His past pupils help to find evidence of his innocence. One criminal wrecks havock on the streets and acquires an illegal robot killer to aid in his pursuits. The movie ends with Judge Dred being proved innocent but not after much action and adventure. In Judge Dredd, Stallone does not act above the law because as he says "I am the law."
  17. billcoe

    Worst climb

    Fender, this is for sure one of those "your results may vary" things, I like those pitches. I remember someone getting popped by a rock on P1 not long ago and reporting it here, which could happen, but it's not too loose.....and pretty good movement and feel. Thanks CBS!
  18. billcoe

    Worst climb

    Edited to taunt Dru. Hey buddy, you sleeping? Missed the pagetop.
  19. billcoe

    Worst climb

    Some of you are naming some pretty good routes. I think Wedding Day is bolted on good rock for instance? No? Maybe they re-bolted it Kev. I got on a 2,000-3,000 foot thing just free soloing above a Fijord in Norway I didn't think I would get down alive on once. "Dirty and loose" would be a charitable way to describe it. "Young and dumb" would be the description of the climber. Somehow going down was signifigantly more problematical than heading up, which was pretty sporting. The view I thought I'd get did not compensate for the fear I felt, yet through such near misses we all learn. The only true "NAMED" death shitpile I've ever jumped on was a shor tlittle piece os SH*T either later named "The Young and the Worthless", or if not it: it parallels that route. Basically, sometime in the early 80's, Mike Lake led what we thought was "The Young and the Restless" 1st pitch at Smith. He got lost/offroute and brought me up with a little single #3 wired nut as the belay protection. I should have clued in when we were doing the belay signals he yells down "DO NOT FALL". It turned out to be not only the only placement available, and the stance was so poor that his asscheek kept sliding off the rounded bump he kept trying to rest it on so as to not weight the belay nut, but a better piece than anything I got on the second pitch. The 2nd pitch upper cliff turned out not only to be NOT rock, but a unique version of soft vertical mud not seen elsewhere at Smith. I had spyed a crack up high from the alledged belay off to the right, and about 20-25 feet directly above us was a small pinnicale for a runner. So I climb up and put the single runner on a small pinnacle before the @15 foot traverse to the right which was heading to the visible crack and was so off the plumb line that I flipped the runner off to get the rope to run straight, not knowing that runner would have been the only piece potentially able to keep us off the deck if I fell or Mike accidentally pulled on the belay nut and slipped off, thus taking me too: a distinct possibility. I made it to the crack, put in a 1-1/2"-2" friend about as deep as possible, yanked it to give it a pull test and the mud cliff shattered pulling the piece out. I was kick stepping the upper part and getting my rock shoes to crumble vertical mud enough to get footholds in the rock. My best piece (I think I had 2 pieces total I remember including the cam I put back into the now sh*t crack I destroyed and had the sense not to pull test again cause it would have pulled out with a slight tug) was a runner I wrapped around some mud which was clogging the crack right above the cam. It was most likely a FA as there was no evidence of human intrusion before we got there, yet after we were done it looked like a large herd of Buffalo had stampeded through the prarie, with kicked steps up a lot of it. Tied the rope about a big-assed boulder at the top for the belay and damn near kissed the ground. When Mike comes up he says something like "That was interesting". I think I could only respond by saying "Fuck" and was still praying that my heart would start beating normal at some point that it was all I could muster for wit. I'm gonna go see if Mike remembers it this way, he posts on ST as RockerMike if any of you old timers remember him at all: great partner (this story is not indicative of him at all) he's a 5 star partner, this is a negative 5 star route.
  20. Hi Melissa: I like to go on T-Th cause it gives my aching old ass time for muscle recovery between pumps and for the weekend. I am pretty flexible. I can canel or reschedule my wine drinking bouts for other days if M-W- (sorry F is booked: date night wif my lady) is better. _______________________________________________________ I want to show it to you too. It's a 3 tiered full meal deal too, not just one thing. It's supersecret though. It use to be that only I ever jumped on it, and now that number of users is up to approx 30,000 people as near as I can tell, and all but 29,990 of them chalk the hell out of every 5.2 move that is 6" off the ground on it. So don't spoil it by sharing:-) Send me a PM when you are free and have time and I'll give you the full 3 min. tour. For sure the Mr will be beat today. Course you could easily and safetly bring the kids along: it's one of the great things about it.....
  21. Note in support of Vir: As far as Islamists stuffing their views down our throats as replacment for our democratic ideals. Turkey is having that discussion today on a national level. The secularists appear to be winning. Suggesting and supporting that perhaps we have nothing to fear, just as V says. At least till the Taleban shows up acting like the Jesuits of old. Then you will convert, shutup, or suffer.
  22. It is a deep, complex, not easy to understand affair, but think of all the Christians you know. Now reflect on those comparisons 500 years ago and how differently and savagely different views were routinely dealt with. Compare a Catholic to Protastant to a Mormon to a Fundamentalist preacher to get a start for a feeling on how crazy and complex it is for Muslims. Now reflect on Christianity when Catholics were murdering and torturing Jews and Protestants in the 1500s to get a better feel for it for instance. Remember that "in 14 hundred and 92, when Colombus sailed the Ocean blue", it was a remarkably savage time marked by tortures unimaginable today for non-catholics in Spain with the Jesuits running crazy and blood running in the gutters on a mass scale. Then remember and contrast that to Christ's main pitch which was love, tolerance and "turn the other cheek" to get a feel for how off the rails sh*t can head. Same trip for the Muslims.
  23. You are truely and deeply displaying your igonorance of the subject V. I suggest to start correcting this lack of intellect you are displaying, pick up (and read) Dore Golds book about 1 lil' branch of Islamic thought called Wahabbism. Which will explain to you why some Islamic scholars recommend killing others of differing Islamic belief (primarilly the followers of Ali, Shiia's) for being "non-believers and blasphemers" of Islam, which they consider a lower form of life than yourself and others of our ilk.
  24. How about tonight? BTW, small aside, after ribbing JH to bring his harness and not forget it again, I forgot both my harness AND my fri*ggan shoes, reminding me once again to just sit down and STFU! Had some decent laps anyway with Jimmy O, JH and Scheissemi. The shoes weren't sticking too well.... But I have them in the pack today....at least I hope so anyway.
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